Newbie's questions on gearing

[Sesshomurai]

No and neither did the dealer. Ford instructed the dealer to pull my clutch and inspect it, which they did, and they didn't find anything and put it back together with the stock parts.

Mechanically speaking there's only a few things it could be I would think. What comes to mind:

1) Fluid boil
2) Plastic line expansion
3) Fluid/Pressure loss
4) MC failure
5) Sticky clutch plate
6) Excessive air in the fluid (perhaps because of #1)

I hope you find the culprit. I hate the thought of unknown gremlins lurking in the car.

 

[Zquez]

Mechanically speaking there's only a few things it could be I would think. What comes to mind:

1) Fluid boil
2) Plastic line expansion
3) Fluid/Pressure loss
4) MC failure
5) Sticky clutch plate
6) Excessive air in the fluid (perhaps because of #1)

I hope you find the culprit. I hate the thought of unknown gremlins lurking in the car.

Have to agree with this. While the line won't expand anymore with SS, the line can arguably get hotter and retain the heat versus the stock line. Perhaps you may want to wrap the line with some heat reflective material. I have sheathed mine with DEI Heat Sheath. Even when my car was having shifting issues at the track, I never had anything like that happen. Hopefully you can get it fixed.

 

[milestogo]

Cool.

Anyhow, if you intend to take it to the strip and do decide to upgrade to a T-56, then, yeah, you will probably want at least 4:10's in the rear.

As you are probably aware, Truetracs may suffer from the same "weakness" as most other helical gear limited slips. I believe it is a torque biasing diff like the Torsen and I don't think it will hook up at the strip as well as other limited slip designs. Might be something to consider.

There seems to be a pretty strong general consensus that the True-Trac is the strongest limited slip differential for moderate drag racing and the Torsen T2R is not up to the task. For heavy drag racing <11.49 folks seem to go with an automatic locker like the Detroit Locker with the disadvantage of poorer street drivability. Or for advanced drag racing a spool which would render it useless for the street. Another option is the selectable locker like an Auburn ECTED but I haven't seen enough proven usage to accept this choice.

I think the Eaton True-Trac gives me a good balance for what I want but everything is a compromise.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Mechanically speaking there's only a few things it could be I would think. What comes to mind:

1) Fluid boil
2) Plastic line expansion
3) Fluid/Pressure loss
4) MC failure
5) Sticky clutch plate
6) Excessive air in the fluid (perhaps because of #1)

I hope you find the culprit. I hate the thought of unknown gremlins lurking in the car.

You forgot slave cylinder failure which has happened in a few other cars. While I think it's a combination of heat/slave cylinder/clutch plate I think the biggest issue is the clutch plate. The fingers don't appear to have enough tension at high RPM's which causes the clutch to not fully disengage, causing shifting lock-out. It's much easier to get the car out of gear into neutral with the clutch not fully disengaging than it is to get it into gear. And the fingers lack of tension allows the clutch to stick to the floor. Seems to be more a QC issue on the Turkish made clutch as not everyone has this issue.

 

[NewBossowner]

Way to hijack the OP's thread guys. Well done.

 

[milestogo]

Way to hijack the OP's thread guys. Well done.

No worries. Tomorrow, I pick up my Steeda "serialized" Leguna Seca. I am putting the drivetrain decision off for a little while. In the mean time, Kooks LTs and catted H pipes are on order (I will delete the side pipes). The more I learn, the more I think I am going to put the drive train decision off until the car is broken in and I've had more time to experience the car and think it through. The decision I have left on the drivetrain is weather to stick with the MT-82 or go with the t-56. The clutch, driveshaft, and diff will be changed regardless. Now who wants all my leftover parts

 

[Zquez]

Seems like a good decision to me. I may be interested in the diff if I can scrounge up enough money after I sort out my fuel system gremlins. lol

 

[smittytx]

Way to hijack the OP's thread guys. Well done.

Did you hear they are going to make Star Wars episode 7?

 

[Zquez]

Did you hear they are going to make Star Wars episode 7?

Really? Is it gonna have the old cast?

 

[Grant 302]

Really? Is it gonna have the old cast?

That's just gross.

 

[seca954]

There seems to be a pretty strong general consensus that the True-Trac is the strongest limited slip differential for moderate drag racing and the Torsen T2R is not up to the task. For heavy drag racing <11.49 folks seem to go with an automatic locker like the Detroit Locker with the disadvantage of poorer street drivability. Or for advanced drag racing a spool which would render it useless for the street. Another option is the selectable locker like an Auburn ECTED but I haven't seen enough proven usage to accept this choice.

I think the Eaton True-Trac gives me a good balance for what I want but everything is a compromise.

FYI I broke a Detroit Locker and an Auburn Pro in a much lighter mustang making the same power as the Boss. Both times the ring gear and pinion had to be replaced as well. Ironically, I never had any problems with the original ford unit or the basic Auburn. I just got freaked out by everybody telling me to replace them before I broke them. My advice is to Run em til you break em! The only thing that fixed breakage was a 33 spline spool. You sound like me, in that you bought a Boss but you love to drag race. Don't ruin your car by turning it into a drag car. You'd be better off with a GT if that's your goal.

I would love to intall a set of 4:56 gear and 28" slicks for a weekend just to see what the car would run bouncing off the rev limiter. If you did that and it broke, you could just drop it off to the dealer and tell them to fix it under warranty.

 

[2012-Boss]

Back to the OP's question on gearing. I would keep the MT-82 unless you have a problem. If you do swap transmissions, you need to decide if you are a drag racer or road racer.

