No Brake Pedal

[Corral Man]

Well; purchased a new master cylinder, should be here Friday. Any thoughts on why bleeding the ABS module isn't an available option for me in ForScan? I only used it once before, when I swapped my guage cluster a year or so ago... maybe i need to update it?

Thanks again, for all of the help!

Can you take some screen grabs from ForScan when you are in the ABS module?

 

[Lee Sorrell]

Can you take some screen grabs from ForScan when you are in the ABS module?

Sure thing, thank you! Although; I may be doing it wrong, based on your question... after connecting to the car, I go to the wrench icon. From there, I choose from the available list and initiate (hit the"play" button). Is there a way to get farther into the ABS module?

 

[Corral Man]

OK, I made a little video. Hopefully it will help you.

 

[Lee Sorrell]

OK, I made a little video. Hopefully it will help you.

OK, that is reassuring. That is the same process I have been following. I wasn't able to take any screen-capture this morning, my laptop's battery died before I had the chance... literally, it will no longer take a charge.

Anyways, same story as before. I had the option to reset the ABS module, but that is it. I did see that the ABS module has DTC codes: b11e8 & c1b00... (I didn't capture the last of the C1B... code, that is when the laptop crapped out). I am not sure how to proceed, my code scanner didn't show any codes (not that I expected it to) and so far, my internet searches have been unsuccessful.

I am going to buy a new laptop, today. I will try to get some screen grabs after that is sorted. Any thoughts on these DTCs?

 

[blacksheep-1]

It just seems odd that the master cylinder would happen to give up all of a sudden at this point. Do any of you pull a vacuum on the master cylinder and bleed it that way?
Pop the master cylinder lid off, and use a vacuum pump on it.

 

[OX1]

It just seems odd that the master cylinder would happen to give up all of a sudden at this point. Do any of you pull a vacuum on the master cylinder and bleed it that way?
Pop the master cylinder lid off, and use a vacuum pump on it.

That was my feeling when I had a nightmare time getting mine bled.
I bought a new stock master and even tried an S550 PP master. I have hated the long
travel spongy brakes since the day it was new, and Brembos made it at least a little worse. But
I can surmise that too little travel might not be great for a road course, maybe harder to modulate,
but I'm a newb, so who knows. I know I hate long travel brakes on the street.

I did find a rubber disk that goes in front of booster push rod, which I thought was odd to put
there, with how you are trying to transmit quite a bit of force. Suspect it's for NVH.





Now that I have my brakes bled, it would be interesting to pull that rubber disk out and put back adjustable booster rod I had to make
for S550 swap, to see if it gets a little less spongy.



The orig master had nothing wrong with it though (I pulled it apart and checked, looked like brand new inside
and seals were not damaged) and I never did get it bled right with the S550 master (nothing wrong with that master
either, but I pulled it off when I couldn't get system to bleed, with that one either).

I've heard that's how some manufacturers bleed that way, on the line, so they don't waste any brake fluid bleeding.
I tried it using an old AC vac pump and a virtually empty system, just to see if it works. It does, but leaves some air in the calipers.

Started at this level



Ended here



Vid

http://luxjo.supermotors.net/MUSTANG%20GT/BRAKES/BRAKE%20BLEEDING/20181003_165456.mp4

 

[Lee Sorrell]

Well... the MC didn't arrive in time for me to install this weekend, but still wanting to wrench; I bled the system again and took it to a long dirt road. I did 5 or 6 hard stops from ~10mph to trigger the ABS system (had to pump the brakes up, to build enough pressure). Took it home, bled the system and reset the ABS module. All seems good

I'm going to bleed the system again this weekend, but am cautiously optimistic! I still need to chase down the DTCs in the ABS system though. Before starting this project, I remember one time the traction control lights came on and the button had no effect on this. A few minutes later everything was fine and I put it on the bottom of the "to-do" list. I want to remedy this before I wire in the line- lock, hopefully I will find something obvious while I am bleeding the system again.

 

[blacksheep-1]

OX1, when I changed the clutch in my GT500, I used a hand vacuum pump. I took a rubber stopper, drilled a hole in it, put a piece of copper tubing through it the same size as the tubing on the hand vac pump. I pumped it up then repeated the procedure and it was done. On the Shelby the clutch and brakes use the same reservoir so you bleed both at once

 

[JAJ]

Well... the MC didn't arrive in time for me to install this weekend, but still wanting to wrench; I bled the system again and took it to a long dirt road. I did 5 or 6 hard stops from ~10mph to trigger the ABS system (had to pump the brakes up, to build enough pressure). Took it home, bled the system and reset the ABS module. All seems good

I'm going to bleed the system again this weekend, but am cautiously optimistic! I still need to chase down the DTCs in the ABS system though. Before starting this project, I remember one time the traction control lights came on and the button had no effect on this. A few minutes later everything was fine and I put it on the bottom of the "to-do" list. I want to remedy this before I wire in the line- lock, hopefully I will find something obvious while I am bleeding the system again.

I couldn't find those codes in my service manual, although they might be available in the online Motorcraft Service system. What I did see was that the codes I did find in the B11E and C1B series were all power supply codes - incorrect voltage, short to ground, that sort of thing. I suspect that if you get things running you can clear them and they won't come back.