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Oil Change Question

While I was creeping under my car last weekend, I noticed a plastic cover that read something like "remove for service". Is there a 2nd drain plug in the oil pan there? I looks like I also need to remove the tranny cooler to avoid making a mess when I remove the rear drain plug. To reiterate, is there more than one drain plug?
 

ace72ace

Zaino, I put that $hit on everything
1,242
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http://www.amazon.com/PIG%C2%AE-Form-A-Funnel%C2%AE-Flexible-Draining-Tool/dp/B003V9JWHO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1348737357&sr=1-1&keywords=form+a+funnel
21Iaj9qnDOL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
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After installing my Fumoto Valve, the oil drains briefly into the kitty litter scoop then drains right back out into the drain pan. Once I'm done I do a quik wipe with a paper towel and I'm done. Also, the Form-A-Funnel works pretty well. Not perfect but it's way better than nothing.
 
Fat Boss said:
After installing my Fumoto Valve, the oil drains briefly into the kitty litter scoop then drains right back out into the drain pan. Once I'm done I do a quik wipe with a paper towel and I'm done. Also, the Form-A-Funnel works pretty well. Not perfect but it's way better than nothing.

I've never heard of a Fumoto. I just googled it. They gave three choices. Which one are you using? The one that says "not reccommended for low cars" looks like the best one to me. It appears that you open the valve with your hand after the intial install. Is that correct?
 
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I think I bought one that you can hook a tube to, but as you know there's not much room for anything like that. I'd buy this one and try my luck. Once the oil drains it's pretty easy to wipe the scoop and a little film of oil on that steel scoop isn't a bad thing. The oil will take quite a bit longer to drain, be prepared for that. Gives you time to work on the filter.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/quick-drain-1112v6.html?utm_content=plaquick-drain-1112v6&utm_campaign=GSBasicFitmentV1-cpc&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&AMID=quick-drain-1112v6-NoFitment&adtype=pla&kw=
 
Nice work and welcome to BMO. Be sure to post photos of your Boss and introduce yourself in the 2012 photo thread.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/boss-302-general-forum/2012-boss-302-photo-thread/
 
Black KR said:
Used the version with the Nipple and drilled a 1/2" hole in the scoop. Makes for fast clean changes!

IMG_1686Small.jpg

Nice setup! Is that scoop/plate on all Bosses? I ask because don't have mine yet but am ordering items I will need to add. Do you have a part number for the valve you picture?

I assume you still need to direct oil from the filter with a scoop or something similar?
 

ace72ace

Zaino, I put that $hit on everything
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Looks like the trans cooler scoop you get with the LS with a fumoto valve. I already have my form-a-funnel and my Royal Purple oil & filter. Will be changing it in Dec just before I take it off the road for the winter.
 
byronj said:
Has there been any negative feedback on these valves?

On other forums I've seen concern expressed about them being knocked off by road debris but I haven't seen any actual reports of that happening. Other than that the feedback I've seen has been positive.
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
Moderator
2,848
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Connecticut
There was one posting I remember a while back where there was brake failure on a Boss that had them installed, however I don't believe there was any specific evidence that the failure was caused by the Russell bleeders. Based on how they are designed, if installed properly there should be no additional risk of leaking fluid when the bleeders are in their closed position since they are identical to stock bleeders at that point. The valve only comes into play once the bleeders are manually opened, and the worst that can happen there is that the valve is clogged (brake fluid will not bleed) or the valve is permanently in the open position, effectively making it operate like the stock bleeders where you need to open and close them manually after each brake pedal depression. As I said above I've used these for a full season and have bled my brakes a good 15 to 20 times with no issues. I think the most important points are the following, not dissimilar to installing even OEM bleeders:

  • Don't over or under tighten them on initial installation
  • Check for leaks after initial installation
  • Verify proper operation each time you bleed your brakes

Since proper brake performance is so critical for track driving I always do the above before every track event.

With regards to being knocked off by road debris - not sure how these bleeders have any more risk in that area that the stock bleeders.
 

zzyzx

Steve
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0
^ Does this post above have anything to do with the Fumoto valve for oil? ???

I went ahead and ordered one... looks like the perfect setup to me. Connect the hose, open valve = no more mess. Well, mostly, there's still the filter.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,231
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Illinois
zzyzx said:
^ Does this post above have anything to do with the Fumoto valve for oil? ???

I went ahead and ordered one... looks like the perfect setup to me. Connect the hose, open valve = no more mess. Well, mostly, there's still the filter.

I thought it was a great reply......just no in the right place. Would fit right in on the brake thread.

Probably the storm on the east coast..... has to be. ;D
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
Moderator
2,848
14
Connecticut
My bad, I thought we were referring to the Russel SpeedBleeders.

As for the Fumoto valves, I have one on my Boss, one on my Silverado and my son has one on his M3. No issues.
 

Boostd4

Relapsed Turbo Addict
161
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Great idea on the Fumoto valve, I was thinking about the same exact thing (drilling a hole in the scoop). That form a funnel is ESSENTIAL for filter changes on this car. I just did my first oil change last weekend and that thing saved me from wiping up a TON of oil that came out of the filter housing.
 

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