If you are a drag racer, you will need additional gearing to get you out of the hole. Either a 4.10 or probably a 4.56.

If you are a road racer, go with the close ration and keep the 3.73 rear end gear. Just run a gear lower - its close enough to stock that you might not notice a difference. In other words, where you run gears 3-5 in the MT-82, run 2-4 in the magnum. If that does not work for you, then think about a steeper gear. Just keep in mind that a steeper gear might require a cooler....

Hope this helps.

 

[Justin]

You forgot slave cylinder failure which has happened in a few other cars. While I think it's a combination of heat/slave cylinder/clutch plate I think the biggest issue is the clutch plate. The fingers don't appear to have enough tension at high RPM's which causes the clutch to not fully disengage, causing shifting lock-out. It's much easier to get the car out of gear into neutral with the clutch not fully disengaging than it is to get it into gear. And the fingers lack of tension allows the clutch to stick to the floor. Seems to be more a QC issue on the Turkish made clutch as not everyone has this issue.

I tried all the band-aid fixes:
new SS clutch line
removing the assist spring
bleeding the system
nothing really helped with the clutch sticking to the floor at high rpm shifts until I installed the centerforce DYAD clutch. hasnt done it to me since and I shift at 8200 now. I just wish the clutch was quieter with it pushed in but I will gladly trade the noise for a properly working clutch that shifts like butter at 8200.

As for the trans swap I plan to go with the T-56 XL in the future if the stock on eever breaks or I start making big power with the aid of forced induction. For now I think the MT-82 is perfect at NA power levels.

 

[milestogo]

I decided on the more balanced approach and will be keeping the MT82. I ordered an upgraded ss clutch line, Mcleod RXT clutch, aluminum one piece DS and a wavetrac differential. I won't turn this into a dedicated drag car but this set of upgrades should enhance the race capabilities while allowing light dragging (greater than 11.49, less than 12.5).

Great experience here - thanks.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Please update us after the clutch is installed.

 

[Sesshomurai]

As for the trans swap I plan to go with the T-56 XL in the future if the stock on eever breaks or I start making big power with the aid of forced induction. For now I think the MT-82 is perfect at NA power levels.

This is my plan as well. I will still upgrade the clutch and am deciding between the mcleod mag force[1] twin disc or the exedy ET04XD[2]. I already got the clutch line and DS upgraded.

[1] http://www.mcleodracing.com/products/Mag+Force+Strap+Drive.mcl
[2] http://www.rehagenracingproducts.com/2011-2013-50L-Mustang-Twin-Plate-Clutch-Kit-ET04XD.htm

 

[2012YellowBoss]

I am going to put a clutch in soon. Still up in the air about swapping the trans out. While the T56 seems to be a better option, I doubt I will break the MT82 if I can get the car to shift and not grind into gear. I really want to do the swap but I would be throwing away all I have spent for the MT82, like the one piece driveshaft and MGW shifter.

If I was able to get some extra MPH out of the swap I would get the T56 in a heartbeat but running the Conti take-offs really drop off the MPH at 7500 RPMs with the 3.73 gears. If I do swap it leaves me about the same but a ligher wallet. I lose in second, gain a few in third and fourth is the same with the T56.

MT82 3.73 gears 1st 40.88 2nd 61.57 3rd 88.53 4th 113.34 5th 149.61
T56 3.73 gears ................ 1st 56.24 2nd 84.05 3rd 115.08 4th 149.61 5th 187.01

Since I am running the slicks and plan to in the future I am thinking of keeping the MT82 with a new clutch and using the 3.55 gear. That would give me:

2nd 64.69 3rd 93.01 4th 120.0 5th 157.19 if I do the T56 it leaves me about the same
.............. 2nd 88.31 3rd 120.92 4th 157.19 5th 196.49 The good point of the T56 here is the first OD gear is only .80 vs. the .65 on the MT82 so at Daytona you could still pull in that gear.

My logic behind this gear swap is the fast tracks here, I know many people don't agree with a shorter gear. At Sebring I hit 140 between 16 and 17. 130 between 17 and 1, 130 before the hairpin, 125 before turn 10, 95 between 10 and 13 and I could do 120 in Bishops Bend - right now I max out at 114 and don't want to shift in there. So swapping to the T56 does me no good besides saving the over and up shift to fifth, however if I don't have lockout with a new clutch it would not be so bad.

Having the few extra MPH will also help with three short straights at PBIR and the 150 vs. 157 would help times at Daytona.

It is a lot to think about ....

Any thoughts?

 

[VoodooBoss]

As we've discussed I think the clutch is the root of most issues. Regardless you're about to find out. ;D I know the 3.73 gears are real popular but when I was thinking of buying a 5.0 GT before the Boss was announced I was leaning towards the 3.55 for similar reasons. Good luck with the new clutch.

 

[Zquez]

I would HIGHLY recommend some prothane or similar motor mounts for any shifting issues you're having. I put the lethal performance adjustable mounts on my TR6060 and it made the largest improvement in shifting quality out of all my shifting mods. Plus I lowered the engine 3/4" for improved CG.

 

[2012YellowBoss]

I would HIGHLY recommend some prothane or similar motor mounts for any shifting issues you're having. I put the lethal performance adjustable mounts on my TR6060 and it made the largest improvement in shifting quality out of all my shifting mods. Plus I lowered the engine 3/4" for improved CG.

There are waiting to go on. I hope they give me a little relief with 4-5 shifts but in the long run they can do nothing when the clutch pedal is sitting on the floor.