NITTO NT01 vs HOOSIER R7

[lakeside]

Has anybody used these back to back or had experience with them on the same car? Ultimate grip and track day life?

 

[Fabman]

I think you’ll find the Hoosiers way toward the grip side and nittos way toward the long lasting side. There is a big difference between the two. What you end up using will be determined by what you want out of them. If you are new to track days I would personally steer you away from the Hoosiers as the cost will get old very fast and going to less grippy tires after the Hoosiers will be frustrating. But that’s just one guys opinion.


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[ArizonaBOSS]

R7 will be 1-2 seconds faster in the same sizes, but also notably more expensive.

R7 longevity is much better than previous R6 compound. Can get 15-18 cycles out of R7s with regular rotation and flipping.
Expect similar (if not better) wear from NT01 (although NT01 will be more forgiving if not rotating regularly).

Overall I would say the NT01 is the best value in track tires, but the Hoosiers are the fastest of the "regularly available" competition compounds.

 

[lakeside]

Thanks for the input, we played at the WTW Racing game for 40 yrs and have experienced the Tire Crack Addict affliction first hand. Use to run Goodyear radial slicks in the early 90’s. I also know that there will always be someone with more talent to make me look bad no matter what tire I end up with. I think what I’m looking for is a tire that’s competent that won’t be down to the cords after 2 weekends. Also not use to driving these heavy beasts and very very thankful for ABS

 

[Fabman]

Thanks for the input, we played at the WTW Racing game for 40 yrs and have experienced the Tire Crack Addict affliction first hand. Use to run Goodyear radial slicks in the early 90’s. I also know that there will always be someone with more talent to make me look bad no matter what tire I end up with. I think what I’m looking for is a tire that’s competent that won’t be down to the cords after 2 weekends. Also not use to driving these heavy beasts and very very thankful for ABS

Sounds like we come from a similar place. I’ve found these cars to be a lot more work to drive and tune than a tube frame stock car, not to mention more expensive. But hey, it’s a new challenge and that’s the fun of it right? Lots of smart guys here, I trust you’ll get all good answers to your questions.


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[ArizonaBOSS]

Thanks for the input, we played at the WTW Racing game for 40 yrs and have experienced the Tire Crack Addict affliction first hand. Use to run Goodyear radial slicks in the early 90’s. I also know that there will always be someone with more talent to make me look bad no matter what tire I end up with. I think what I’m looking for is a tire that’s competent that won’t be down to the cords after 2 weekends. Also not use to driving these heavy beasts and very very thankful for ABS

Based on that experience and concern, I would probably advise starting on the NT01, then when you are comfortable with that, move up to the R7. Then if you are really mental, try the A7s (wallet be damned!).

The R7 and A7 will be much more susceptible to wear depending on your alignment settings.

 

[Black Boss]

+1 on Drew's comparison. NT01's will certainly last longer and are cheaper. Beware of getting the rears too hot. Anything above about 37 psi and they get very greasy, with little or no warning.

 

[Swiss Boss]

You can also always buy scrubs if you're only doing HPDE.

I paid 580$ shipped for the last set of 4 315R7 and they last about 3 days (~7-8h)

 

[lakeside]

Well tires have always been the slippery slope whether you're WTW or HPDE, Good news is I've reached the age where I realize that we're just men playing with toys and F1 teams are probably not looking at me anymore (think I once qualified for senior tire warmer applicator). I truly appreciate bench racing at a watering hole after a day on the track as much as a good 4 wheel drift, feeding into that perfect line going into the long straight. Went to 3 events after finishing the car this year and didn't really see any clear consensus on tire choice, but you also tend to hear more opinions the better you get to know people.

 

[mnmike59]

Beware of getting the rears too hot. Anything above about 37 psi and they get very greasy, with little or no warning.

^ This, Ask me how I know.

 

[lakeside]

What size NT01's are you guys running? Starting pressures? Seems like most of the DOT style tires always wanted to be in the low 40's after they were hot, this 37psi is kinda new to me

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

What size NT01's are you guys running? Starting pressures? Seems like most of the DOT style tires always wanted to be in the low 40's after they were hot, this 37psi is kinda new to me

30-32 cold, IMO.

 

[Black Boss]

+1

I ran 275/35R18 up front and 305/35R18 rear 0n 9.5/10.5" rims early on. That would be too much stagger with my current set-up (esp. The Watts link) and with the current 10.5/11" wheels I'd go 305 square.

 

[lakeside]

+1

I ran 275/35R18 up front and 305/35R18 rear 0n 9.5/10.5" rims early on. That would be too much stagger with my current set-up (esp. The Watts link) and with the current 10.5/11" wheels I'd go 305 square.

I'm guessing that you're talking about front/rear stagger, how is that affecting your Watts Link?

 

[Black Boss]

I ran the staggered set up prior to adding the Watts link. The Watts link added a lot of rear grip, so much so that I had to go Full soft on the front sway bar (even running a square tire set-up) to balance the car out. My guess is that with significant stagger and a Watts link, you'd have trouble getting enough front grip to balance the car. Without a Watts link it was fine running staggered.

 

[tomsgarage]

Hey Jay! I have the NTO1 on my car with the same stagger as above 275/35R18 up front and 305/35R18 rear 0n 9.5/10.5" rims and like them! I can get two years out of them running 4-5 events per year, fun tire, wears well and fits my budget....of course my suspension is stock....for now....

 

[lakeside]

Hey Tom,was hoping to hear from you. So I’ve got a line on some nice 18x10 3pc forged wheels and I’m thinking about a 305-35 Square setup. I have coil overs and Fays2 Watts Link, very new to this car. Got the brakes issues figured out with James Rays help using his G Loc setup. Ran the car the first few times on some NITTO Invos that I had and it plowed like a John Deere (literally was in the turf a couple times) but, probably because of the understeer the car felt very stable. Thoughts on the wheel/ tire set up ?

 

[VoodooBoss]

You really want a 10.5 or 11" wide wheel for a 305. Check the APEX wheels by clicking on the link to the right.

 

[lakeside]

Rick, I don’t have any problem finding great wheel like the ones Apex sells,I’ve been lusting after those beauty’s since I joined this forum. The wheels I’m looking at cost $100 bucks each as opposed to $400 each. I’m trying to stay away from the slippery slope of spendology and every time I hold up my fingers to see the difference between 10 and 11 inches and the difference between $400 and $1200, I break into a cold sweat. One last thing also, they’re 3 lbs lighter than the Apex.

 

[VoodooBoss]

I completely understand. Regardless many of us took multiple steps to get to the end setup. It’s much cheaper in the long run to go straight to the best proven setup first. Ask me how I know.