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Performance battery

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JDee

Ancient Racer
1,801
2,005
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
5 miles from Mosport
I had a Braille B2015. It is OK under ideal circumstances but has zero reserve, it will go dead in between sessions if you leave any loads on the battery even minor loads like from a bluetooth OBDII reader. I am going back to the big battery, the hassle from this particular battery is not worth the 10 lbs it saves.

No idea about lithium, hopefully we have some folks here who have some experience to share about those batteries.
 
Check this previous thread on the topic.

I use an Antigravity battery and the Morris Engineering mount that you see pictured in the thread. Very solid and tidy mount. The battery I use has 720 cranking amps and I keep it on a charger at all times. I don't drive my car on the street so it needs a constant charge. I have let the car sit for three days without charging and it fired right up but I can't say how it would do in cold weather.
 
304
365
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Raleigh, NC
Check this previous thread on the topic.

I use an Antigravity battery and the Morris Engineering mount that you see pictured in the thread. Very solid and tidy mount. The battery I use has 720 cranking amps and I keep it on a charger at all times. I don't drive my car on the street so it needs a constant charge. I have let the car sit for three days without charging and it fired right up but I can't say how it would do in cold weather.

I just pulled the Antigravity H5 battery out of my car after getting the attached warning. Ever since I put it in (July, 2019), I watch the voltage on the gauge screen pretty frequently. No issues for the most part. Over the last 2 months, I have seen the voltage consistently over 14.5, and at the end it was rapidly fluttering around 15V resulting in the warning.

Now I would not say that Antigravity is bad. I was hesitant to reply to this post because my experience might be just that...my unique experience. Chad at Antigravity was helpful during the initial buying process and sent me a Bluetooth battery monitor for free a while later to put on to log data. Guess what I never got around to do? I'm a class-A doofus. The other thing is, I drive the car about twice a week tops, sometimes go as long as 2 weeks without driving. I never used a battery tender. Might have been a bad decision, but the reason I went with the H5 instead of one of the smaller ATX-20 or -30 batteries was that I wanted it to be more like a normal battery and not worry as much about parasitic loss (thusly avoiding the tender). I'm guessing that the smart charging systems in the Mustangs might not be as compatible with the different battery chemistry as I had hoped for an occasional driver and I should have used the Lithium tender that Antigravity sells.

Another note on charging algorithms: I understand that it is (might be) possible to disable the Ford smart charging and revert to constant-voltage charging by pulling a (blue?) wire from the harness which connects to the alternator. I looked into this when I saw the voltage occasionally going over 14.5V. Talking to Chad, he said that the 14.5V limit in the manual is conservative and you can really go to 15V without damaging the battery. I could not find any solid reference online to this (about 1 year ago). I asked the service guy at the local Ford dealer, he did not know. I called in to Ford Performance tech support, they did not know. I talked to a semi-pro driver at VIR who was driving an S197, he said that he had it disconnected (but was running a standard battery) and did not know if there was a difference between the S197 wiring and the S550.

So...long story not so long: I recommend a lithium battery tender. And if you pull the trigger on the AG battery, send me a PM and I'll ship you a free, new, Antigravity Bluetooth battery monitor if you pick up shipping. It'll probably be <$10, it is small and light.

I might try an Antigravity again. It just isn't in the budget this week. Got a kid heading to college in a couple of months. :eek:

Battery Warning.jpg
 
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756
1,115
TX
I use an AG ATX-20HD and have been for 2 years. It's been flawless and i've run it down until the internal electronics inside it shut it off to protect it from over discharging. I can't recommend them enough. They're also very responsive and a great group to work with if you have questions or problems.

@JP X - unless I am missing it, that's just a standard message that shows up when the voltage gets low from the car sitting too much. I see it 1-2 times a week in my truck since I'm not driving much these days.
 
304
365
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Raleigh, NC
I use an AG ATX-20HD and have been for 2 years. It's been flawless and i've run it down until the internal electronics inside it shut it off to protect it from over discharging. I can't recommend them enough. They're also very responsive and a great group to work with if you have questions or problems.

@JP X - unless I am missing it, that's just a standard message that shows up when the voltage gets low from the car sitting too much. I see it 1-2 times a week in my truck since I'm not driving much these days.
The fist time I saw the message, I had been driving the car for about 1/2 hour. I pulled off the road and took that photo.
 
756
1,115
TX
The fist time I saw the message, I had been driving the car for about 1/2 hour. I pulled off the road and took that photo.
AHh, that's interesting. Definitely not normal. Just looked up the battery and it appears to be part of their restart line. I know a few gents who had tons of problems with those and the GT350 charging system. The move to the ATX-HD models solved it in their cases. But you're the first with the H5, though.
 
