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hey guys,

I wanna know what what weak parts to replace on my car ??

How accurate the gauges that shows on my 13 boss ?

my cylinder head temp is between 93-98 degree celcius on cruzing and shoots to to 107 Celcius on wot.

If anyone knows what are the cylinder head temperature limits on these cars, I live in middle east ( really hot summers ) .

thnx in advance
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
Moderator
2,848
14
Connecticut
eng90 said:
hey guys,

I wanna know what what weak parts to replace on my car ??

How accurate the gauges that shows on my 13 boss ?

my cylinder head temp is between 93-98 degree celcius on cruzing and shoots to to 107 Celcius on wot.

If anyone knows what are the cylinder head temperature limits on these cars, I live in middle east ( really hot summers ) .

thnx in advance

You question on the weak links will promote a ton of answers. I'll start the cavalcade, not in any particular order. I will assume you are tracking the car, if not then some of these are less critical

1) Brake Pads - obviously an easy fix. They are OK for the street.
2) Shifter - The real issue is that it's not integral to the MT-82 tranny...
3) Clutch - Maybe OK for the street, if you push the car it's totally inadequate
4) Transmission - jury is still out on this at some level, but just be aware that the 302S/R race cars DO NOT use the MT-82 for a reason.
5) Wiring harness / Crankshaft sensor / Camshaft sensors: Long history CEL problems
6) Cooling: There are upgrades for the radiator, radiator fans and oil cooler. If yoiu track the car in hot environments and at high altitudes cooling will definitely be an issue.

-Pete
 
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ya im planning to track the car, about the transmission what changes are best to avoid all issues.

How about other things like cooling parts ? what parts best to replace plz name them im gonna buy parts on next week to take the week parts out of my car.
 
I think for cooling people swap the grill or at the very least drill out the faux fogs, I went with the Saleen grill which can be found pretty much anywhere mustang parts are sold. Def pads since they don't last long at all on a track day, which you can help them last a bit longer and prevent some fade with brake cooling ducts. I would say the suspension is also a weak point from the factory but that is something you should find out for yourself rather then just replace right off the bat.
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
Moderator
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Brandon302 said:
I think for cooling people swap the grill or at the very least drill out the faux fogs, I went with the Saleen grill which can be found pretty much anywhere mustang parts are sold. Def pads since they don't last long at all on a track day, which you can help them last a bit longer and prevent some fade with brake cooling ducts. I would say the suspension is also a weak point from the factory but that is something you should find out for yourself rather then just replace right off the bat.

He's got a '13 so the grill is fine. Suspension can be upgraded for sure but I think he's looking for points of failure vs. points that could use improvement. At least that was my assumption.
 
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so from what I read , mgw and brake lines with removing the clutch spring ..

what clutch oil and trans oil should be the best ?? I think guyshere talk a lot about redline products and Castrol

Actually am planning in going to track and autocross but more serious on the autocross cuz here we have autocross compititions . suspension mods im thinking about just getting a front swaybar later on since the rear one is upgraded from the factor
 
Welcome to BMO. For your environment I'd make the following changes so your BOSS runs cooler. I'd do these regardless if you track the car or not. Prepping a BOSS for the track is really a separate conversation.

1. Billet style or 13/14 GT500 style grille. The main cooling problem is getting enough air to flow through the radiator and this change will provide the biggest improvement.
2. Run distilled water with water wetter to keep everything lubed properly. I don't think you have to worry about freezing temps. ;)
3. Install an additional oil cooler on top of the stock cooler. There are a few threads there about how to do that.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=6652.0

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=7462.0

While changing the radiator to a larger one, 302S radiator for example, and adding the 13/14 GT500 fan will help, IMO they are not the first steps. If you track your car and are still running hot then I would install these parts.
 
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NFSBOSS said:
Welcome to BMO. For your environment I'd make the following changes so your BOSS runs cooler. I'd do these regardless if you track the car or not. Prepping a BOSS for the track is really a separate conversation.

1. Billet style or 13/14 GT500 style grille. The main cooling problem is getting enough air to flow through the radiator and this change will provide the biggest improvement.
2. Run distilled water with water wetter to keep everything lubed properly. I don't think you have to worry about freezing temps. ;)
3. Install an additional oil cooler on top of the stock cooler. There are a few threads there about how to do that.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=6652.0

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=7462.0

While changing the radiator to a larger one, 302S radiator for example, and adding the 13/14 GT500 fan will help, IMO they are not the first steps. If you track your car and are still running hot then I would install these parts.

Thanks fr ur response sir, how about the cylinder head temp . What is the normal condition limit of these car to be sure that I don't screw things up .

And about the transmission, mgw shifter, clutch line, clutch spring removal will make my transmission flawless ??
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
Moderator
2,848
14
Connecticut
eng90 said:
Thanks fr ur response sir, how about the cylinder head temp . What is the normal condition limit of these car to be sure that I don't screw things up .

And about the transmission, mgw shifter, clutch line, clutch spring removal will make my transmission flawless ??

Flawless ?? ;D

1) A new shifter is usually where drivers go. Some like Barton, others like MGW. I prefer the MGW solution.
2) The clutch line does not need to be replaced, that was a red herring in my mind. Unless you run long tube headers...
3) Not all drivers have the clutch sticking problem. I never did. Others suffered greatly. I'd look in to removing the spring as an option only if you have this issue.
4) Blowfish Racing is coming out with a remote shifter mount that may solve some issues. It's definitly a better solution to mounting the shifter (vs. having it mounted to the body) but since this is a new product it still needs to prove itself in the real world. I have high hopes....

