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Not sure how to get started

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Quite honestly, it is somewhat overwhelming. I want to get started, but not sure where to begin? I have the track attack in October so I suppose that is first step. I have already installed the brake cooling kit, but what about the pads, clutch line and brake fluid!

I don't see a whole lot of road racing activity around Houston and the auto x doesn't really interest me. Comments or suggestions?

???
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
Cjmclean31,
You're at the right place. Lots of helpful folks here.
There's a track in Austin and San Marcos. No, not in your back yard, but I drive 4, 4.5 and 6 hours to tracks in the upper midwest.

Brake fluid - ATE Superblue, a DOT4 fluid that lots of drivers here use. Yes, there's others that work well too, but its popular, reasonably priced, and can take the track abuse. Amazon sells it as well as other places.
Brake pads - I run Carbotech XP12 front/XP8 rear. Others like Performance Friction 01 and 97. A few others are used also. Hawk HP+ may work for your first track day, but after you know how to drive harder, you'll need pads that can take the punishment of slowing a 3,600 pound machine. If you choose Carbotech, I'd suggest also getting their 1521 street compound--its compatible with all of their pad compounds, so changing from street to track pads won't mess up the rotor's pad transfer layer. (pads transfer a thin layer onto the rotor, and not compatible from one brand to another)
You can drive a while on factory brake and clutch lines. I've got about 10 track days on mine, and those are still stock.
Get a good SA2010 helmet. I like wearing gloves on track too.
If you really get into this hobby, camber plates are almost required to prevent wearing the outside edge of the front tires.
Search and reading are your friend, and ask questions too.
Now get on track, and have fun!
 
Also shoes, the Puma driving shoes are doable for HPDE but are not fire rated. And a CG Lock, to keep you in the seat. Shoes will make a big difference if you have big feet.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
CG lock or other belt clip really helps for the stock belts.

Check the helmet thread if you don't already have one. Rentals are okay, but never are comfortable IMO...and good luck getting a clean one.

I think for your first time, the brake fluid is the only thing you must do. With the brake ducts in, I think any DOT4 would do to flush out your system. Upgrade to a better fluid and pads if you keep racing.

You should also have an accurate tire pressure gauge and a source for air at the track.
 
If you live in Houston there are great tracks near by. MSR Houston is a great track and TWS is awsome! Each one is about one hour away depending where in Houston you live. I live in Cypress so I'm closer to TWS. Cresson is'nt to far either, about 3 hours away and is a really good track as well. I usually drive to TWS and MSRH.
 
One more point, there are a minimal mods that you should do for safety of you and the car: (pads, fluid, coolers, etc.) Camber plates definitely help to minimize tire wear. Beyond that however, invest in seat time and training before spending $$$ on making the car faster. Installing the "driver mod" is really the most bang for your buck.
 
Really appreciate the advice guys.. I have the Track Attack in OCT so that will be a good start. I'm going to start with the brake fluid, upgraded clutch cable and 302s grille. If anyone else is in Houston, it would be nice to meet up!
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
LindsayEOD said:
Quick question guys: Where do you get your Carbotech pads at?

I get mine direct from Carbotech. http://www.ctbrakes.com/
Call and ask for Mike Jr.
Tell him the guy in South Dakota with the '12 Boss sent you. I'll be calling him Monday morning (he's on vacation this week) for my next set of XP12 for the front, and 1521 compound for the street use.
Suggest you have them pre-bed the track pads (they bake them at controlled temps so you don't need to bed them after you install them). Worth the price.

Models for the Boss: 1001 front / 1082 rear (their web site isn't correct for Boss rear pads).
 
Cjmclean31 said:
Really appreciate the advice guys.. I have the Track Attack in OCT so that will be a good start. I'm going to start with the brake fluid, upgraded clutch cable and 302s grille. If anyone else is in Houston, it would be nice to meet up!



well,
ill have mine back in town saturday or sunday so if you wanna meet up some time im game...
 
drano38 said:
LindsayEOD said:
Quick question guys: Where do you get your Carbotech pads at?

I get mine direct from Carbotech. http://www.ctbrakes.com/
Call and ask for Mike Jr.
Tell him the guy in South Dakota with the '12 Boss sent you. I'll be calling him Monday morning (he's on vacation this week) for my next set of XP12 for the front, and 1521 compound for the street use.
Suggest you have them pre-bed the track pads (they bake them at controlled temps so you don't need to bed them after you install them). Worth the price.

Models for the Boss: 1001 front / 1082 rear (their web site isn't correct for Boss rear pads).

