Non-Warranty Voiding Mods?

[7500RPM_Ben]

Hey guys, are there any non-warranty voiding mods I could do to my Boss? The MGW is out and probably a clutch, I cannot have a tune :-\, and that means no major bolt-on's. I know I can do intake and TB, there is a thread on that and it is great yet expensive. Can I do a mid-pipe with side-pipes like the Kook's piece?

I am trying to cure my mod bug .

 

[VoodooBoss]

The MGW shouldn't void your warranty, it didn't mine, but ask your dealer first if you're concerned about it.

 

[k98dave]

You didn't say what you want to do with the car, road coarse or drag race) but you can go with Ford Racing mods like suspension, springs, control arms, brake cooling kits etc. Plenty of info on this site on all that. 8)

 

[TMSBOSS]

A mod by it self will not void a warranty. If Ford can show a mod caused a failure, the warranty will not cover the repair.

A mod has to be the cause or contribute to failure for a wareNty claim to be void.

What are you wanting out of your car?

 

[noldevin]

Stay away from engine mods and tunes and you should be fine, as long as whatever you've added can't directly contribute to the problem you wan't warrantied.

I brought my car in for 3.73 gear whine. Car is lowered with springs, shocks and struts, bmr control arms and panhard...
They didn't care, got a new torsen diff and 3.73 gear set under warranty.

 

[7500RPM_Ben]

The MGW shouldn't void your warranty, it didn't mine, but ask your dealer first if you're concerned about it.

I heard that if the transmission failed, the dealership will blame the shifter.

You didn't say what you want to do with the car, road coarse or drag race) but you can go with Ford Racing mods like suspension, springs, control arms, brake cooling kits etc. Plenty of info on this site on all that. 8)

I am looking to mod for a fun weekend car and more bulletproof, I also would like to make or put more power to the ground. I do not want to do suspension work while I am stationed in Shreveport, LA, the roads are not great at all. If I lived back home I would order Cortex parts after the warranty expired, I do not think I would want to purchase FRPP parts I would want to replace after the warranty expires.

A mod by it self will not void a warranty. If Ford can show a mod caused a failure, the warranty will not cover the repair.

A mod has to be the cause or contribute to failure for a wareNty claim to be void.

What are you wanting out of your car?

Ok awesome, a clutch, flywheel, an Aluminum or CF DS would be great then! I want a reliable and fun weekend/fair weather driver. I either want to be able to make more power, or be efficient enough through weight lost from rotational mass to lay down more power to the pavement.

Stay away from engine mods and tunes and you should be fine, as long as whatever you've added can't directly contribute to the problem you wan't warrantied.

I brought my car in for 3.73 gear whine. Car is lowered with springs, shocks and struts, bmr control arms and panhard...
They didn't care, got a new torsen diff and 3.73 gear set under warranty.

Ok cool, I will stay away from those then and definitely the tuner, I know the Ford IDS will know if a tune has been in the car. I may do some suspension mods here and there maybe, the roads here are really not good for anything lowered or with a stiff suspension.

Thank you guys for the replies!

 

[noldevin]

I heard that if the transmission failed, the dealership will blame the shifter.
I am looking to mod for a fun weekend car and more bulletproof, I also would like to make or put more power to the ground. I do not want to do suspension work while I am stationed in Shreveport, LA, the roads are not great at all. If I lived back home I would order Cortex parts after the warranty expired, I do not think I would want to purchase FRPP parts I would want to replace after the warranty expires.

Ok awesome, a clutch, flywheel, an Aluminum or CF DS would be great then! I want a reliable and fun weekend/fair weather driver. I either want to be able to make more power, or be efficient enough through weight lost from rotational mass to lay down more power to the pavement. Ok cool, I will stay away from those then and definitely the tuner, I know the Ford IDS will know if a tune has been in the car. I may do some suspension mods here and there maybe, the roads here are really not good for anything lowered or with a stiff suspension.

Thank you guys for the replies!

I would worry less about the shifter and more about the clutch if you're worried about the dealer denying a transmission warranty claim. At least with the shifter you can reasonably put the stock one back in first

 

[7500RPM_Ben]

I would worry less about the shifter and more about the clutch if you're worried about the dealer denying a transmission warranty claim. At least with the shifter you can reasonably put the stock one back in first

That is true, I want to not have any gear lockout. It looks like I will be out of luck, maybe. Owell.

 

[superhero]

any type of mod that adds power will be some what of a waste if you have lock out. If you ask me. Correct the KNOWN problems first. This way you will enjoy each power mod you do. As many others have stated>>>address the clutch first.
Hello clutch and good by clutch. The clutch is the anchor in the Boss.
Just remember this, lock out = frustration. Frustration = grinding. Grinding = new transmission. New transmission = new clutch.
Skip the lock out and frustration along with the new trans and just do the clutch. You can thank all the TMO members that did the costly research by installing all these claim to fame products to fix the lock out. The ones that came so very close are Blowfish racing and MGW. These guys are true engineers that took a bad design by a major company and did a great job at addressing the lockout problems with there product . Better than anyone else could do. I have the BF bracket and its about 80% better than stock. I still get LO for time to time. I don't track my car so I'm very pleased with my purchase and end result.

