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A long pedal could be caused by overheated fluids. Flush out what you have and run a quality dot 4 fluid. Replace the pads and rotors. Add ducts in that order. Then get out there and have some fun.
I am just starting to get my 2012 Boss 302 LS ready for a track day. I have read about changing the brake fluid to Dot 4. I have a friend that had clutch problems during a track day at Indy. He said it was because he did not change the fluid in the clutch. I have read many posts and it seems most of the people are not going to the trouble of draining the fluid out of the clutch system. Am I reading it correctly? If I change the brake fluid the old fashion way, I do not need to worry about the fluid in the clutch system? No one is reporting problems with the clutch fluid during a track day?
Also I went to the dealer today and got a quote to flush the brake fluid and replace it. Is there any advantage to having it done at the dealer?
 
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TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,530
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Illinois
Flushing brake fluid can be done in your driveway. Buy quality fluid and a bottle to catch the fluid. I bought mine on Amazon. Download a video or two on the process. Enlist someone to pump the brakes and have at it. Be sure to keep the brake reservoir full and you should have zero problems.

I have a separate reservoir for the clutch. I do flush this every year. Since the system does not have a bleeder through which you can drain the fluid. You have to improvise. First remove all fluid with a cheap turkey baster. Add clean fluid then pump the clutch. The fluid may become dirty as the fluid cycles. If so, repeat until the fluid remains clean in the reservoir. This is why I have a separate reservoir. There will likely be dirty fluid on the clutch side, in can run standard brake fluid through the clutch and not cry when I dump a quart on the flush. Good high temp fluids can cost north of $60.00 a liter. With the stock set up, flush the clutch first then flush and bleed the brakes. NEVER ALLOW THE RESERVOIR TO GO DRY.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,427
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Listen to TMS , this is a solid way to handle things. I seemed to have little issue with my clutch fluid in either of my Boss 302s, but I also changed fluids religiously , and followed TMS's recommendation above every time. Bit of a hassle as you do need to improvise , and just make sure mama does not reuse that turkey baster -- really makes the meat oily , though not a bad moisturizer, ha.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Went through several brake fluids... But Castrol SRF is really miles ahead.... Its the "Cheap" alternative since it lasts much longer and performs better then the others... The SRF brake fluid last longer then the rotors on the stock Boss brakes!!!
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
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Not to be argumentative , and you know you are my favorite racer in all of South America, but since the individual talking says he is new to the track ( and am sure many others are since this is the premier Forum for Trackrats ) I must preface that , though , SRF is the benchmark, it should not to be assumed to be good enough to last longer than the rotors! In fact the concern here is some folks may think they do not need to change their fluid as often as they should. Since all fluids will go through heat cycles and depending on the track , the driver, the outside temp, the pad wear, the rotor wear, etc. , one could be changing SRF many times in a season. I am bringing this up, because with new folks, I find blanket statements give them a false sense of security , even though there is no argument SRF is the best brake fluid on the Planet, yet many tracks are brutal on fluids ( Road America comes to mind ). The other major quotient involved is the driver , as braking styles vary immensely and I know I personally go through fluid faster than many of my friends ( I am brutal on pads , rotors, and hence fluids ), so SRF or not , I could never make it till I destroyed the rotors. Just bringing this up since the main focus is viewing your fluid often, change when needed , as it is really one of the items that are in the same safety category as a Hans Device, rollcage, harness belts, etc. in my mind.
 
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Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
I have a friend that had clutch problems during a track day at Indy.

Does your friend have a Boss? There are lots of 'known' problems with the stock Boss clutch and failure to disengage at high RPM (near 7,500) and/or when hot. Symptoms include a soft or sticking to the floor clutch pedal and/or 'lockout' shifting problems.

Suggestions to change to DOT4 and separate clutch reservoirs are all good. So is a vacuum bleed on both. But may not help with the stock clutch issue.

Good luck with your track prep, and welcome to TMO!
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Not to be argumentative , and you know you are my favorite racer in all of South America, but since the individual talking says he is new to the track ( and am sure many others are since this is the premier Forum for Trackrats ) I must preface that , though , SRF is the benchmark, it should not to be assumed to be good enough to last longer than the rotors! In fact the concern here is some folks may think they do not need to change their fluid as often if they should, since all fluids will go through heat cycles and depending on the track , the driver, the outside temp, the pad wear, the rotor wear, etc. , one could be changing SRF many times in a season. I am bringing this up, because with new folks, I find blanket statements give them a false sense of security , and no argument that SRF is the best brake fluid on the Planet, but many tracks are brutal on fluids ( Road America comes to mind ). The other major quotient is the driver , as braking styles vary immensely and I know I go through fluid faster than many of my friends ( I am brutal on pads , rotors, and hence fluids ), so SRF or not , I could never make it through till I destroyed the rotors. Just bringing this up since the main focus is to view your fluid often, change when needed , as it is really one of the items that are in the same safety category as a Hans Device, rollcage, harness belts, etc. in my mind.

