Oil cooler choices

[twistedneck]

I have been thinking about adding the FRPP engine oil cooler for sometime. So I have been rolling these assorted Oil Cooler threads with interest. Thank you to all who have shared their thoughts, installs, and technical information.

My questions, (2), are in regard to the sandwich plate installation, and path of oil flow.

1. Is it possible to install the Air/Oil cooler sandwich plate before the stock Oil cooler?

The oil flow path from the oil pump would look like this: Pump > Air/Oil Cooler > Coolant/Oil Cooler > Oil Filter > Main Oil Galley. Note: by cooling the supply oil through the Ail/Oil cooler, this would reduce cooling system duty.

2. Oil Pressure: Has anyone recorded a noticeable effect on engine oil pressure. (I would like to install an oil pressure gauge at the main oil galley if possible.)

Interested in your thoughts and opinions on this, thanks again.

Regards,
Dave
302 Hi Pro

Great questions Dave, i'd like to add that I have a GT with piston oil jets so there is already more stress on the oil pump vs. a boss. I have upgraded gears to billet but is there anything else I need to know? i'm about to get the Cooltech with t-stat option and use the FL500S filter. Will 5w-20 redline high zddp oil help?

 

[Black Boss]

The hose runs to the stock cooler will not work with a sandwich plate before the stock cooler. The choice is to put an air/oil cooler in series and after the stock cooler or eliminate the stock cooler and just run an air to oil cooler.

Consensus seems to be the stock cooler is pretty efficient, but there are durability concerns with it. I had coolant temp issues with just the stock cooler, and in combo with the Ford Racing kit (small Setrab).

I have now eliminated the stock cooler and use the largest Setrab. No more Coolant or CHT issues, but Oil runs a little hot (280F) after 30 minute high rpm sessions at high humidity, 90F+ ambient temps.

 

[VTBoss302]

Great questions Dave, i'd like to add that I have a GT with piston oil jets so there is already more stress on the oil pump vs. a boss. I have upgraded gears to billet but is there anything else I need to know? i'm about to get the Cooltech with t-stat option and use the FL500S filter. Will 5w-20 redline high zddp oil help?

IIRC, I think the Cooltech with t-stat option relocates the oil filter and uses a FL-400S style filter instead of the FL-500S

 

[Grant 302]

1. Is it possible to install the Air/Oil cooler sandwich plate before the stock Oil cooler?

The oil flow path from the oil pump would look like this: Pump > Air/Oil Cooler > Coolant/Oil Cooler > Oil Filter > Main Oil Galley. Note: by cooling the supply oil through the Ail/Oil cooler, this would reduce cooling system duty.

Essentially, no. For the reasons that Black Boss stated plus there are locating lugs to make sure the Boss cooler is clocked the right way. There may be a way to bypass that potential issue, but then the coolant hard lines would need to be lengthened to accommodate.

Great questions Dave, i'd like to add that I have a GT with piston oil jets so there is already more stress on the oil pump vs. a boss. I have upgraded gears to billet but is there anything else I need to know? i'm about to get the Cooltech with t-stat option and use the FL500S filter. Will 5w-20 redline high zddp oil help?

Actually, I'd call it less stress (but I think I know what you mean) since the squirters provide additional relief and the GT pump is in relief at 80 psi anyway. Upgrading to billet isn't as important as upgrading to a higher volume pump.

You know my opinion about running 20 grade oil on the track if you've seen any of my posts on SVTP.

I have now eliminated the stock cooler and use the largest Setrab. No more Coolant or CHT issues, but Oil runs a little hot (280F) after 30 minute high rpm sessions at high humidity, 90F+ ambient temps.

For your levels of heat management, I almost think you need to run another cooler. In parallel if you have any pressure concerns...but in the same situation, I think I'd run it in series with the first cooler venting through the hood. 90+ and high rpm make it tough to control.

 

[Grant 302]

Yes, I was talking about the stock FL-500S filter. If there is more than an 1/8, that's lots of room!

;D
Yeah, what was I thinking!

 

[nota4re]

It's good that we have all of you track-oriented folks interested in understanding oil temps and how to control them. I think this is a key to the engine's longevity. From our experience, there's a couple of principles that you should try to follow. First, from an avoidance perspective - there's a very strong link between engine RPM's and oil temps - especially on warm days. Kinda makes sense when you think about it - the more "explosions" that you have per minute, the more heat you are going to generate. Regardless of the oil cooler set up you have, if temps start going North on you, try running a lap with less rpm's (short shifting) and this will allow the oil temps to recover pretty quickly. Interestingly, we have had drivers remark that they have sometimes improved their times in certain track sections with lower rpms - and fewer shifts. Goof for the car and maybe good to find out another line/style through technical tracks.

Regarding cooling, I think you want all of the cooler that you can get/afford. As I mentioned in a previous post, by running the OEM and aftermarket cooler in series, you are going to get the biggest benefit. Our Cooltech kits and the FRPP kit do this - and we both tested/validated the results. A second thing is air flow. It's not enough just to have the cooler hanging out there - it MUST be in an airflow to have the best heat exchange occuring. We had a couple of prototoypes - some using coolers that have been mentioned here (good coolers) but without the proper airflow the results were poor. Finally, be sensitive to the pressure drop of the heat exchanger that you select. Setrab is one of the few companies that explicitly lists this for their coolers. Installing a cooler where you don't know the pressure drop specifications might be a little sketchy. My recommendation is to stay with known brands.

Last bit of advice - and perhaps for those of you that live/drive in colder weather.... consider a thermostat. This thread is rightfully more focused on oil cooling - but oil that stays TOO cool can be as big or even a bigger liability for engine longevity. This is the principal reason we brought two cooler kits to market. One, yes, to compete on a price basis with the FRPP solution (although we'd argue that we have better components), and one kit that includes a thermostat.

 

[BigTaco]

It looks like ford racing has discontinued the 302s oil cooler; bummer for me. Anyone know if the larger 2014 302s oil cooler is available as a kit?? :'(

 

[VoodooBoss]

It looks like ford racing has discontinued the 302s oil cooler; bummer for me. Anyone know if the larger 2014 302s oil cooler is available as a kit?? :'(

The Cooltech cooler is a quality piece if you're looking for a kit.

http://www.cooltechllc.com/ford-boss-302-parts-accessories/25-2011-302-oil-cooler-no-thermostat.html

If you want to put one together yourself you'll find a lot of info in the threads below.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=6652.0

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=7462.0

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=6666.0

 

[BigTaco]

Thanks for the links. I have not seen any set ups that are similar to the 2014 302s unit. That thing is huge. Has anyone been able to cobble a set up together that is similar? I have a call into Watson Racing to see if they can offer some of the components to the public. It would great if it can work in a street/strip capacity.

 

[Swiss Boss]

Black Boss is using the same coller as the Boss302S, he just turned it 90. It's looking down instead of the side. It's the Setrab 948.