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New Short Block WTF!

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So I took the boss in Monday for a code, P050, just an O2 sensor no big deal. When the dealer called yesterday I told them to listen for a slight tick coming from the passenger side of the motor -figured it was a shroud rub or something from a heavy rumble strip excursion, sounded like a minor exhaust leak or lifter noise. So today they called and said it sounds like the #7 cylinder has a wrist pin knock and will need a new short block under warranty - 8700 miles you have to be kidding me? BTW car has been running perfect and I could only hear the noise at idle, so a complete surprise here.

So now would be a good time to address a clutch upgrade I suppose - so anyone with details, your thoughts will be appreciated!

Also on another note, with a new short block won't it no longer be a numbers matching motor - not the end of the world for me as it's a track car but just wondering out loud about that?

Anyway if anyone has gone through the process and have some tips or concerns that I need to keep on my dealer about - please drop a note!

Thanks in advance -Dave
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
I'd not even worry about it since it's being covered under warranty.

Perfect time to go to McLeod RST/RXT, switch out the stock pulse ring for the CJ pulse ring, and maybe replace the slave cylinder.

Also the perfect time to add a road race oil pan like the 10-quart Moroso unit I just put on my fresh build.
 
680
215
Viper,
That sucks. What year is your boss? What dealership is it at ? I would also suggest an oilpan upgrade....
 
That stinks but at least it's covered under warranty. I have a McLeod RXT and if I was going to do it again I'd opt for the RST in hopes that it wouldn't be as grabby.
 
I had a tick also on the passenger side , removed the H pipe and reinstalled,as I suspected it was an exhaust leak at the clamp.There has been a lot of people with a slight engine tick, infact I thought that these engines were known to do this ?
 
I feel your pain. I experienced the very same issue with my 2012 Boss 302 #129 a couple of years ago and had the motor replaced with a new long block under full warranty and have had no further issues. From what I gathered there where known problems with the very early production motors which were subsequently fixed later on in the production run.
 
ArizonaBOSS said:
I'd not even worry about it since it's being covered under warranty.

Perfect time to go to McLeod RST/RXT, switch out the stock pulse ring for the CJ pulse ring, and maybe replace the slave cylinder.

Also the perfect time to add a road race oil pan like the 10-quart Moroso unit I just put on my fresh build.

+1, I would also get a set of TSS Oil pump gears while I was in there. The gears have a tendancy to fail due to shock, harmonics and RPM and seeing as how it is your track car I'm sure you might let it bounce off the rev limiter every now and then instead of down shifting and then upshifting. It would be a good decision IMO.

Good news is that you are getting it replaced under warranty instead of out of pocket which would blow.

NFSBOSS said:
That stinks but at least it's covered under warranty. I have a McLeod RXT and if I was going to do it again I'd opt for the RST in hopes that it wouldn't be as grabby.

Yeah, I think the RXT is a little bit too much clutch unless you are going FI. Even with the projected power that I will be making the RST should still be the better option since the torque is still kind of low.
 
All good tips, and thanks really!
Dealer says oil pump gears and pan may void warranty, so with the low miles I'm going to stick to stock, with the extended warranty I can rack up some serious laps/miles pretty much worry-free.

I may be eyeing something a bit different in the future and the Boss is like money in the bank equity-wize - so maybe something with blue stripes might be cool ;) I like to wait for a second model year run before jumpin on so I'll keep the costs down for now while I burn through some more tires in the Boss.
 
6,394
8,275
Our GS cars have to run the stock oil pump, never been a problem, you may want to call Joe at Phoenix, they've gone dry sump for the PWC cars and have some pans left over that I'm sure they would sell.
 
blacksheep-1 said:
Our GS cars have to run the stock oil pump, never been a problem, you may want to call Joe at Phoenix, they've gone dry sump for the PWC cars and have some pans left over that I'm sure they would sell.

Any pics or info on the dry sump system they or any other PWC cars? If I re-do my motor dry sump would be one hell of a quality add if you can find a way to make it work by lowering the motor and or reducing windage HP losses. Thoughts?

Question on the RST / RXT setup - why go with a drag oriented clutch? I get that a two plate is superior but for RR you want small discs stacked up to reduce energy lost to inertia. RPS carbon twin is 24lbs with everything. even look at a tilton triple or possible. I went budget and for $1100 got the spec 2+ with billet pressure plate and alu flywheel.. 32lbs its the lightest thing out there for that price.

The only fails I've seen on oil pump gears were at the drag strip for some reason road racing does not fail them.
 
I'm sending my RXT and lightened steel FW back to Lee at Mcleod (amazing service btw) who's gonna upgrade me to their "real" road race clutch. The mag force and AL FW. It also has a remote clutch adjuster.
 

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