Oil pump upgrade?

[Mad Hatter]

Dont want to hear that wallet busting sound!! Sad! I popped into to a garage that works on Ford 150's with Coyotes and they said they would take the engine out to change the pump and recommended opening the pan and seeing the state of the engine...... Makes me nervous.... the Mecanic is a old timer who was a famous racer in these parts.... But..maybe just take some time and do it at home???

Any thoughts?

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

It can be done in the car, you have to be very careful when removing the bolts for the oil pickup tube. At any rate, if you're not doing it yourself, you're kind of at the mercy of the installer.

Here is a detailed thread showing what's involved in the in-car method (as much as I dislike linking to other forums, this thread is basically the bible on this swap): http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111176

IMO not going to see much by taking the oil pan off unless they plan to remove the connecting rod ends and main journals and inspecting the bearings. If you're going to be that invasive, you might as well have the bearings replaced while they are in there.
You can find what bearings are in the main journals using the procedures starting with step 1 here: http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=823&viewfile=Engine.pdf

Also if you're going to take the engine out, it would be a perfect time to install long tube headers and a road race oil pan--but you will likely have to remove the engine by dropping the entire K member (sounds intimidating but not a big deal) because you won't be able to put it back in through the top w/ the LT headers attached.

 

[Mad Hatter]

I was thinking of bribing a mechanic friend to give me a hand. Am very allergic to being at the mercy of shops down here, almost always ends badly. Thanks for the links!

Kooks headers are already on... Lack of funds is going to have to push this till Feb I think. Between Xmas, Tires, swaybars etc..... Visa card is getting very thin. Mean time I lowered the redline a little more

 

[Smilieboy]

Couple of questions if one entrepid soul wanted to complete this with a car that motor has 40K miles and lots of track days.

1. What other things could be/should be considered when doing this? i.e. timing chain replacement, head gaskets, etc

2. Does this cover the oil pump gears or do other ones need to be purchased. I saw Voodoo child saying he was getting a set of TSS OPG as well.

3. Ford Perf. is selling a kit that includes a windage tray in the kit. Don't you have to take the oil pan off to get to that?

Thanks for adding something else for me to be worried about now. I thought the Boss OPG were better off than the GTs

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Couple of questions if one entrepid soul wanted to complete this with a car that motor has 40K miles and lots of track days.

1. What other things could be/should be considered when doing this? i.e. timing chain replacement, head gaskets, etc
You will not need to remove the heads, so I'd let the head gaskets be. Timing chains should be checked for any kinking or non-smoothly-rotating links when you take them out. If you get one that has some kink to it, replace it. Check your timing chain tensioners and make sure they still have good spring action. Other than that I'd just leave anything that isn't involved in the modification alone.

2. Does this cover the oil pump gears or do other ones need to be purchased. I saw Voodoo child saying he was getting a set of TSS OPG as well.
If you buy the pump assembly, the gears come with it. TSS are highly regarded if you are buying gears and re-using the stock housing.

3. Ford Perf. is selling a kit that includes a windage tray in the kit. Don't you have to take the oil pan off to get to that?
Yes, but your car already has the tray installed (assuming it is a Boss based on image in your sig), believe GTs have these as well.

Thanks for adding something else for me to be worried about now. I thought the Boss OPG were better off than the GTs

Please see bold within.

 

[steveespo]

Boss and GT oil pan gasket/windage tray is the same and generally is reusable.
I bought the CJ oil pump not gears, once again I trust Ford Performance with assembling the pump and gears. The cost is not that much more and all is brand new and matched.
I did buy a TSS crankshaft timing gear for piece of mind.
Also bought the ATi damper and ARP damper bolt. Lighter weight (2 lbs) and better harmoni damper performance are the pluses here. Almost like adding an aluminum flywheel reducing rotating mass.
Would not pull heads or unbolt the bearing caps unless there are symptoms of failing parts. Bore scope can be used to check cylinder walls and piston tops which will show potential problems. Oil analysis can also give indication of bearing issues although with the cams riding in aluminum bearing saddles where the problem is may need opening the engine to diagnose. In any case if aluminum content in the oil is that high you should pull the motor anyway.

Change the chain tensioners regardless, cheap insurance, same with the primary chains.
Damper bolt is a one time use so I would get the ARP which is stronger and multi use.
Steve

 

[Smilieboy]

Thanks for the input Steve and ArizonaBoss.