As your favorite (and probably only...) nut case racer in South America. I humbly agree with your chastisement!!!!

Its just that the first time out to a timed track event I dinged my car when I boiled my ATE blue brake liquid (for all the rooky reasons you can imagine)..... Since switching to SRF thats in the past... (found new reasons to crash). So when ever some one new heads too the track, I bring up SRF.

But honestly.. One of the big reasons of upgrading to 15" discs, is that I was tired of changing the 14" discs long before changing pads or brake liquid.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
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Heh, remember I know guys like Montoya ( Columbia) , Castroneves ( Brazil ), Kanaan ( Brazil ), Christian Fittipaldi ( Brazil ) , just to name a few and............you are my favorite South American Racer! Heh, maybe I am biased because you wheel a Boss 302 , so sue me!!!??
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,427
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Exp. Type
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Blair, Nebraska
Guess that is why you are the Wide Hatter , er, Mad Hatter, haha!

Well, our favorite racer in Chile ,if you insist, but we all enjoy hearing of your exploits in another part of this Planet.Just like our buddy in Perth, Australia , those crazy Cannucks all over the Provinces of Canada, it is always interesting to see what others are doing tracking their Blue Oval Bosses a and GT(of numerous variations) Beasts!!
 
Does your friend have a Boss? There are lots of 'known' problems with the stock Boss clutch and failure to disengage at high RPM (near 7,500) and/or when hot. Symptoms include a soft or sticking to the floor clutch pedal and/or 'lockout' shifting problems.

Suggestions to change to DOT4 and separate clutch reservoirs are all good. So is a vacuum bleed on both. But may not help with the stock clutch issue.

Good luck with your track prep, and welcome to TMO!
Yes my friend has a 2013 Boss 302 LS, stock clutch. When it got hot to would not shift.
Do you have a separate clutch reservoir?
Do you use the Dot 4 in the clutch reservoir?
Have you ever run with the stock reservoir and did it work ok?
Do you use Motorcraft PM-21 fluid? If not then what have you had good luck with?
I have an extra set of LS rims do you have suggestion on tires? Stock tires are very $$.
I would like to keep it as stock as possible due to car shows I attend.
Sorry for all the questions, just do not want to screw up.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Yes my friend has a 2013 Boss 302 LS, stock clutch. When it got hot to would not shift.
That sounds like one of the typical symptoms. He should change his clutch before the problem gets worse.
Do you have a separate clutch reservoir?
No for both cars.
Do you use the Dot 4 in the clutch reservoir?
I would if I had separate reservoirs.
Have you ever run with the stock reservoir and did it work ok?
Yes on both cars. I use the turkey baster method to keep the reservoir fluid clean and clear. Make sure all the DOT3 is flushed out. Have an extra bottle or 2 on hand for the first flush.
Do you use Motorcraft PM-21 fluid? If not then what have you had good luck with?
No on the Motorcraft. I use Motul RBF600.
I have an extra set of LS rims do you have suggestion on tires? Stock tires are very $$.
I would like to keep it as stock as possible due to car shows I attend.
There aren't a lot of 'great' track tires in the exact stock sizes.
Not much cheaper than the OEM Corsas on your LS, but I'd choose these two for stock sizes:
MICHELIN PILOT SPORT 4SCONTINENTAL EXTREMECONTACT SPORT

Lots of other brand options if you go to slightly different sizes.

Sorry for all the questions, just do not want to screw up.
No apologies! That's what the forum is for!
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,427
8,357
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
The Michelin is a good choice for street and occasional track , but I would definitely stay away from the Corsas. When they started chunking out for many drivers the comment was this happened to the tire because it was designed for the BMW M3, and Ford wanted to use the same tire to prove the Boss's superiority on track. Well, the same thing happens to Viper TA models ( Corsa was OEM for this model Snake) , and with personal experience with both vehicles I would suggest you do not consider that Pirelli.
 
That sounds like one of the typical symptoms. He should change his clutch before the problem gets worse.

No for both cars.

I would if I had separate reservoirs.

Yes on both cars. I use the turkey baster method to keep the reservoir fluid clean and clear. Make sure all the DOT3 is flushed out. Have an extra bottle or 2 on hand for the first flush.

No on the Motorcraft. I use Motul RBF600.

There aren't a lot of 'great' track tires in the exact stock sizes.
Not much cheaper than the OEM Corsas on your LS, but I'd choose these two for stock sizes:
MICHELIN PILOT SPORT 4SCONTINENTAL EXTREMECONTACT SPORT

Lots of other brand options if you go to slightly different sizes.


No apologies! That's what the forum is for!
Thanks, this will get me going. More questions later I am sure.Boss.JPG
 

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