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New to Boss and Ford

Hello all – Yes I am the proud new owner of ’13 #536, Black LS- I’d like to say thanks to all here on the forum as I researched the *ell out of this car here before pulling the trigger – the knowledge here is vast and spot on!
The Boss has that pucker power I was looking for, it is a blast to drive and sounds like a V8 should – lean and mean – this is one wicked machine! I bought this as my track car and will be frequenting all the NorCal tracks – Sears (Sonoma), Thunderhill, Laguna, Buttonwillow and Willow Springs (Socal) – I may even get out to Miller late spring as well. As for myself I have 50 plus track day events behind me and all in Audi’s – highly tweaked A4 turbo and S4 V8, so I have a bit of experience going forward with the new Boss.
The Boss has about 4k on it now, the previous owner did not activate the track key nor did they install any of the trick oem stuff either- which is great as I’ll get into the car deep putting the brake ducts, trans scoop and splitter on – that’s all good! Oh and I did get all that and a bag of chips with the car including all the original documentation and owners kit – so I am ready to roll – well sort of with a couple of reservations/questions.
I’ve read and searched here on the following topics, but looking to confirm a couple things before starting the track day mod spending spree!
1. The shifter is dodgy at best – doing some high speed, hard shift runs – I have never missed or searched for a gear so many times in any car before. The gate seems tight in pattern but wow is it vague. Also shifts at or near redline result in locked out or stuck in gear transitions – not being a drag racer I wonder how you get through a ¼ mile clean with this shifter. So an upgrade to the shifter (MGW, Steeda etc) seems to be a good mod path but does it really solve the issue – I also notice a ton movement in the transmission/driveline under load - I have seen both a bolt in tubular brace out there as well as a bushing insert designed to stiffen the remote shifter mount so I am wondering if that alone could solve the shifting issue or not?
2. Clutch pedal stuck close to floor a couple of times during high rpm shift events (just pulled it back up with my foot) but I don’t want to go through this on the track – the removal of the helper spring seems to be the right call here – or is this a bigger issue?
3. Track pads – I typically swap out pads and rotors - front – for track days – what’s working out there –I’m used to running Pagid Yellow 19’s on the German stuff but would like to hear the other success stories out there! Oh and I am hard on brakes, just ask StopTech about the guy that warped three sets of their “un-warpable” rotor rings!
4. Brake Fans – anyone running these, seems to me to be a natural fit with the ducting and an easy install as well – would really help during the cool down laps and also in the paddock when coming off track – like I said I am known for going in deep so getting an extra few weekends or more out of pads/rotors is money in the bank.
5. Wheels – who is making an 18” wheel that will clear the brakes, allow for the staggered fitment and doesn’t cost $2000 plus for a set ,– the available rubber in 18” is vast compared to 19 and good rubber is the best mod you can make for the track imo.
6. Track key – went to the dealer to get it flashed in and was told that Ford Racing has to next day air the software out to the dealer (plus $302 for the software and $140 to install)– which seems a bit odd in this digital age – well it’s been 5 days and still nada from Ford – is this the usual process?
Again thanks for everyone’s insight here- you all know your cars well and have a lot more seat time in the Boss than I do – so your experience is what will be guiding me making the right choices to get this Boss sorted!
Thanks! Dave
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,552
2,392
Arizona, USA
Welcome to the party!

My opinions/experience:

1) Shifter will help but not necessarily solve the issue. I have the Steeda Tri-Ax and like it, but most prefer MGW or Barton. Others have used the Whiteline transmission bushing insert (with increased NVH) to compliment the shifter; bottom line is to get an aftermarket clutch if you really want these issues to go away.
2) See #1; remove helper spring first.
3) I am a very big fan of Performance Friction PF01s front, PF97 rear. They can take the temps in race applications. Make sure to get titanium backing plates (D1001 shape) from www.hardbrakes.com if you're going to track the car. I'm already assuming you have high-temp fluid.
4) Haven't tried; IMO these would be more of a flow restriction than assistance at speed, but I have no data either way.
5) Good: Latemodelrestoration.com's SVE Drift in 18x10. Better: Enkei PF01 from Tire Rack in BOSS fitment (9.5 or 10.5 wide). Best: Ford Racing/BBS BOSS 302R wheels (18x10).
6) Something is wrong, contact your dealer as well as Ford Customer Service.
 
Dave, welcome to BMO. You've asked all the right questions. I don't have time now but maybe someone else does to answer them all. Where do you live and where/who did you buy the car from? I'm in Roseville.
 
Hi Rick - I live in the East Bay - Brentwood/Antioch area - I think you must be the guy my very good friend "Gordon" (we served on the Audi Club board together for about 6/7 years) spoke of - he's working with David Ray/HOD, well work may be the wrong word for it!

As for the car, it came from Texas and was quite the experience getting here, but here it is and that's where it will stay!

I am part of the Frequent Driver HOD program so I will be looking forward to running with you guys on the track! - I will want a coach for a bit to help sort out this rwd stuff as the Boss driving style is a bit different than the quattro style!
 
AZBoss - yes on and off quattroworld for many many years - as a BOD for a club mostly focused on track events it wasn't the best place to do much posting about anything other than upcoming events - honestly while there are a number of core track guys/gals there, most are more show n shine, tuners and modders - and their cars never see the track, they talk the talk and smack, but you never see them close to the track except if there's a winery around. Just my two cents of course!

