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Old Gas

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captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
Its been over a year since the fuel in my tank has been used to fire an engine. I'm not sure how much fuel is in there (I had assumed that I had driven it to near empty). I know fuel ages poorly, however anyone have thoughts on how bad a year in Arizona would be? I popped off the vent cap off the driver's side pump and a bit of fuel came out, smelled like plain-jane gasoline with nothing out of the ordinary.

Should I go through the trouble of trying to drain the dual sump tank? Or would it be ok to fill it with decent gas and then just burn through what's left for break in purposes on a fresh motor with no build-up?

I hadn't looked at the fuel filter (hell, its about the only thing in the whole car I can't locate off of memory), or looked at any additives (as there are many claiming everything out there)
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
captdistraction said:
Its been over a year since the fuel in my tank has been used to fire an engine. I'm not sure how much fuel is in there (I had assumed that I had driven it to near empty). I know fuel ages poorly, however anyone have thoughts on how bad a year in Arizona would be? I popped off the vent cap off the driver's side pump and a bit of fuel came out, smelled like plain-jane gasoline with nothing out of the ordinary.

Should I go through the trouble of trying to drain the dual sump tank? Or would it be ok to fill it with decent gas and then just burn through what's left for break in purposes on a fresh motor with no build-up?

I hadn't looked at the fuel filter (hell, its about the only thing in the whole car I can't locate off of memory), or looked at any additives (as there are many claiming everything out there)

IIRC, Ford went with a non serviceable fuel filter that is a part of the fuel pump assembly with the 2011 forward model year S197's, except for the GT500 which has a separate inline filter.

If you do need to drain the tank, you could disconnect the fuel line before the fuel rail on the left side of the IM, (drivers side), then fit a drain hose on the fuel supply supply line connector, (slip fit larger diameter fuel drain hose), then use a jumper wirt to the pump relay under the rear seat and have some one turn the key to the On position, (Not start position).

This way you could pump the old gas out too much trouble if was necessary after inspecting the first 1/2 quart or so for a fuel sample. If you used a fuel stableizer, you might be good to go! Note: I always thought it best to store cars, (12-18 months), with a full tank of gas with stabizer to prevent excess condensation from forming above the internal tank gas line.

Just a thought.
302 Hi Pro
 
Yes I would get a tank of fresh gas and run it. Being in Az I doubt there would be enough H2o in there from condensation. With the plastic tanks rust isn;t an issue like the old metal tanks.
In the future you are going to keep it unused that long get some Stabil or better yet fill up with Race or aviation gas.
 
380
2
I would feel safe starting the car and running it. If breaking it in includes running it hard, dyno runs, additional hard runs for tuning, etc then I would strongly consider evacuating the tank and putting in fresh gas.

After my Boss started it's perpetual limp mode issues, I've learned to preemptively strike the issue - I add Stabil to my VP fuel jugs before I even go to fill them up. Whatever goes in the car should be good for at least year that way.
 

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