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Oil Cooling Kit - Opinions

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I installed the Cool Tech oil cooler this winter. It is a very high quality kit. I priced out the components that came with the kit and I think it would have cost me about $1100 to buy it all separately. I thought the $300 for the assembled hoses, brackets, and Kendal's research / testing was a fair price.

Having said that, I had some fitment issues with the cooler and brackets. I have the Ford Racing M-8005-MGT all aluminum radiator installed. The radiator is thicker than the factory and moves the condenser slightly forward. This caused the cooler to contact the condenser at the top. I had to elongate the cooler bracket mounting holes to gain more clearance. I now have about a 1MM space between the top of the two coolers. I may have to fashion new brackets if I see signs of rubbing.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,551
2,389
Arizona, USA
The quality on the FRPP kit is very nice but if you are mechanically inclined and have the right tools, you can built the same kit (or one with a larger cooler) for about 1/2 to 2/3 the price yourself.

I took the "easy" route and bought their kit myself, but after building some AN hoses myself I've realized how easy this would have been to make. But there is no guesswork with the FRPP kit.
 
I agree with ArizonaBoss. I took the easy route at the time and got the Cooltech kit, which is pieced together nicely. It installed without a hitch. Would I do it again? Probably not, because I feel like I'm capable of ordering and installing everything myself at this point in time, but not everyone is in that position nor do they want to be.

I still have doubts about push lock fittings and lines, but if they work, then that would make everything go together easily. You could install a thermostatic sandwich plate, a (very) large oil cooler core, some lines and fittings, and make some mounts with some sheet metal/angle and a dremel (if you really want to do it without any specialized tools). That's pretty much it. I believe Setrab coolers come with isolator mounts, which are rubber bushed to dampen vibrations going to the cooler. The rest is up to your creativity.

The one thing I do like about the Cooltech kit is that they use GREX remote oil filter mount, which does the same thing as a sandwich plate but also adds two ports for oil pressure and temperature, if you ever choose to monitor those. Frankly, the fact that it's remotely mounted isn't really convenient, but at least you wouldn't need to do something goofy like run two sandwich plates.
 
I plan on making my own kit and it looks like Mishimoto should have an adapter plate/thermostat that works on our cars soon. My plan is to remove the stock oil cooler and use a larger cooler with a thermostat.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=6652.0
 
When adding a thermostat (sandwich plate or external) be sure you purchase one that allows the oil to circulate through the filter and return to the engine even when the thermostat is closed. I believe there are some on the market that stop all circulation until the thermo temp is reached. Cold start ups + no ciculation could equal engine problems.

I'm planning to add this type and relocate my filter this summer. I'm also going to go with the FRPP (or similar) block adapter rather than a sandwich plate to free up some room underneath. I did a sanwich plate and setrab cooler last summer and realized quickly that it gets tight down there with sensor ports and AN fittings. Not to mention the potential clearance (rubbing) issues that could occur with the sway bar. The remote oil filter setup will also make it easier to change the oil.
 
NFSBOSS said:
I plan on making my own kit and it looks like Mishimoto should have an adapter plate/thermostat that works on our cars soon. My plan is to remove the stock oil cooler and use a larger cooler with a thermostat.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=6652.0

Rick, what cooler core are you going with?
 
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neema said:
I agree with ArizonaBoss. I took the easy route at the time and got the Cooltech kit, which is pieced together nicely. It installed without a hitch. Would I do it again? Probably not, because I feel like I'm capable of ordering and installing everything myself at this point in time, but not everyone is in that position nor do they want to be.

I still have doubts about push lock fittings and lines, but if they work, then that would make everything go together easily. You could install a thermostatic sandwich plate, a (very) large oil cooler core, some lines and fittings, and make some mounts with some sheet metal/angle and a dremel (if you really want to do it without any specialized tools). That's pretty much it. I believe Setrab coolers come with isolator mounts, which are rubber bushed to dampen vibrations going to the cooler. The rest is up to your creativity.

The one thing I do like about the Cooltech kit is that they use GREX remote oil filter mount, which does the same thing as a sandwich plate but also adds two ports for oil pressure and temperature, if you ever choose to monitor those. Frankly, the fact that it's remotely mounted isn't really convenient, but at least you wouldn't need to do something goofy like run two sandwich plates.

I installed temperature and pressure sensors in the GREX oil filter mount. The threads are not NPTbut are British Standard Tapered Pipe (BSTP / NP). I had to order an adapter for the pressure sensor and retap the GREX temperature fitting to NPT.
 
The plan is the one below and I think this is the same one Steve and a couple of others are using. I want to remove the stock oil cooler due to failures that have been happening with tracked cars. While I do drive mine on the street it's not a DD. The comment from KBBoss has me wondering if the Mishimoto thermostat circulates oil through the filter when closed.

http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-34-row-series-oil-cooler-p-235.html

http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-thermostatic-oil-sandwich-plate.html
 
2012-Boss said:
I installed temperature and pressure sensors in the GREX oil filter mount. The threads are not NPTbut are British Standard Tapered Pipe (BSTP / NP). I had to order an adapter for the pressure sensor and retap the GREX temperature fitting to NPT.

Seriously? I know the one port is 1/8 NPT , but what's the deal with the adapter not being available in the same NPT thread??