In fact I need to go there and post a few sets of track wheels and tires to sell along with a bunch of other Audi stuff that's taking up valuable space and resources in my garage!
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,552
2,392
Arizona, USA
Viper1mx said:
AZBoss - yes on and off quattroworld for many many years - as a BOD for a club mostly focused on track events it wasn't the best place to do much posting about anything other than upcoming events - honestly while there are a number of core track guys/gals there, most are more show n shine, tuners and modders - and their cars never see the track, they talk the talk and smack, but you never see them close to the track except if there's a winery around. Just my two cents of course!

In fact I need to go there and post a few sets of track wheels and tires to sell along with a bunch of other Audi stuff that's taking up valuable space and resources in my garage!

Do you know a Mr. Danny Keller out that way?
 
Drew's got it pretty well covered here but I'll add a few comments in bold

ArizonaBOSS said:
1) Shifter will help but not necessarily solve the issue. I have the Steeda Tri-Ax and like it, but most prefer MGW or Barton. Others have used the Whiteline transmission bushing insert (with increased NVH) to compliment the shifter; bottom line is to get an aftermarket clutch if you really want these issues to go away.

I have the MGW and it works well but I didn't like it until it was well broken in with a couple of thousand miles on it. But it won't solve the problems you've mentioned. The only known fix for shifting lock-out is an aftermarket clutch. Many of the other "solutions" are band-aid fixes at best and may or may not help. Trust me on this skip everything else and remove the spring and install an aftermarket clutch. Then head to the track. ;D

2) See #1; remove helper spring first.

The helper spring is the only known solution for the sticking pedal. Doing so works well with an aftermarket clutch.


3) I am a very big fan of Performance Friction PF01s front, PF97 rear. They can take the temps in race applications. Make sure to get titanium backing plates (D1001 shape) from www.hardbrakes.com if you're going to track the car. I'm already assuming you have high-temp fluid.

Performance Friction, Hawk, Pagid and Carbotechs are favorites here on BMO. I use Pagid RS29 on the front and RS56's on the rear. Pick what you like and go for it.

4) Haven't tried; IMO these would be more of a flow restriction than assistance at speed, but I have no data either way.

5) Good: Latemodelrestoration.com's SVE Drift in 18x10. Better: Enkei PF01 from Tire Rack in BOSS fitment (9.5 or 10.5 wide). Best: Ford Racing/BBS BOSS 302R wheels (18x10).

I'm working with a vendor that will offer a group buy for the Enkei PF01's with the proper 47mm offset on the 18x10.5 wheels. We should have this posted within a week. If you or anyone is interested send me a PM and make sure you put Enkei Group Buy in the subject line.

6) Something is wrong, contact your dealer as well as Ford Customer Service.
 

Domestic Product

Big fat tires and everything !
Welcome to the club! I think you will be pleasantly surprised at the performance and value of your Boss. Coming from German cars myself (BMWs) . I still am surprised at the lower cost of everything for the Boss compared to German stuff.
50 days of track time under your belt is awesome. My advice drive your Boss on track as Ford gave it to you. I think you will see, suspension and the transmission are the weak points. I fixed my transmission along with brake pads and fluid first then the suspension. The list never ends as in any car you track.
1. Barton (Ford Racing) is in my car. MGW is popular.
2. McLeod twin disk clutch and light weight fly wheel along with pulling the clutch assist spring.
3. Carbo Techs are on my Boss.
4. Not needed with the brake cooling ducts.
5.Vorshalg for D Force and Forgestars, Tire rack for Enkei and LMR for Drifts.
6.Track key just depends on the dealer mine went in with out a hitch.
Keep us posted with your journey into the new ride .
 
The fan wouldn't do much, 12V is too low (RPM for DC motors is related to voltage). Unless you went overboard and got a boost converter to get a higher DC voltage and a good fan. But I doubt it would be worth the hassle, extra weight, and cost.

On the Ti shims, will 2mm be too think with stock Brembos and PFCs? When I took the stock pads off the fronts to put on HP+'s it did not seem like there was much room at all.
 

Tucson 302

2013 Black LS #439
ArizonaBOSS said:
Make sure to get titanium backing plates (D1001 shape) from www.hardbrakes.com if you're going to track the car.

Drew are the vented shimms needed or can I get by with the non-vented? Also, do you only use them on the front calipers?
 
Hey guys, thanks for all the info - really helps getting the straight scoop on this stuff - sounds like I need to wear out a clutch!

And great heads up on the group buy on the wheels -just hope the OZ's are out of my garage before it's over!

Track key install tomorrow - plus that damn rubber bushing on the passenger side exhaust, it was driving me and more the GF nuts! I fixed it in the meantime with a bit of pvc tape, but the forum here let me track the problem down, thanks!
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,552
2,392
Arizona, USA
Tucson302 said:
Drew are the vented shimms needed or can I get by with the non-vented? Also, do you only use them on the front calipers?

I haven't tried the vented ones; the solid ones work great. Only front calipers; although if someone got Hardbrakes to make a set (D1082) for the rear, I would buy a set as well.

0.5mm as mentioned before or you'll have trouble getting them to fit with fresh pads.
 

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