Almost forgot...I don't think any of these mods (BF bracket or MGW shifter) will void warranty. Both are easy enough to remove if you feel like your dealer is not willing to work with you.

 

[7500RPM_Ben]

any type of mod that adds power will be some what of a waste if you have lock out. If you ask me. Correct the KNOWN problems first. This way you will enjoy each power mod you do. As many others have stated>>>address the clutch first.
Hello clutch and good by clutch. The clutch is the anchor in the Boss.
Just remember this, lock out = frustration. Frustration = grinding. Grinding = new transmission. New transmission = new clutch.
Skip the lock out and frustration along with the new trans and just do the clutch. You can thank all the TMO members that did the costly research by installing all these claim to fame products to fix the lock out. The ones that came so very close are Blowfish racing and MGW. These guys are true engineers that took a bad design by a major company and did a great job at addressing the lockout problems with there product . Better than anyone else could do. I have the BF bracket and its about 80% better than stock. I still get LO for time to time. I don't track my car so I'm very pleased with my purchase and end result.

Almost forgot...I don't think any of these mods (BF bracket or MGW shifter) will void warranty. Both are easy enough to remove if you feel like your dealer is not willing to work with you.

Thank you for the reply! I have been searching the forums for information and it seems that an MGW and possibly even a clutch is out. I may go talk to the dealer about them. I will delve further into the topic of the BF Racing Bracket, it looks like it is a bolt-in piece. I am not planning on tracking mine as well, I do want to minimize the LO. I am also thinking about an aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft as well, that should not void warranty. They are a tad pricey though.

 

[byronj]

Stickers! Haha, just had to say it

 

[TMSBOSS]

Thank you for the reply! I have been searching the forums for information and it seems that an MGW and possibly even a clutch is out. I may go talk to the dealer about them. I will delve further into the topic of the BF Racing Bracket, it looks like it is a bolt-in piece. I am not planning on tracking mine as well, I do want to minimize the LO. I am also thinking about an aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft as well, that should not void warranty. They are a tad pricey though.

Dealers have been limited to replacing stock clutch with stock clutch. A few have replaced stock with aftermarket if you supply the parts.

I went with an aluminum drive shaft. The cost of a carbon fiber shaft is too much for this working man.

If you take apart the stock shifter, it is obvious that ford designed this shifter with noise and vibration issues as priority. Soft rubber bushings throughout eliminate any chance of fast precise shifts. The Ford upgrade also does little to address the issues

I would avoid the clutch line and trans mount snake oil fixes. I have a few and saw zero improvement to shifting. None.

 

[7500RPM_Ben]

Stickers! Haha, just had to say it

True, a big Nitrous sticker on the back would be great to bring in to a dealership! JK .

Dealers have been limited to replacing stock clutch with stock clutch. A few have replaced stock with aftermarket if you supply the parts.

I went with an aluminum drive shaft. The cost of a carbon fiber shaft is too much for this working man.

If you take apart the stock shifter, it is obvious that ford designed this shifter with noise and vibration issues as priority. Soft rubber bushings throughout eliminate any chance of fast precise shifts. The Ford upgrade also does little to address the issues

I would avoid the clutch line and trans mount snake oil fixes. I have a few and saw zero improvement to shifting. None.

If I have clutch issues I will talk to my dealer about swapping in a McLeod RST/Aluminum Flywheel. I have decided on those two once my stock clutch goes. The CF DS is 1-2 pounds lighter, I may go aluminum though. The CF I have read is balanced up to 9500 RPM and can take higher speeds than the aluminum.
I can tell by shifting the rubber bushings are soft, shifting my Boss takes a second or two, my GT and Cobra I can pretty much powershift. My GT has a built transmission and the Cobra's is mildly built though. I am not bothering with the clutch line as I do not plan on tracking my Boss and the Whiteline Trans Bushing is cheap and I was thinking about doing it, I probably am not now lol. Thank you for the information!

 

[302 Hi Pro]

FMC has provided us with a little guidance here with TSB 11-7-7.

2HP

 

[WinterSucks]

I have had no lockouts since changing the engine mounts to urethane, Steeda I think. And adding the Blowfish trans mount helped as well. I still had at least one lockout with the MGW shifter. But now with the urethane insert and mounts, the engine and trans are held more rigidly to the body and that helps eliminate enough misalignment under heavy throttle. Plus the engine mounts give you some vibration from the engine which I like.

 

[7500RPM_Ben]

FMC has provided us with a little guidance here with TSB 11-7-7.

2HP

Good information, I googled it and we cannot really do much to our cars without voiding warranty is what it looks like. I think that pretty much answers my questions on what I cannot have.

I have had no lockouts since changing the engine mounts to urethane, Steeda I think. And adding the Blowfish trans mount helped as well. I still had at least one lockout with the MGW shifter. But now with the urethane insert and mounts, the engine and trans are held more rigidly to the body and that helps eliminate enough misalignment under heavy throttle. Plus the engine mounts give you some vibration from the engine which I like.

I have looked into the Blowfish Bracket, I read where it adds 10 pounds to your car as well? Good information on the mounts, I did not think of that. The Blowfish Racing Bracket would be a good addition to purchase soon for me, as I have seen the install video's online and it looks like you can put it on and take it off without moving anything.