Oil Cooler Setup, Thoughts and Questions

[Ewheels]

I have been beating myself to death pondering the right oil cooler setup for me and gathering all the right info.
I know the general consensus is Setrab 948 is best and Mishimoto kit is not enough cooling however I'm really drawn to the Mishi kit because 1. I'm a cheap bastard, and 2. I really appreciate the complete kit nature that takes all the guess work out of it.
Well after doing some reading and educating myself, I've learned that as important as low oil temps are, oil pressures are even more so and that pressure drops should be avoided at all costs. Additionally, that few and long cooler rows equate to greater reduced oil pressures as do more restrictive fittings. Well the Mishi kit in all its inexpensive and ease-of-use glory has all the attributes I DON'T want (comparatively low row count, some of the longest rows in the market, and the kit utilizes a 180° fitting at one end) - to me, this screams major pressure drops. This combined with the knowledge that I already know it probably won't cool enough, it's time for me to give up on the Mishi kit.

This brings me to Setrab and piecing together my own kit. I was previously set on a 934 as I thought it fit my stock Gen 3 power of 460 and driving habits quite well (I skip CA summer months, typically avoid track days over 90° ambient). However, now I'm thinking a 640 would be better in terms of pressure drops due to its more rows and shorter rows. Also, I'm thinking to mount the cooler sideways to avoid 90° fittings (just like the FP350S does).

Soooooo:
- does my shopping cart below look accurate for what I would need to build my own kit?
- does my train of thought about a 640 rather than 934 sound logical?
- is mounting it sideways to avoid 90° fittings better? Or will this starve the motor of oil on start up as it will need to fill the cooler with oil before the engine gets any?

 

[Apex Wheels]

Derale makes a line of coolers almost identical to the Setrab 6xx series. I'm not sure if they're quite as efficient as Setrab, but my Corvette uses a Setrab 948 oil cooler and I just installed a Derale "619" power steering cooler. I cannot tell a single difference between them based on feel/construction/etc.

Derale has its own line of mounting brackets too, but the Setrab ones would also work because again, exterior wise they are the same.

Here's a link to the "640" Derale cooler: https://derale.com/product-footer/f...eries/series-10000-stack-plate-2/54078-detail

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

IMO if you're not going to buy the mishi kit and piecing together a kit, why not go 948? Its not too much cooling even if you avoid summer months. Remember that more oil cooling reduces your coolant cooling needs/demands.

 

[67GTA]

When you get ready to build the hoses, DYME Psi is the way to go. Since you’re local, Brendan will let you use one of his snake kits to mock up the hoses before they build them. Then they’re crimped and pressure tested before you install — for less $$ than building your own with premium components.

 

[2012-Boss]

Setrab 984 minimum for the 5.0L. If its a 5.2L, you will need a 960 (same as the FP350) and some ducting. We have tried smaller oil coolers and the 948 and 960 are what work.

 

[Ewheels]

I was trying to save some money but I guess in the grand scheme of things, the 948 is only $200 more than a 934 or 640.
Buy once, cry once I suppose.

When you get ready to build the hoses, DYME Psi is the way to go. Since you’re local, Brendan will let you use one of his snake kits to mock up the hoses before they build them. Then they’re crimped and pressure tested before you install — for less $$ than building your own with premium components.

I do remember you telling me about DYME. That was my plan when I get to the hoses.

@Scootsmcgreggor is the pressure drop of the 948 any concern?

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

IIRC 948 pressure drop is 1psi or so. So nothing compared to the pressure drop that hose, fittings, and sandwich plate create. Hence why I went -12, much lower pressure drop than -10

For reference with the GT500 oil pump and pan and 948 with -12 lines, I'm still getting 95PSI at redline with oil at 220*F. So no lack of oil pressure.

 

[Ewheels]

IIRC 948 pressure drop is 1psi or so. So nothing compared to the pressure drop that hose, fittings, and sandwich plate create. Hence why I went -12, much lower pressure drop than -10

For reference with the GT500 oil pump and pan and 948 with -12 lines, I'm still getting 95PSI at redline with oil at 220*F. So no lack of oil pressure.

Well that settles it...I'm just going to copy your setup, haha
I'll message you for more details.

 

[Ewheels]

Ok follow up question for everyone....

With an oil cooler mounted so the ports are sideways, this would make it so the oil drains back into the pan when the engine shuts off, yes?
Would this mean the engine gets starved of oil briefly because it has to fill the cooler before oil reaches the block? Similar to cars with oil filters that drain out with the engine off.
I get that with a thermostat, initially the cooler gets bypassed but once to operating temps, the thermostat opens and it would have to refill the cooler, right?

 

[TMSBOSS]

ALWAYS do a first start after the car sits for a time. Push the gas pedal to the floor and hold. Crank until you have oil pressure. Release pedal, car starts.

