Oil cooling Kit decisions

[captdistraction]

Luckily for me, everything sealed on the first time. All lines, fittings, etc were dry as a bone after testing.

Unfortunately, my charging issues persisted with the new FEAD and alternator, and look at these readings!

It was really puzzling to me, as I thought I had to be just roasting the oil somehow (and how did it not translate into CHT's), and the pressure meaning I was starving the upper end somehow. Then it dawned on my by testing a theory:

By grounding the sender to the body, all of a sudden the readings were what I had expected. Now I know going between brass, aluminum, painted steel and aluminum again wasn't the best ground to start, but something was up between this and the alternator. Come to find out both engine grounds were completely loose and just sitting on their posts. I bought new nuts, used locktite and lock washers, and "locked" those m$#%'ers down. Voltage was then normal, all gauges behaved normally. Car picked up a ton of throttle response and power output. I wonder how long it had been like this. I did relocate the upper ground to the driver's side though an intake manifold bolt to the head that was easier to check and access.

I had to adjust some clearances for the lines, the fluidyne radiator is quite a bit larger on the bottom than the factory unit, so some adjustments had to be made. I did mange to put a small ding into AC condenser with one of the lines from clearance, but I had taped them to test and check for suspected rubs.

Kit works great now, though the oil seems a bit on the cool side at 180ish when sitting still, 175 when driving at speed. Cold pressures are 80-100, warm are 35-75 (idle, normal driving) on 5w50. For now I'm not going to continue my plans for a setrab core unless track time demonstrates this system as being too small

Some more random pictures:

On unrelated notes:

Time for another set of arms

A box was thrown from a car, seemed to be full of planting rocks. Guess what found my front end? Geico is getting it handled, though We're seeing what we can do to minimize my outlay

 

[yknot]

The Boss and all it's variants have a factory installed oil cooler system...that said, I think you can never have enough oil cooling, weather it's for the engine transmission or rear-end. The key to "Improving" the factory system is to use the best parts and the smartest design. The modular engine has a minimum oil flow of 6 Gal/Min. This is the minimum flow rate, so make sure anything you use in the system as that rating or higher. The minimum oil cooler, oil filter mount, By-pass mount, or Hose fitting should be a 1/2". Never use a 3/8" fitting on any fitting or hose adapter in the system, as it will imped the system to less then the minimum flow rating. Hoses have to be a minimum AN-10 in size, or 5/8" , anything less will not flow enough oil, and starve the engine. The oil cooler you choose, should be one designed for engine oil cooling, not a transmission or rear end cooler. There is a difference, and the cooler should be of a "Plate" design, as these have a higher efficiency rating and flow extremely well. Remember, a oiling system is exactly like a chain, anything less then the whole is a week link. Keep every fitting and hose the same size, use a "Full Flow" type fitting, as these have better characteristics then rudimentary NPT or Other fittings. Keep the bend total to less then 360° for each section of hose. Use the lest amount of bend possible for the condition, as direction change causes flow restriction. Also, consider the total length of the new system your putting in place....the longer the total length of new hose and cooling, the longer it takes the engine to suck up the oil, run it thought the oil pump, pressurize it, and then push it through the hoses to the oil cooler, and back then finally through the block and to the bearing surfaces that need the lubrication and pressure. This is not a lite subject here, your engine is dependent on this system at all times. And every change you make, weather you feel its good or bad, effects the engine in both good and bad ways.

I have seen several modular engine burned down by poor oil cooling systems. Generally I find its two main items, cooler and hose. Wrong cooler for the job or too small a entry port. And with the hoses, it generally too small a hose and fitting. Use the wrong one, and you have an issue of oil restriction. generally the car will start and run just fine, it's only when the engine starts seeing higher RPM and or heavy use that the oil flow issue will present itself in a bad way. resulting in total engine problems, from main and rod bearing issues to cam and cam journal wear issues.

Remember, Ford and it's Engine Operating Software does not monitor engine oil pressure like most would think. Yes there is a oil pressure sensor, but it is Merrily a switch, not a true oil pressure sensor. It only looks to see if the engine oil pressure is above 8 psi, if so the switch opens and lets the computer know AL is well, again it only See's 8psi or better, not the actual oil pressure. Yes, there is a oil pressure gauge in track apps.....your right...but that is not a real oil pressure reading, again the engine only has a oil pressure switch. What you see is a software driven program, that shows a pressure likely to exist under those conditions. hard to believe, but it has been this way since the first series of modular engine were released. In short there is no way for the engine or any track app or dash gauge to measure engine oil pressure. The computer only knows if there is 8psi or not, after that its all smoke & mirrors by Ford. I don't know how many times I've had someone say" But the gauge said I had oil pressure" It's a lot like the Easter Bunny, a neat concept and something many wish were true, but unfortunately it's just not.
If you do invest in a better cooling system, please consider these points. Also, while your there you can install a simple mechanical or electric oil pressure gauge and when you will finally know what your engine oil pressure is. If you use a remote oil filter mount or remote engine oil block, please use only the billet aluminum type, as the cast aluminum type will not last, are very cheap and like to split at the fitting threads with amazing similarity. The last thing you need is a persistent oil leak, and the mess it makes.

