One piece driveshaft

[576]

I am thinking of upgrading to a one piece driveshaft. Any good experiences or bad? Thanks.

 

[skwerl]

Yes. Stick with a premium brand, don't skimp. DSS, Dynotech, Shaftmasters are the only three brands I would consider. DSS would be my first choice (I've owned two) and Dynotech would be my second choice.

DO NOT buy a 4" shaft.

 

[F.D. Sako]

Rev Auto recommended Dynotech for me and I was very pleased with their quality. I believe Dynotech is one of the brands that has the rear adapter welded to the shaft, where-as most other brands bolt the adapter to the shaft. But I think Dynotech is one of the pricier ones as well.

 

[TMSBOSS]

I went with a DSS shaft.

3.5 inch aluminum.

Bought through Lethal Performance. They have 10% sales fairly often.

Right around $700.00 with shipping.

 

[Cobra700]

PST no good?
Anyone know what our length is?

 

[JScheier]

Dynotech aluminum here. One of the newer ones with the 1 piece billet rear flange (ie: no adapter plate).

Significantly lighter than OEM and zero vibrations... even at 155+ at Road America (three days, 5 sessions a day, 20+ minutes per session).

 

[Shaun12]

what's wrong with the 4 inch DS? Anyone have a CF DS?

 

[BOSSSTANG]

what UCA's did you guys go with, its necessary in order to correct pinion angle when going to a 1 piece, right?

I put in a Steeda UCA in hopes of doing an alum. DS in the future however I am getting some slightly annoying whine around 60-70MPH with the stocker DS (I've tried -1 and -2 pinion angle, -2 seems a little quieter).

 

[skwerl]

what's wrong with the 4 inch DS? Anyone have a CF DS?

Clearance issues with exhaust, driveshaft loops, shifter brackets, etc. Many mods will be affected by a 4" driveshaft and every single time you will wish you had not decided to save $100 on a cheap 4" driveshaft. If you lower your car, it hits. If you go corner carving then it hits. If you install a driveshaft loop it hits.

DSS makes the GT500 carbon fiber driveshaft for Ford.

what UCA's did you guys go with, its necessary in order to correct pinion angle when going to a 1 piece, right?

I put in a Steeda UCA in hopes of doing an alum. DS in the future however I am getting some slightly annoying whine around 60-70MPH with the stocker DS (I've tried -1 and -2 pinion angle, -2 seems a little quieter).

I've been a big fan of BMR for several years. Kelly participates on many forums and always offers great advice. He knows his stuff and the BMR pieces are as good as any you will find. They are also better than most. I have their upper control arm and mount, lower control arms and relocation brackets, and adjustable panhard bar. On my Bullitt I also had the K member and front A arms. Awesome quality.

 

[Champale]

First I installed a Steeda UCA and bracket, got a lot of annoying whine from the diff. Then I bought a Dynotech DS from Steve@Blowfish and it actually made the noise mostly go away. I didn't even change the pinion angle or anything, just installed the DS, and most people wouldn't even notice the faint whine now.

As for brands of DS, there is a very popular one that claims to be the be-all-and-end-all that has had SO MANY FAILURES, both from people on this forum and other Mustang forums, so just google some of the popular brands that have already been listed and you will see what I mean. I have been very happy with my Dynotech and zero vibration, even at highly, uh, extra-legal speeds.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Rehagen runs Dynotech shafts on their cars so that is what I will be doing when I go one-piece in the near future.

 

[seca954]

I have the Dyna Tech. I've had no issues with it. It's a quality DS.

 

[JScheier]

Rehagen runs Dynotech shafts on their cars so that is what I will be doing when I go one-piece in the near future.

I thought it was because I ran it? Damn

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

I thought it was because I ran it? Damn

Obviously that was what pushed me over the edge on it

 

[BOSSSTANG]

Is this the one that people have problems with (axle exchange)? http://www.axle-exchange.com/inc/sdetail/82/247

 

[302 Hi Pro]

I run this DS without any issues or problems and in my opinion this is a competition level DS, so it's not for everyone. Additionally it is a more technical install as the pinion flange must be replaced and the pinion bearing preload must be reset during the install. Most just re torque the pinion nut as instructed by the instructions provided by AE.

Once installed correctly, it is a very stout DS assembly. The power transfer is excellent with a U-Joint DS.
If you want a plug n play DS, select one with a Constant Velocity Joint, (CVJ).

There are several good choices out there, good luck in finding one that best suits your needs.

All the Best,
Dave

 

[patrickshelby]

I have DriveShaft Shop Carbon one and all good so far.

 

[Justin]

Still have a dss alum. Going on 23000 miles or so now. 0 issues


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[576]

Thanks for the info. I ended up with the Dynotech new style that has the adaptor/ rear flange 1 piece. All good so far. And it is so pretty against the blue Blowfish shifter bracket. I am not sure why Ford spent so much energy on the stock 2 piece. Must have been NVH issues and the usual cost concerns. Glad I have access to a lift. The mechanic at Ford who repaired the transmission must have torqued the front flange bolts to 500 lb/ft. Never would have got them loose without proper air tools.

 

[JScheier]

Glad I have access to a lift. The mechanic at Ford who repaired the transmission must have torqued the front flange bolts to 500 lb/ft. Never would have got them loose without proper air tools.

Could have been worse... mine were finger tight after Ford replaced my clutch :