 

[Mike_FL]

I’ve seen this mentioned a few places. Is it literally just hold down gas pedal and crank engine? Stupid question but is there any chance of it firing?

 

[TMSBOSS]

Nope. As long as the ECU sees 100% pedal position at start up, fuel will not flow. The way it was explained to me was the throttle to the floor at start up is equal to what we did with carbs. Flooding the engine with too much fuel was cured by flooring the gas and then cranking. The current programing does the same thing, the same way. The difference now is that once the throttle is released, fuel flows and the engine starts.

 

[Fabman]

Ok follow up question for everyone....

With an oil cooler mounted so the ports are sideways, this would make it so the oil drains back into the pan when the engine shuts off, yes?
Would this mean the engine gets starved of oil briefly because it has to fill the cooler before oil reaches the block? Similar to cars with oil filters that drain out with the engine off.
I get that with a thermostat, initially the cooler gets bypassed but once to operating temps, the thermostat opens and it would have to refill the cooler, right?

If you mount the cooler with the inlet/outlets on the side make sure you put the inlet on the bottom and outlet at the top to avoid air pockets.

 

[Rodpwnz]

*Reviving the thread here

As a casual HPDE'r who is not mechanically inclined at all, and has been reading oil cooler threads on/off for the past couple years....I still feel utterly lost and confused. Setrab/Derale this, sandwhich plate that, Temp sensor here, oil pressure there - truly feels chaotic and overwhelming because I don't want to F up something so important and critical.

I had a dealer install my Mishi trans cooler for $400, and it was as simple plug and play install. I plan to have a performance shop install my oil cooler, but I doubt they know about all the do's and don'ts that come with years of S550 forum scrolling and what seems to me to be an extra finnicky install for our S550 GT's. I'm sure they will not appreciate my laundry list of installation instructions.

Here is how I see it for my application:
1. My oil cooler needs to mount in lower grill due to upgraded mishi trans cooler in upper grill. (wouldn't this mean I've blocked a majority of my radiator?)
2. Oil cooler needs to use -12AN lines due to lower oil pressure risk.
3. Oil cooler should be Setrab 948/960 due to efficiency, quality and reduce low oil pressure risk.
4. Need multiple Sandwich plates???
5. Need to be mindful of in/out orientation for oil cooler.
6. Need to be mindful of how I start the car after letting it sit "for a time". Push gas pedal to floor and hold, crank till you have oil pressure.
7. I've heard that Ford calculated Oil and/or CHT temps will not longer be accurate due to increased oil capacity from cooler???
8. Need to measure out and fabricate cooler lines + secure them properly.
9. For relatively OK oil cooler kit, perhaps consider Harrop's perpendicular setup($$$). Unsure of efficacy when placed up against PP1 undertray; others have cut into the undertray to allow air flow. Also needs new -12AN hoses since -10AN in kit has lower oil pressure risk.

It's frustrating that there is so much to remember and deal with when it comes to a "simple" oil cooler. Not even a kit like Harrop's can get it right! Much like Ewheels, I really wish there was a simple, and cost effective plug and play method for better oil temps. Heck, I don't even have an oil temp with the digital dash, all I have is ford calculated CHT. I don't want to run a mess of wires and gauges on my daily driver; I want to have as seamless and OEM a cooling system as possible. The trans cooler install has been pretty seamless and easy, and I am even planning to replace/bypass the internal thermostat and install an external one along the trans cooler lines. That project has taken a lot of thought and planning but still seems simple and OEM like compared to an oil cooler.

Thank heavens at least the brakes are exceptionally good!!!

I'm a visual learner, and I like to go through things visually while I plan and execute. I would be more open to ducting, running cooler lines, and wrenching on my car if I had a garage to tinker in. Unfortunately, I've been in an garage-less apartment for the last couple years and I dearly miss having one. I can't even track my car with my friends in Cali summer without fear of heating issues and critical damage to motor/trans.

I am not trying to sound like a whiney little baby, just expressing my thoughts and feeling from my point of view as a casual HPDE'r and mechanically inexperienced S550 owner. I love the car but keep finding myself tempted to sell it almost based on the principle itself. Call it a love/hate relationship with Ford, especially after I had my defective A10 transmission replaced under warranty. How could a $55K performance vehicle not be able to handle casual track days comfortably? Especially when the competition does it so easily, at a lower price and with better overall performance (SS 1LE)?!

 

[Ewheels]

*Reviving the thread here

As a casual HPDE'r who is not mechanically inclined at all, and has been reading oil cooler threads on/off for the past couple years....I still feel utterly lost and confused. Setrab/Derale this, sandwhich plate that, Temp sensor here, oil pressure there - truly feels chaotic and overwhelming because I don't want to F up something so important and critical.