Remember, this is the most critical system your engine has, it is very much the life blood of the engine. Don't cheap out on any of the parts, and install the system as a well designed unit, not mix and match piecework. The hose should be quality units from a recognizable supplier. Aeroquip, Earls, and so forth. The hoses them selfs do not have to be Braided SS hose, you can use quality rubber oil hoses with quality push-on fittings, the key here is the quality part.

 

[captdistraction]

The lines are AN-10. Its sized comparatively to the ford racing kit (and smaller core than the cooltech, I may move to the core they use at some point).

Unfortunately, my oil temps aren't getting much past 160 if this pan sensor is giving me accurate readings. I need to get that oil heated up, lol. Building either a blockoff or something until I change the oil again and plumb in a thermostat.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

My oil is too hot!!! :'( :'( :'(

My oil is too cold!!! :'( :'( :'(

;D

 

[captdistraction]

lol, #BossWorldProblems

 

[KBBOSS1086]

Unfortunately, my oil temps aren't getting much past 160 if this pan sensor is giving me accurate readings. I need to get that oil heated up, lol. Building either a blockoff or something until I change the oil again and plumb in a thermostat.

I've been looking at a Mocal sandwich plate adapter with a 180 thermostat for $89 to use in my future installation. I haven't pulled the trigger yet but I will likely go with it when I put a kit together.

 

[captdistraction]

Do they make one in 22/1.5? I see one but no word on if it has a thermostat on it. That would certainly save on plumbing

 

[yknot]

I would not put much faith in your oil temp sensors accuracy at this point. The oil is prob ally getting hotter then the 160° reading your getting. I know there a pain in the azz, but the good old mechanical gages are much more trusting. You have to remember, it is the oil that has the greatest responsibility for cooling the engine....not the engine coolant. Another reason to invest in a quality oil cooling system and use quality synthetic oil. Generally I find engine oil temps in the 200-230° range, they can go as high as 280°, but you don't want them there for long. Typically, as long as you keep stacking the coolers in the front of a car or truck, you will never get any of the temps lower then the coolest one which generally is the engine coolant, since it is regulated at 180°. To get real oil temp drop, you need to mount the cooler away from the other radiators, to do this you should use a good plate unit with a electric fan built in. I have had a good deal of luck with the B&M Hy-tek cooler. It has ample size, comes with 1/2" fittings and is well made with a fan. This allows you to mount the unit, anywhere you want, under the car or in the front. I have several vehicles that I used this unit on, and mounted the cooler under the car, close to the transmission, engine or rear end it was cooling. You will find, it's a huge task to get oil to cold....Ideally it should have an inlet temp to the engine at about 160-180°, this gives it plenty of height to pull heat from the surrounding pieces, thus helping to cool the engine as designed. This saves wear, on the engine and the oil, as oil degrades as the temps go up.

 

[moto]

Do they make one in 22/1.5? I see one but no word on if it has a thermostat on it. That would certainly save on plumbing

I m assuming it is this one and that it is a thermostat as it says 180deg thermostat in the description:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/13462/Mocal_Sandwich_Plate

By the way is there a temp sensor port on your sandwich plate for both the before cooler and after cooler as that is what it looks like to me?

 

[Theviking]

I just purchased the Cooltech kit but since my car isn't a Boss it doesn't have the Factory oil/water cooler. Would there be any significant advantage of installing the Ford cooler inline with the Cooltech kit? I can't see why it would be critical but it's certainly cheap enough (in comparison) so I'd do it all at once if it's still beneficial.

FYI, the car will be used for a few HPDE events a year but most of my prior experience is on bikes so not exactly tearing up the track (yet).

 

[moto]

I just purchased the Cooltech kit but since my car isn't a Boss it doesn't have the Factory oil/water cooler. Would there be any significant advantage of installing the Ford cooler inline with the Cooltech kit? I can't see why it would be critical but it's certainly cheap enough (in comparison) so I'd do it all at once if it's still beneficial.

FYI, the car will be used for a few HPDE events a year but most of my prior experience is on bikes so not exactly tearing up the track (yet).

Thermostat or non thermostat? I believe the reason the cooltech and other kits leave the Water oil cooler in sequence is to get the temps up to operating temp quicker. It is more of a factor with the non-thermostat version I think. It wouldn't have any difference once it gets to operating temp as the SETRAB oil cooler is so good.

 

[Theviking]

Forgot they make both. I purchased the thermostat equipped version.

 

[KBBOSS1086]

I m assuming it is this one and that it is a thermostat as it says 180deg thermostat in the description:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/13462/Mocal_Sandwich_Plate

By the way is there a temp sensor port on your sandwich plate for both the before cooler and after cooler as that is what it looks like to me?

That's the one I was referring too. The only negative is that there are no ports for pressure or temp sensors. I was thinking about removing the stock water to oil cooler and replacing it with a sandwich plate that only has sensor ports on it. I'd prefer a single solution (with thermostat, oil line ports and sensor ports) but I haven't been able to find one. Stacking them this way would be assentially as safe as stacking one on top of the stock boss air to oil cooler, which others have done with out issues so i think it should be fine.