-Pete
 
adding the Whiteline trans mount bushing and urethane engine mounts helped the shifter a lot, but I am still installing the Blowfish shifter mount.

Another biggie I did not see mentioned is brake fluid. The stock is DOT3...even my focus came with DOT4... Also the clutch line needs to be changed to a stainless if you change headers but I would do it for tracking anyways since heat is the real issue behind the reason. I am going to install a Roush grill insert. Similar to the Saleen but I got a deal off Ebay on the Roush for $41!
 
WinterSucks said:
Also the clutch line needs to be changed to a stainless if you change headers but I would do it for tracking anyways since heat is the real issue behind the reason.
I disagree with this and there's no proof that heat in the clutch line causes any of the common issues. In fact when I installed a SS clutch line and MGW shifter my shifting problems were multiplied. There are three issues with the shifting/clutch on our cars. The first is shifter alignment which the Blowfish Racing bracket should resolve. The second is the clutch not fully disengaging which causes shifting lock out at high RPM's. The only fix is a higher quality clutch like the McLeod RST that many of us are using. The only fix for the third issue, clutch pedal sticking, is to remove the helper spring. Everything else is a band-aid fix at best. Save your money and focus on these three issues. No harm in installing the SS clutch line but it won't fix anything.
 
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NFSBOSS said:
I disagree with this and there's no proof that heat in the clutch line causes any of the common issues. In fact when I installed a SS clutch line and MGW shifter my shifting problems were multiplied. There are three issues with the shifting/clutch on our cars. The first is shifter alignment which the Blowfish Racing bracket should resolve. The second is the clutch not fully disengaging which causes shifting lock out at high RPM's. The only fix is a higher quality clutch like the McLeod RST that many of us are using. The only fix for the third issue, clutch pedal sticking, is to remove the helper spring. Everything else is a band-aid fix at best. Save your money and focus on these three issues. No harm in installing the SS clutch line but it won't fix anything.

Not to ignore what is the others opinion but im goin ur way. Now any. Recomendation for which clutch oil and trans oil is recomended ?

Ill be going for a spring removal, ss clutch line and wait for the reviews of the blowfish bracket. Im also doing the whiteline bracket bcuz its cheap im might do change .

Any recomendations for going autocross ?? Im planning on sway bar change and going for toyo r888s
 
I agree with Pete. The weakest link is the clutch and pressure plate. Next I would install the Blowfish racing shifter bracket and then an MGW or FRPP shifter. Cooling would be my next Priority. An all aluminum high capacity racing radiator with the upgraded FRPP fan and then an remote oil cooler. Good Luck. Let us know what you decide and how it is going.
Bill
 
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WinterSucks said:
adding the Whiteline trans mount bushing and urethane engine mounts helped the shifter a lot, but I am still installing the Blowfish shifter mount.

Another biggie I did not see mentioned is brake fluid. The stock is DOT3...even my focus came with DOT4... Also the clutch line needs to be changed to a stainless if you change headers but I would do it for tracking anyways since heat is the real issue behind the reason. I am going to install a Roush grill insert. Similar to the Saleen but I got a deal off Ebay on the Roush for $41!

Yes i do have arh 1 7/8 headers with catted x .

In terms of hp and tq. Is it better to change to 1 3/4 or the 1 7/8 is better performance wise ? Im planning to keep the car n/a ( full boltons)
 
I did not intend to infer that the SS clutch line solved any problem with the clutch or shifting, it just won't melt if you use aftermarket headers. But I figure while tracking it is a liability with how much heat is coming off the stock headers, too. It would give me a warm and fuzzy. IIRC the aftermarket headers are closer to it.

If you visit the site vendors they all sell the right stuff, just different brands (fluids, pads, etc). There is a lot of brand preference but I don't think you can go wrong to start with.
 
eng90 said:
Yes i do have arh 1 7/8 headers with catted x .

In terms of hp and tq. Is it better to change to 1 3/4 or the 1 7/8 is better performance wise ? Im planning to keep the car n/a ( full boltons)

I think if you have one already you might as well stick with it. I don't remember reading about much difference between the two but it probably depends on exactly what you do to it. I would search around using Google to see if anyone has some definitive tests. MFR gain claims might not be the best way, either.
 
If your keeping your motor NA, then they recommend the 1-3/4 headers. It will give you a better torque curve than the larger diameter headers. If you have any aspirations of going FI, then go with the 1 - 7/8 or larger. Good Luck.
 
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wwilde001 said:
If your keeping your motor NA, then they recommend the 1-3/4 headers. It will give you a better torque curve than the larger diameter headers. If you have any aspirations of going FI, then go with the 1 - 7/8 or larger. Good Luck.

Would it be better to keep the car with the normal x or the quad x pipe gives more power for our cars ? , thanks for the info i think ill find a guy who trades me with a 1 3/4 someday.

Kooks is recommended as best right ? I honestly like the arh cuz they are long headers
 
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wwilde001 said:
You can't go wrong with either brand. Both are quality products.

Abd whats the performance difference between the quad and the regular x pipe ?


How about cai, i ddnt get a definite answer for best one .
 

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