NFSBOSS said:
The plan is the one below and I think this is the same one Steve and a couple of others are using. I want to remove the stock oil cooler due to failures that have been happening with tracked cars. While I do drive mine on the street it's not a DD. The comment from KBBoss has me wondering if the Mishimoto thermostat circulates oil through the filter when closed.

http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-25-row-series-oil-cooler-p-193.html

http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-thermostatic-oil-sandwich-plate.html

Looks good to me. I'd probably do the same... maybe with a size or two larger on the cooler :)
 
neema said:
Seriously? I know the one port is 1/8 NPT , but what's the deal with the adapter not being available in the same NPT thread??

On the Grex that comes with the Cooltech kit the adapter is available in 1/8NPT; it's the existing senor port on the remote filter/thermo that's British Standard. (the adapter screws into an unused 10AN port - the existing sensor port on the side is what needs to be re-tapped to NPT)
 
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KBBOSS1086 said:
On the Grex that comes with the Cooltech kit the adapter is available in 1/8NPT; it's the existing senor port on the remote filter/thermo that's British Standard. (the adapter screws into an unused 10AN port - the existing sensor port on the side is what needs to be re-tapped to NPT)

The adapter is PT, which is one of the abrevistions for british threads. Most times, you can get it to work with 1/8 NPT. I had to retap my adapter. These are Japanese products, so expect British threads.
 
Guys FYI, I know of at least one Aeroquip push-loc hose/fitting failure. The hose pulled right off the fitting. Unfortunately that is all the info I have. I planned on building my own kit as well with push-loc hoses. My plan now is to pay someone to make a steel braided lines once cash is available.
 
2012-Boss said:
The adapter is PT, which is one of the abrevistions for british threads. Most times, you can get it to work with 1/8 NPT. I had to retap my adapter. These are Japanese products, so expect British threads.

Got it. I looked around and there are some 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT adapters out there. Auto meter 2269 is an example. I may give that a shot
 
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neema said:
Got it. I looked around and there are some 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT adapters out there. Auto meter 2269 is an example. I may give that a shot

The Auto Meter adapter is straight and not tapered thread. The Auto meter description is wrong. Do a goggle search or check Amazon. I also know from first hand experience. PM me fot the Mc Master Carr part number that works in the existing 1/8 PT port. If you want both pressure and temp, you will need the Mc Master and Greddy adapters. You then need to re-tap the Greddy to mount the temp sensor.

BTW, the temp sensor is before the cooler. Even with the Setrab and Boss cooler, I had 260 degree oil temps at VIR this weekend. Arizona Boss sees 240 post cooler, so I do not think think the temp is abnormal. I am going to switch to a billet grille and try running a gear higher.
 
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The McMaster-Carr adapter for the pressure sensor is part 4860K141, British Standard Threaded Brass Pipe Fitting, 1/8 Pipe Size, Npt Female X Bspt Male Adapter.

The Greddy adapter for the temperature sensor is part P/N 16400720, 1/8 PT.

Steve
 
HackBoss302 said:
Guys FYI, I know of at least one Aeroquip push-loc hose/fitting failure. The hose pulled right off the fitting. Unfortunately that is all the info I have. I planned on building my own kit as well with push-loc hoses. My plan now is to pay someone to make a steel braided lines once cash is available.

I have been meaning to post up some pictures on the failure but things have been hectic around the house. I was also waiting to hear what aeroquip had to say about the failure but after a few weeks they still have no answer.

Pics aren't the best but yes, one of the lines completely blew off. I used all aeroquip hose and hose ends, and all were brand new parts.

When this happened I was just driving down the highway on the way to eagles canyon, so I was not pushing the car hard, the cruise was set on 70mph. I was just glad I saw the idoit light come on and was able to shut the engine down. At the time I did not have a pressure gauge installed so I don't know how low it got. I do have a gauge now though.

So far the engine seems ok. When I got the car back home, I pulled the drain plug and there was still some oil in the pan, and when I removed the filter oil was draining from the top end. Bad part was I had just done an oil change the weekend before. Over all I got lucky, only had to replace both belts on the engine and many cans of degreaser. Let me tell you it is hard to clean up brand new Mobile One Syn, not much breaks it down, its been a few weeks and I'm still finding it on the underside of the car.

I do have the car back on the road, and I am using russell stainless hose and ends with no issues.

13392030393_969b9f1c6e.jpg
image by texasmustang65, on Flickr

13392024903_c9d4288def.jpg
image by texasmustang65, on Flickr
 
texasmustang65 said:
I have been meaning to post up some pictures on the failure but things have been hectic around the house. I was also waiting to hear what aeroquip had to say about the failure but after a few weeks they still have no answer.

Pics aren't the best but yes, one of the lines completely blew off. I used all aeroquip hose and hose ends, and all were brand new parts.

When this happened I was just driving down the highway on the way to eagles canyon, so I was not pushing the car hard, the cruise was set on 70mph. I was just glad I saw the idoit light come on and was able to shut the engine down. At the time I did not have a pressure gauge installed so I don't know how low it got. I do have a gauge now though.

So far the engine seems ok. When I got the car back home, I pulled the drain plug and there was still some oil in the pan, and when I removed the filter oil was draining from the top end. Bad part was I had just done an oil change the weekend before. Over all I got lucky, only had to replace both belts on the engine and many cans of degreaser. Let me tell you it is hard to clean up brand new Mobile One Syn, not much breaks it down, its been a few weeks and I'm still finding it on the underside of the car.

I do have the car back on the road, and I am using russell stainless hose and ends with no issues.

Glad everything worked out Chase and thanks for the update.
 

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