Oil cooling Kit decisions

[captdistraction]

So I have a pile of parts available to me to build an oil cooler kit. I have a core already mounted in my grille, -10AN lines but I'm stuck on some options:

Option 1 (MMR kit) - Oil filter relocation (Think ford racing block adapter), remote filter mount

Option 2 - oil sandwich filter, skip relocating filter (sell the remote filter mount and block adapter)

Option 3 - stack a oil sandwich filter (option 2) and the stock boss 302 water/oil cooler (to act as a warmer at first, and then a cooler once warmed)

I like option 3 the most as the packaging for the filter and servicing the system/ oil changes would be easiest. I couldn't figure out where to mount the remote filter where I could easily get at it and not put it in harms way should the car get dinged up.

Option 1 I could try a different remote filter mount, but I don't know where I could find to mount the filter without removing factory hardware, I'd like this to work as well on the street as possible and not require a complete disassemble of the front end to change the oil (I'm looking your way, Audi)


The other issue I'm having is I'd use the same canton part as the FR air/water kit for a sandwich filter but it has no provisions for a oil pressure gauge. I could tee off at the factory position, but with option 3 it seems like it would be pretty crowded (has anyone done this? What size fittings were used).

I have an oil temp sensor, but it plugs into the pan (I have the moroso 10.5qt road race pan).

Thoughts on this build?

 

[DGRacing]

Why not just go with a prefabd one like the cooltech or frpp?

 

[captdistraction]

Almost all this stuff is in my garage, and I'm on a bit of a budget spread between a few racecars

 

[Grant 302]

I like the idea of Option 3 and I think the parts should stack correctly...

Just to clarify though...you're putting a remote cooler to the sandwich filter stack, right?

 

[captdistraction]

That's correct

 

[captdistraction]

I'm going to go with option 3.

I found steve's instruction set on here with which T's to use to get the sensor changed over, and I'll use the boss water/oil cooler and just get a canton sandwich plate.

The only merit the remote filter mount was to use the massive FL1A filter, but I'll sell it paired with the block adapter, $100 if anyone wants it (including some fittings and miscellaneous hardware).

 

[steveespo]

I just changed my sandwich plate to this one I got off of eBay for $39.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110836766506?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Has -10 AN fittings just like my FRPP setup plus 2 1/8" NPT prts so you can install pressure and temp senders easily. I left my pressure setup as is but finally got my temp sensor and gauge functional. The oil temp tracks right along with the water temp with the stock Boss cooler plus the air to oil Ford racing cooler. The Boss cooler seems to act as a ore heater as well as a cooler just as I suspected. Temp steadied at 180 degrees during normal around town driving. Will report on track temps in a few weeks.
I also changed my oil cooler hoses from the Ford Racing textile reinforced to Aeroquip stainless braided hose. My originals were showing wear to the outer jacket where they rubbed on the plastic aero tray behind the splitter. Had an oil line split on me once drag racing, not my idea of fun.
Steve

 

[captdistraction]

After review I'm going to use the canton one (the linked one has a different thread pitch it seems), since I have a spot on the pan for the temp sensor and the "Home Depot Racer's Section" T setup will work for pressure.

I'll update this thread with the install pictures . The core I'm initially using is a bit small compared to the cooltech and ford units, but I believe it will be more than enough with the water/oil cooler and all the other cooling mods on the car (head crossover, large radiator, tiger hood, 302S grille, wrapped headers, etc).

 

[KBBOSS1086]

I've been looking into putting together an oil cooler too. I was also considering the Canton sandwich adapter but the one Steve linked intersts me due to the guage sensor ports (and it's much cheaper).

Can anyone confirm the thread size for our filters? From what I've been able to find it looks like it's 22mm.

Steve - are you using a different filter? I could be missing something but the one you got from ebay says it's 3/4".

 

[captdistraction]

I'm willing to bet he reused the insert from the canton unit.

You can also drill and tap the canton if you wanted, or have a shop do it, but I haven't seen many 22mm/1.5 units with the 1/8" npt ports on them.

I'm out of town until Monday for COTA (woohoo! Aussie V8 supercars and pirelli world challenge, I'll be crewing a TC car and hopefully 1 GTS car), but when I get back I'll post up a bunch of pictures as I start to assemble this mess.

 

[KBBOSS1086]

I'm willing to bet he reused the insert from the canton unit.

You can also drill and tap the canton if you wanted, or have a shop do it, but I haven't seen many 22mm/1.5 units with the 1/8" npt ports on them.

I'm out of town until Monday for COTA (woohoo! Aussie V8 supercars and pirelli world challenge, I'll be crewing a TC car and hopefully 1 GTS car), but when I get back I'll post up a bunch of pictures as I start to assemble this mess.

Thanks - I look forward to the pics. The V8 supercars are awesome...that should be a blast. There is a B-Spec race going on too. The shop in my area (Racelabz) owns the Honda factory sponsored team. The owner, Joel will be running in a Honda Fit. Have Fun!

 

[steveespo]

When you buy the one I linked you specify which threads. I got the stock 22mm using the FL820HP just like before. Part is 1/8th inch thinner than the Ford Racing (Canton) adapter which gave me a little more clearance to the chassis brace.
Steve

 

[captdistraction]

When you buy the one I linked you specify which threads. I got the stock 22mm using the FL820HP just like before. Part is 1/8th nick thinner than the Ford Racing (Canton) adapter which gave me a little more clearance to the chassis brace.
Steve

Oops. I should have seen that.

How much clearance is there to the brace?

 

[steveespo]

It's tight, I have to use a thin band oil filter wrench the get the old filter loose. Once it spins by hand no problem getting off or new one on. The FL 500 will go on and off easy, no problem.

 

[captdistraction]

Hmm, I was going to run the FL500s, benefit to the 820? More size?

I guess all I'm worried about is an anti-siphon valve to slow/prevent drainback as I don't want to rough up my valvetrain on every start

 

[steveespo]

FL 820 HP has a stronger can mister, better gasket, better anti siphon valve, more and better filter medium and more capacity than the regular and FL500.
They are expensive, I pay $12.95 on Amazon.
Steve

 

[captdistraction]

Well, so far its been slow going.

The alternator kit was a no brainer, went on like clockwork including the new metal pullies and tensioner.

The ford oil kit was a pain in the ass, its very tight in there and the 14MM hex tool required took a few trips to find.

The fittings all went in for the pressure/temp gauges.

I'm down to mounting the core for my air/oil kit, and assembling the hoses. I'm having such a hard time with the hoses, I can't get the outside fittings on the hose, no matter how hard I try. Going to get fresh cutoff wheels and try again tomorrow, or find a store to try some different brand hose.

Some pics: (I'll caption them tomorrow)

 

[moto]

Looking forward to seeing the pictures of the core install and hoses. I am doing this next also but am looking for a core to make my own as well. I know what you mean about putting the ends on the hoses and sometimes I have a tough time also. As for your brass fitting tee, I did exactly what you did but have a smaller oil temp sender so it points straight up. I used the same pipe sealant as you and after 3 tries to get some small leak out I finally used some of the red silicone gasket maker and the leaks are GONE!

 

[captdistraction]

Yikes to that. Making the 4th run to HF for a cutoff wheel and $10 grinder, along with some other bits to help speed this up.

Anyone have a picture of the underside of the trays on a boss with the FR kit? I want to see where to cut to pass my lines through.

 

[Grant 302]

Can you get 90 degree fittings into the sandwich block?

I've also had problems with multiple brass fittings and liquid PFTE sealants.

Thanks for sharing the pics and good luck wrapping up.