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Oil Pressure Warning Light

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Hey Guys, I want a bright flashing "hey idiot turn your engine off right F'ing now" light or warning in the event that oil pressure is too low. I've got the PP pressure gauge but I'm not constantly looking at it while on track of course. I was considering a Stack pro-control gauge that flashes pretty vividly when pre-defined high/low presets are reached. But then I saw a post from @PaddyPrix on M6g that he has a tablet set up with OBD2 data with preset warnings. So I'm looking to understand what is possible on the OBD2 front relating to grabbing data, setting up warnings, and displaying them. I know there's tons of info on the can/OBD networks but not sure what technology is out there to grab it and display it.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Does the accusump come with a low oil pressure warning/indicator?
No, it does buy you time to shut stuff down. As an example, years ago a mustang cut one of the oil cooler lines in the bus stop at Daytona, the driver was busy driving the car at the time and by the time he reacted, in the banking and killed the engine, it was out of oil. He coasted into the pits and the engineer looked over the data and decided the car never went below minimum oil psi at any time.
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
984
1,276
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
"hey idiot turn your engine off right F'ing now" light

An old school setup is to use a universal truck combo brake/reverse tail light. You wire the oil pressure sensor to the brake light, and use a low-pressure sensor in the coolant line (e.g. Longacre 52-43241) wired to the reverse light to light it up when coolant pressure is low (engine still warming up or coolant loss). You also need to mount it where it's nigh-impossible to miss/ignore.
 
114
164
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Australia
@honeybadger @Fabman @blacksheep-1
Hey Guys i need your trusty urgent help here downunder 😔🤔😉👍

So I have added to my GT PP1 Setrab 960 oil cooler, oil balance lines between heads, i also used MMR oil filter relocation kit together with the Fram Racing Hp4 filter and Accusump paired up with the Electric Valve with 30-40psi pressure switch. <---- Almost the same set up as @honeybadger The whole oil system took around 13.5L of 5w-50 Mobil 1 oil including accusump to fill. I have done a free spin of the engine to bleed all the air out of it and then fired it up.
Once I fired up I'm now getting low oil pressure warning message on the dash at idle and also at 1500-2500 rpm, I didn't want to push it anymore than that. It also makes no difference if the accusump is on or off it still shows the same message.
I have tried also flushing it back to stock tune and trying it without having a success, or back to Lund tune also with out success.
I did not have this problem prior to this change, so I'm stuck with trying to work out where the issue is.
Is the oil pump struggling with the oil volume that it has to move now? or does it have something to do with the filter not having a valve infernally? I don't think it would be the oil viscosity as I had the car idling for around 30 minutes and oil was hot when I was touching the oil lines which are -10An and temperature gauge was saying normal.

I have a track day coming up and need to get it sorted.
Thanks for your help 👍
Stan
 
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TX
First thing I’d do (after Rob’s suggestion of replacing the oil filter) is bypass the cooler/accusump entirely and try again. Just make a loop coming in and out of the block.
Might also be worth pulling the valve covers and looking at the cam caps/cam journals. I have a friend who had issues after installing the oil balancing lines and it wrecked his cams because containments got into the oil galleys and blocked it.

also, if you have a OBD2 cable, you should be able to download Forscan and get a live read of the oil pressure from the ecu.
 
114
164
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Australia
First thing I’d do (after Rob’s suggestion of replacing the oil filter) is bypass the cooler/accusump entirely and try again. Just make a loop coming in and out of the block.
Might also be worth pulling the valve covers and looking at the cam caps/cam journals. I have a friend who had issues after installing the oil balancing lines and it wrecked his cams because containments got into the oil galleys and blocked it.

also, if you have a OBD2 cable, you should be able to download Forscan and get a live read of the oil pressure from the ecu.
Issue is fixed, it was bad ground connection between OEM sensor and the MMR aluminium take of plate. I presume that anodised threaded part is the issue as the sensor uses that to grab ground.
So I took the sensor out and put it back in and it's working. Taking it in and out cleaned up the anodising and made ground connection now
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,529
5,242
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Working on automotive electrics, the ground side is often disregarded. If it’s bolted on, it’s grounded, right? Until it isn’t.
When gremlins pop up, Always check your grounds.
My first car had several bad ground issues. Why, fiberglass body and salts roads in the Great Lakes. The fact that someone removed the frame to engine ground cable was also not helpful. I could start the car by connecting both jumper cables under the hood.……from the cars battery. Strange. Once it started, remove the cables and it continued to run. A huge lesson for me, at age 16. Never forgotten. When nothing makes sense, look at the ground side of the circuits. A long jumper wire which can reach from the negative side to the batter to where you are working is good to have.
 
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Working on automotive electrics, the ground side is often disregarded. If it’s bolted on, it’s grounded, right? Until it isn’t.
When gremlins pop up, Always check your grounds.
My first car had several bad ground issues. Why, fiberglass body and salts roads in the Great Lakes. The fact that someone removed the frame to engine ground cable was also not helpful. I could start the car by connecting both jumper cables under the hood.……from the cars battery. Strange. Once it started, remove the cables and it continued to run. A huge lesson for me, at age 16. Never forgotten. When nothing makes sense, look at the ground side of the circuits. A long jumper wire which can reach from the negative side to the batter to where you are working is good to have.
Yep, but being old school, it's hard to beat a Stewart Warner mechanical gauge.
 
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To be fair to you kids, I would never relate a low oil pressure psi with an electrical failure.. sort of like the diff whines, so check the ground wiring.
 
114
164
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Australia
To be fair to you kids, I would never relate a low oil pressure psi with an electrical failure.. sort of like the diff whines, so check the ground wiring.
Yea true, but with these new modern cars you just never know. Especially when you have checked with a manual gauge and you definitely have pressure, you then need to start looking at electrical sensors and how they work and do testing from there.
 

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