I had a dealer install my Mishi trans cooler for $400, and it was as simple plug and play install. I plan to have a performance shop install my oil cooler, but I doubt they know about all the do's and don'ts that come with years of S550 forum scrolling and what seems to me to be an extra finnicky install for our S550 GT's. I'm sure they will not appreciate my laundry list of installation instructions.

Here is how I see it for my application:
1. My oil cooler needs to mount in lower grill due to upgraded mishi trans cooler in upper grill. (wouldn't this mean I've blocked a majority of my radiator?)
2. Oil cooler needs to use -12AN lines due to lower oil pressure risk.
3. Oil cooler should be Setrab 948/960 due to efficiency, quality and reduce low oil pressure risk.
4. Need multiple Sandwich plates???
5. Need to be mindful of in/out orientation for oil cooler.
6. Need to be mindful of how I start the car after letting it sit "for a time". Push gas pedal to floor and hold, crank till you have oil pressure.
7. I've heard that Ford calculated Oil and/or CHT temps will not longer be accurate due to increased oil capacity from cooler???
8. Need to measure out and fabricate cooler lines + secure them properly.
9. For relatively OK oil cooler kit, perhaps consider Harrop's perpendicular setup($$$). Unsure of efficacy when placed up against PP1 undertray; others have cut into the undertray to allow air flow. Also needs new -12AN hoses since -10AN in kit has lower oil pressure risk.

It's frustrating that there is so much to remember and deal with when it comes to a "simple" oil cooler. Not even a kit like Harrop's can get it right! Much like Ewheels, I really wish there was a simple, and cost effective plug and play method for better oil temps. Heck, I don't even have an oil temp with the digital dash, all I have is ford calculated CHT. I don't want to run a mess of wires and gauges on my daily driver; I want to have as seamless and OEM a cooling system as possible. The trans cooler install has been pretty seamless and easy, and I am even planning to replace/bypass the internal thermostat and install an external one along the trans cooler lines. That project has taken a lot of thought and planning but still seems simple and OEM like compared to an oil cooler.

Thank heavens at least the brakes are exceptionally good!!!

I'm a visual learner, and I like to go through things visually while I plan and execute. I would be more open to ducting, running cooler lines, and wrenching on my car if I had a garage to tinker in. Unfortunately, I've been in an garage-less apartment for the last couple years and I dearly miss having one. I can't even track my car with my friends in Cali summer without fear of heating issues and critical damage to motor/trans.

I am not trying to sound like a whiney little baby, just expressing my thoughts and feeling from my point of view as a casual HPDE'r and mechanically inexperienced S550 owner. I love the car but keep finding myself tempted to sell it almost based on the principle itself. Call it a love/hate relationship with Ford, especially after I had my defective A10 transmission replaced under warranty. How could a $55K performance vehicle not be able to handle casual track days comfortably? Especially when the competition does it so easily, at a lower price and with better overall performance (SS 1LE)?!

An exceedingly expensive but OEM option would be to get a GT350 or Mach 1 bumper and the OEM corner pocket oil cooler. You could have a dealer do the whole install with zero special instructions but it'll likely cost you $3-4k.
.....or buy a GT350/Mach 1

 

[Rodpwnz]

An exceedingly expensive but OEM option would be to get a GT350 or Mach 1 bumper and the OEM corner pocket oil cooler. You could have a dealer do the whole install with zero special instructions but it'll likely cost you $3-4k.
.....or buy a GT350/Mach 1

Right.... If I'm buying a new car, it's probably not another mustang. What a shame; there is so much potential with an A10 + Magneride PP1 GT.

Are you still considering the Harrop solution at all?

 

[Ewheels]

Right.... If I'm buying a new car, it's probably not another mustang. What a shame; there is so much potential with an A10 + Magneride PP1 GT.

Are you still considering the Harrop solution at all?

Nope.
There's only the one guy on M6G who swears by it. If it really worked so well, all the real racers here on TMO would be using it too and yet none of them are. I'll follow the race winners' method rather than a casual HPDE'er.

 

[Rodpwnz]

Nope.
There's only the one guy on M6G who swears by it. If it really worked so well, all the real racers here on TMO would be using it too and yet none of them are. I'll follow the race winners' method rather than a casual HPDE'er.

Good to know and good luck - please share here if you can!

 

[TeeLew]

I was trying to save some money but I guess in the grand scheme of things, the 948 is only $200 more than a 934 or 640.
Buy once, cry once I suppose.


I do remember you telling me about DYME. That was my plan when I get to the hoses.

@Scootsmcgreggor is the pressure drop of the 948 any concern?

Any racecar project worth doing is worth over-doing.

 

[Fabman]

Any racecar project worth doing is worth over-doing.

Plus, it's a lot of money/work to do and not have it be effective.
Do what's been proven to work over and over.
And that's my 2 cents.