I use an AG ATX-20HD and have been for 2 years. It's been flawless and i've run it down until the internal electronics inside it shut it off to protect it from over discharging. I can't recommend them enough. They're also very responsive and a great group to work with if you have questions or problems.
I will mention that I completely drained my first Antigravity ATX-20 battery soon after purchase when I left my lights on overnight and it was not recoverable with a charger. I sent it back to the factory and they revived it. I did it again last year and they were unable to revive it. I was going to bail on another but they gave me a 40% discount (Covid rate?) so I had to give it a second try. So both were my fault but that's the risk with this model. As long as I keep it charged I have had no issues. As mentioned above.....the manufacturer is very helpful which is a bonus.
 
Last edited:
756
1,115
TX
I will mention that I completely drained my first Antigravity ATX-20 battery soon after purchase when I left my lights on overnight and it was not recoverable with a charger. I sent it back to the factory and they revived it. I did it again last year and they were unable to revive it. I was going to bail on another but they gave me a 40% discount (Covid rate?) so I had to give it a second try. So both were my fault but that's the risk with this model. As long as it's charged I have had to issues. As mentioned above.....the manufacturer is very helpful which is a bonus.
The non-HD model doesn't have the protection circuit, so it'll over discharge. I had that one first and did the same thing. The HD models won't drop below a certain voltage, so you should never be able to accidentally kill them that way.

 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
I recently bought a ATX20HD - I've had it cut off after a couple races when hot (though cycling the kill switch would bring it back)

Antigravity's staff said it was only good for drag racing cars and not road racers, to try the ATX30HD - I'm not about to give them more money/sigh. I am going back to a full size battery before too long here.
 
1,160
1,159
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Check this previous thread on the topic.

I use an Antigravity battery and the Morris Engineering mount that you see pictured in the thread. Very solid and tidy mount. The battery I use has 720 cranking amps and I keep it on a charger at all times. I don't drive my car on the street so it needs a constant charge. I have let the car sit for three days without charging and it fired right up but I can't say how it would do in cold weather.
I have been using the Morris Engineering hold down and Anti Gravity battery for a couple of years now. I put it on a tender if it is going to sit more than a week or so just in case. I did have it go dead once when I forgot the tender for about a month.
 
Antigravity's staff said it was only good for drag racing cars and not road racers, to try the ATX30HD - I'm not about to give them more money/sigh. I am going back to a full size battery before too long here.
I'm with you......this is my last ultra light lithium battery. It's like the 100 octane fuel I have to use with my tune....why spend all the extra cash for 10 HP when I just do this for fun. The set up sure looks nice but it's not changing my life.
 
304
365
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Raleigh, NC
I'm with you......this is my last ultra light lithium battery. It's like the 100 octane fuel I have to use with my tune....why spend all the extra cash for 10 HP when I just do this for fun. The set up sure looks nice but it's not changing my life.
I'd like get this to work. Ignoring the price, there really is no easier/simpler way to reduce 23-25 lbs of weight (that is relatively high COG as well). I guess I need to join a gym and get rid of the "COVID-20" I've put on. 😂
 

JDee

Ancient Racer
1,801
2,005
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
5 miles from Mosport
I'm with you......this is my last ultra light lithium battery. It's like the 100 octane fuel I have to use with my tune....why spend all the extra cash for 10 HP when I just do this for fun. The set up sure looks nice but it's not changing my life.
Couldn't agree more. Just so tired of hitting the start button to go start a session and getting a "click" in reply. This is supposed to be fun, and stuff like that just takes the fun part away. The big battery is back....
 
Thanks guys , it sounds like normal chargers won't work with this type of battery
Correct......you need a lithium charger. I have a small Battery Tender unit that allows you to switch between lead acid and lithium so you don't need a separate unit.
 

TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
3,787
2,740
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Brighton, Colorado
As if we don't have enough to worry about getting the car track prepped. I once considered going lightweight too but I'm out here on the track island by myself and the weight savings wasn't enough. Having one less thing to worry about fit my world better.
 
1
3
Exp. Type
Drag Strip
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Las Vegas
I'd like get this to work. Ignoring the price, there really is no easier/simpler way to reduce 23-25 lbs of weight (that is relatively high COG as well). I guess I need to join a gym and get rid of the "COVID-20" I've put on. 😂
I totally agree that this is the easiest way to reduce 25+ pounds of weight. The stock battery in my Mustang GT350R was much larger and weighed over 20 lbs. more than the ATX20HD antigravity lithium battery....but the biggest challenge was safely clamping down this tiny thing in its new home. So we used this 3d printed battery adapter - the best part is that the posts are in the exact same position as original battery so cables lay right on new posts.

1677570741604.png
 
I use a Antigravity ATX-20 HD as well and just finished my latest design on a Carbon Fiber 3D printed battery holder.

Both work flawlessly. Here's a link to the thread on the holder:

 

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