Overheated brakes

[cobrarob]

Setup is 13-14 Gt500 calis with gloc r18’s along with the race module and r8’s out back, full tilt boogie backplates/3” hose.

Pads seemed glazed over resulting in soft pedal and non aggressive bite.
Chart says above 800 heat range. Does this look normal or should I upgrade to the 4” brake cooling
Thanks

 

[VoodooBoss]

Were those new pads and if so were they bed in properly? They look like they got toasty to me.

 

[JAJ]

If you look at the caliper and rotor photo, all looks well - the rotor got hot but not too hot and the caliper dust boots are intact, so it didn't overheat. Basically it's a "nothing to see here" kind of situation.

The pads are a different story, although frankly I've seen worse. Usually pads that overheat start to fall apart and these, while they're looking scorched, are still intact with fairly thick pad depth. At this point, I'd just take some sandpaper to the faces to break the glazing and stick them back in and try again. If they weren't bedded before, they are now. To be sure, you might want to contact GLOC and see what they say.

Which brings me to hydraulics. So, when you swapped the calipers to the 2013/14 versions, did you make sure the master cylinder and booster are the right size to operate those calipers? The lack of bite could be a hydraulic mismatch rather than a pad problem.

 

[cobrarob]

Were those new pads and if so were they bed in properly? They look like they got toasty to me.

Yes Rick they were new. Followed the bed in procedure. Weird thing is was at Watkins in May and Thompson in June and they worked great. Didn’t do anything different.

 

[cobrarob]

If you look at the caliper and rotor photo, all looks well - the rotor got hot but not too hot and the caliper dust boots are intact, so it didn't overheat. Basically it's a "nothing to see here" kind of situation.

The pads are a different story, although frankly I've seen worse. Usually pads that overheat start to fall apart and these, while they're looking scorched, are still intact with fairly thick pad depth. At this point, I'd just take some sandpaper to the faces to break the glazing and stick them back in and try again. If they weren't bedded before, they are now. To be sure, you might want to contact GLOC and see what they say.

Which brings me to hydraulics. So, when you swapped the calipers to the 2013/14 versions, did you make sure the master cylinder and booster are the right size to operate those calipers? The lack of bite could be a hydraulic mismatch rather than a pad problem.

Thanks JAJ. Good to know this is normal looking. Sandpapered the rotor/pads already do we’ll see how it goes later. On the hydraulics, the car is a 2011 Shelby so should be in the right side area? I’ve read where with the S550 calis there’s a bigger difference with fluid volume.