Open ended lug nuts

[Flyboygsxr]

I am going to ARP studs up front and eventually in the back too. I am looking for a small diameter open ended lug that I can use on my Enkei's and SVE Drifts. The Enkei's have small lug openings and the SVE's have even smaller openings. The company I bought the wheels from recommended I just cut the back of the lugs off and I would be okay. I am not sure that is a good idea because I don't know if that would compromise the integrity of the lug nut. Any recommendations?

Adam

 

[cp85gt]

I think Vorshlag sells a smaller open lug to fit the smaller lug openings. A 3/4" 1/2-20 stepped open lug would work with a thin wall socket as well. I need to find a source for these as well.

 

[ls110]

I would not tamper with a lug nut as there is way too much at risk. I have seen too many stripped or broken off studs.

I had an issue getting a beefy socket wrench into my Forgestar wheels and thus tried the "small diameter" lugs listed below. However after comparing them to my larger Gorilla's, also listed below, that I had been using, I was not comfortable going with such a small lug. I ended up just changing my lug socket wrench to one that has a thinner wall and that works just fine with the larger lug and small opening in my Forgestars.


Gorilla 20083SD Small Diameter Acorn Open End (1/2 Thread Size)

Gorilla 90087 Acorn Bulge Open End Lug Nuts. Amazon $5.70 for set of 4

 

[2012-Boss]

You can get the Gorilla open 3/4" bulge acorn lug nuts for about $32 for a box of 100 shipped on Amazon. Cortex recommended these to me. They are the small lug nuts mentioned above. I believe these are what Vorshlag sells. I have used them on track without issue.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ICXGYO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[TMSBOSS]

Adam

I have both the Enkei and Drifts with ARP studs front and rear.

I run the FRPP lug nuts. I have to use a standard wall deep well socket. The one provided with the Enkei wheel to be exact.

This works just fine.

Since I received 4 with the wheels, I carry two in my tool box.

Tracy

 

[Flyboygsxr]

Adam

I have both the Enkei and Drifts with ARP studs front and rear.

I run the FRPP lug nuts. I have to use a standard wall deep well socket. The one provided with the Enkei wheel to be exact.

This works just fine.

Since I received 4 with the wheels, I carry two in my tool box.

Tracy

I never got a socket with my Enkei's and I purchased them through TireRack.

 

[TMSBOSS]

I never got a socket with my Enkei's and I purchased them through TireRack.

Bummer

I have used a thin wall craftsman socket also.

 

[further]

I have the ARP studs and use the small nuts from Vorshlag on my track and street wheels.

 

[Viper1mx]

Call Tire rack and tell them you want your sockets - Enkei packs one in every box - I too have four. And for the company that told you to cut your lugs - I can't believe Tire Rack recommended cutting lug nuts, must be the place you bought the SVE's from I hope - did they also suggest locktite as well? I can't even start to explain all the issues with that ridiculous statement - call the owner and give him a heads up what kind of liability his employee is creating for him and if is the owner, well buyer beware.
My 2 cents

 

[Flyboygsxr]

I will contact tire rack and let them know I never received them. Do you think the Ford Racing open lugs will work with the enkei's and SVE drifts?

 

[steveespo]

I will contact tire rack and let them know I never received them. Do you think the Ford Racing open lugs will work with the enkei's and SVE drifts?

They work but you have to use standard deep well 13/16" socket. Impact and 'heavy duty' sockets don't fit. Shouldn't use air tools on your wheels anyway unless you change studs often. I use a Bosch 18V small impact screw gun that maxes out at 45 ft/lbs to run the lugs on and off, then complete torque with torque wrench. Also try and torque wheels unloaded (off he ground) this makes sure the wheel is clamped squarely on the rotor face. I had cases of vibrations due to loose nuts before I started doing this.
Steve

 

[Flyboygsxr]

Adam

I have both the Enkei and Drifts with ARP studs front and rear.

I run the FRPP lug nuts. I have to use a standard wall deep well socket. The one provided with the Enkei wheel to be exact.

This works just fine.

Since I received 4 with the wheels, I carry two in my tool box.

Tracy

Do I need a spacer to run the SVE drifts on the front?

 

[TMSBOSS]

Do I need a spacer to run the SVE drifts on the front?

I did not. I am running 285 on front.

 

[Flyboygsxr]

Are you running the 18x10's? I picked up 4 18x10's and some Pirelli 305/660's for all 4 corners.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Yes, 18X10s

 

[drano38]

I have 2 sets of Enkei's, and use Vorshlag lug nuts. I use a Northern Tool deep well socket and it fits fine.
I also use a 24v impact to take them off. Might need to replace them at the end of this season because the impact probably beats them up some.

Steve, does the impact also harm the studs if I'm taking them off with it?
I also torque with the wheel off the ground. I agree, it should seat against the hub/rotor better.

Shouldn't use air tools on your wheels anyway unless you change studs often. I use a Bosch 18V small impact screw gun that maxes out at 45 ft/lbs to run the lugs on and off, then complete torque with torque wrench. Also try and torque wheels unloaded (off he ground) this makes sure the wheel is clamped squarely on the rotor face. I had cases of vibrations due to loose nuts before I started doing this.
Steve

 

[VoodooBoss]

I will contact tire rack and let them know I never received them. Do you think the Ford Racing open lugs will work with the enkei's and SVE drifts?

I'm using the Ford Racing full size lug nuts on my Enkei's with a Craftsman chrome socket and it works fine.

 

[F.D. Sako]

FRPP lug nut part number is M-1012-G if anyone needs it. I think they come as a set of 5.

 

[steveespo]

I have 2 sets of Enkei's, and use Vorshlag lug nuts. I use a Northern Tool deep well socket and it fits fine.
I also use a 24v impact to take them off. Might need to replace them at the end of this season because the impact probably beats them up some.

Steve, does the impact also harm the studs if I'm taking them off with it?
I also torque with the wheel off the ground. I agree, it should seat against the hub/rotor better.

Won't hurt the studs but shortens the life of the lug nuts. What is good about the ARP studs is they are very tough and have rolled threads. The Ford Racing lug nut are softer so those threads are the ones that get damaged before the studs will. I usually break the full torque by hand with a breaker bar then run them off with my Bosch. Always start the nuts by hand with your fingers, if you can get two turns then they won't cross thread. I also wipe anti seize on the studs to prevent galling when taking them off hot.
Steve

 

[further]

I use a 1/2" cordless electric impact drill to remove and replace the lug nuts. They work well with a tight fit for my track and street wheels. Once the drill slows down, you stop, and they never quite get to perfect tightness. I've done it enough now to know about how long to tighten to reach the goal tightness.

The lug nuts will eventually need to be replaced, as the sharp edges will eventually round off. They are expendables like anything else, brakes, rotors, etc. just domyourself a favor and purchase two sets from the outset.

The ARP studs are essential, because sooner or later, you'll remove a nut and half the stud will come along with it, having been sheared off. The studs are easy to install,must hammer out the old ones and use an impact drill to put in the ne ones. Just remember, the fronts and backs, are offdifferent diameter.

As stated, be careful not to strip the studs. You have to get them started on the threads, otherwise, you'll ruin the nut, and possibly the stud.

The quickest method of replacing a nut, that I've seen, is to have your drill with the proper sized fitting (13/16, etc) connected. Place the nut in the fitting, then advance the nut, fitting, drill over your stud. Slowly turn the nut over the stud a couple of turns, then let 'er rip.