Isn't half of bedding in getting the transfer layer on the rotors?
 
drano38 said:
LindsayEOD said:
Quick question guys: Where do you get your Carbotech pads at?

I get mine direct from Carbotech. http://www.ctbrakes.com/
Call and ask for Mike Jr.
Tell him the guy in South Dakota with the '12 Boss sent you. I'll be calling him Monday morning (he's on vacation this week) for my next set of XP12 for the front, and 1521 compound for the street use.
Suggest you have them pre-bed the track pads (they bake them at controlled temps so you don't need to bed them after you install them). Worth the price.

Models for the Boss: 1001 front / 1082 rear (their web site isn't correct for Boss rear pads).
Thanks man. I really appreciate it. I was having a tough time finding a dealer but I never thought to just try and buy them from the manufacturer.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,008
1,924
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
CaliMR said:
drano38 said:
LindsayEOD said:
Quick question guys: Where do you get your Carbotech pads at?

I get mine direct from Carbotech. http://www.ctbrakes.com/
Call and ask for Mike Jr.
Tell him the guy in South Dakota with the '12 Boss sent you. I'll be calling him Monday morning (he's on vacation this week) for my next set of XP12 for the front, and 1521 compound for the street use.
Suggest you have them pre-bed the track pads (they bake them at controlled temps so you don't need to bed them after you install them). Worth the price.

Models for the Boss: 1001 front / 1082 rear (their web site isn't correct for Boss rear pads).

Isn't half of bedding in getting the transfer layer on the rotors?

Yes it is but if you already have had Carbotechs on, the rotors are good to go. I have XP12 on front and XP8 rear and they are pretty awesome. No noise on the street either, Hawk HPS pads were worse than an old school bus with squeal.
Steve
 
steveespo said:
CaliMR said:
drano38 said:
LindsayEOD said:
Quick question guys: Where do you get your Carbotech pads at?

I get mine direct from Carbotech. http://www.ctbrakes.com/
Call and ask for Mike Jr.
Tell him the guy in South Dakota with the '12 Boss sent you. I'll be calling him Monday morning (he's on vacation this week) for my next set of XP12 for the front, and 1521 compound for the street use.
Suggest you have them pre-bed the track pads (they bake them at controlled temps so you don't need to bed them after you install them). Worth the price.

Models for the Boss: 1001 front / 1082 rear (their web site isn't correct for Boss rear pads).

Isn't half of bedding in getting the transfer layer on the rotors?

Yes it is but if you already have had Carbotechs on, the rotors are good to go. I have XP12 on front and XP8 rear and they are pretty awesome. No noise on the street either, Hawk HPS pads were worse than an old school bus with squeal.
Steve
Steve, so you use the XP12s on the street? This would be my first set of Carbotechs so I would not want to purchase this process, right? Thanks for the help.
Nate
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
New rotors need to be bedded too--to warm them up uncontrollably, and create the transfer layer. But the series of braking isn't as critical as bedding pads. Several medium and hard braking actions, and rotors are warmed up good and have a nice transfer layer.

Steve, do you run XP12 on the street? I did and they scream like a stuck pig just prior to the stop. This year I've been using stock pads/rotors for street, then switching to DBA4000/XP12 for track. But that's getting old. Time for Carbotech 1521 for street, which means no more rotor swaps :).
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,008
1,924
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
Yeah Wayne I am running the xp12s on the street. Just put them on 2 week ago with a new set of DBA 5000 rotors up front and xp8s out back on my existing Baer 14" rotor with just a sand paper cleanup. Ran about 200 street miles including bedding them in with 70-30 mph decelerations then let them cool to ambient temp followed by anothe 10 70-20 hard braking runs. Went to Pocono and ran the long course which is the main oval 1 and 2 and the North infield, hard braking from turn 2 exit to infield entry 110-35 mph and then some 85-95 down to 45 sections on the infield. The amount of brake tourqe available was awesome and no fade, burning smell or loss of capability during 30 minute sessions. Drove the 160 miles home and have driven the last few nights around town and no squeal. Last weekend I changed rear wheel bearings and seals (had a weep from right rear) and the pads showed very little wear front or back. Really want thank Roketman for pointing me to the CarboTechs, very happy so far.
Steve
 
drano38 said:
Steve, do you run XP12 on the street? I did and they scream like a stuck pig just prior to the stop. This year I've been using stock pads/rotors for street, then switching to DBA4000/XP12 for track. But that's getting old. Time for Carbotech 1521 for street, which means no more rotor swaps :).
Let us know how that works out for you.
 

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