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Picking up my Boss tomorrow

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Congrats on the new Boss! Looks like we're getting a good sized group of them in the Bay Area.

I'm in Morgan Hill and have met fuhrius and 5 DOT 0. How about we get the group together for this years race at Laguna Seca?

I'm also willing to have wrenchin' days at my house. There's room to work on about 6 or 7 cars on asphalt. I do it with the Ford-Trucks FTE website guys and have had 15 PowerStroke trucks from as far away as AZ and OR show up! Good times. ;D
 
I'm down. Which LS race? I go to MotoGP every year.

Though if we have a wrenching day, I might "accidentally" show up in my E30 with a box of parts ;D
 
It's September 7/8/9th this year and I already have hotel reservations. I'm shooting for the June 16th track day at LS with Track Masters. Anyone up for Thunderhill on March 18th? That's going to be my first track day this year.
 
So I pulled out the exhaust discs and I like it a lot ;D but seeing as how I am surrounded by Prii drivers I need to tone it down a little. I really like how it pops on upshifts, and don't want to lose that (ex-turbo guy). I saw the threads with the videos, but it is hard to hear the pops. I can't really hear it at all with the stock baffle. At what size hole can you start to hear it?

Also, anyone seen something like the QTP cutouts but that just has a knob or lever instead of an electric motor? I have seen them before, years ago, but can't seem to find them online.
 
I was thinking keep the stock one in a box and buy one from the guy here. Not that I will put it back on, but I just like to keep the bits. Still have parts for my E30 that can never go back in due to the cage.
 
5 DOT 0 said:
Buy the 3/4" from Scott and drill them out as needed.

The only problem is you need the proper equipment since these are 18 gauge stainless. I'm not trying to force a sale but it would be a hell of a lot easier to just get the two sizes.
 
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5 DOT 0 said:
It's September 7/8/9th this year and I already have hotel reservations. I'm shooting for the June 16th track day at LS with Track Masters. Anyone up for Thunderhill on March 18th? That's going to be my first track day this year.

Looks like we have 2 World Challenge races nearby as well. Laguna Seca on May 10-11, and Sears Point on Aug 24-26.

http://www.world-challenge.com/files/misc/2012schedule-3.pdf

I don't think I'm going to make Thunderhill this time. I'm going to save my pennies for another Laguna Seca day.
 
I have access to the tools, but I rather just buy them.

Has anyone tried using washers as spacers to lower the side exhaust? Mine are a little too close to the paint, but I don't want to just leave the bolt loose to wiggle out. I actually would like to fab a modified bracket so they stick out a little more too, so I can see them. There seems to be plenty of flex in the flex hose to allow it. It would look pretty good with the tips blacked out and visible.


Also as a side note, everyone here is so friendly. I am used to dealing with the morons on the import forums and the squids on the sport bike forums. I guess these cars just attract different people.
 
CaliMR said:
Also as a side note, everyone here is so friendly. I am used to dealing with the morons on the import forums and the squids on the sport bike forums. I guess these cars just attract different people.
Thanks. I suspect the average age of a new Boss owner is at least 40 and some of us are well North of that. You probably have a bit younger crowd on the import and sport bike forums. ;)
 
CaliMR said:
Has anyone tried using washers as spacers to lower the side exhaust? Mine are a little too close to the paint, but I don't want to just leave the bolt loose to wiggle out. I actually would like to fab a modified bracket so they stick out a little more too, so I can see them. There seems to be plenty of flex in the flex hose to allow it. It would look pretty good with the tips blacked out and visible.

I would not do this, you take the chance of the bolts coming loose and dropping the pipe. There are two ways to adjust the side pipes. The two bolts that hold them in place and the long bolt on the pipe itself. The long bolt tightens and loosens a band that allows you to rotate the pipe around for adjustment. Try centering the two bolts first then adjust the pipes with the band, after you find a good height make any smaller fine adjustments with the two bolts that hold the side pipe in place. Leave about 3/8 inch clearance to the floor board.

See how that works, there is a lot of adjustment in these without adding any washers.
 
3/8" seems a little tight to me, I want at least 1/2" maybe because I am used to turbo exhaust temps and even when I had the stock pipe on my Evo it discolored the bumper around the tip (though mostly from fouling as they run really rich stock).

The band, mine is tack welded (maybe soldered, I didn't look to hard) to the pipe. I will take a pic next time I am under there, but it doesn't look like it can be adjusted unless I pop the weld. At least I am guessing it is the band you mean as I didn't see any other.

Adding a spacer, I could put some blue loctite on the screw. It seems like it risks coming loose as much now as it would with a spacer as long as I tightened it and maybe put a spit washer or something before the cap. I am referring to the bolt nearest the tip, the two that hold it are the ones at the joint right? I'm going to open up the baffles a bit and reinstall them later this week so I can get under there and poke around.

33 btw, and yeah I am used to being one of the old guys.
 
CaliMR said:
3/8" seems a little tight to me, I want at least 1/2" maybe because I am used to turbo exhaust temps and even when I had the stock pipe on my Evo it discolored the bumper around the tip (though mostly from fouling as they run really rich stock).

I have taken mine off many, many times 3/8 is a good distance for these but you need to do what you are comfortable with. (I'm no engineer)
CaliMR said:
The band, mine is tack welded (maybe soldered, I didn't look to hard) to the pipe. I will take a pic next time I am under there, but it doesn't look like it can be adjusted unless I pop the weld. At least I am guessing it is the band you mean as I didn't see any other.
That is the band I am talking about, you do not to break the weld. Just loosen and it will turn. The weld is just to keep the bolt in the same place.
 

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