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Please Help. Loose Front Wheel Bearing Nut

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I‘m entered in an Autocross on Sunday, and my 2017 GT was just in for camber adjustment and alignment. They said the front left wheel bearing nut was VERY loose, and they had trouble getting it torqued back properly. He was surprised there is no cotter pin. Ended up using blue Loctite and telling me to “keep an eye on it”. Well, yeah. Nothing to screw around with and I’m concerned I won’t be able to get this resolved in 24 hrs.

I assume he meant the axle/spindle nut? There’s nothing else holding the wheel bearing on right? LOL. All my free time goes into improving my driving - No time to be a mechanic.

I’m pretty sure that’s a one-time use nut, so at best Ive got to find a new one ASAP. But also I‘m wondering what might have caused this that needs to be addressed (symptom of larger problem), as well as what damage may have ensued from the nut being loose? Not sure I can just slap a new nut on with Loctite and go run hard.

Any advice welcome. Is there a better option that the OEM nut? Do I maybe have bigger problems? And is using red loctite better perhaps?

THANKS!
 
Check for play in the bearing hub, those nuts are available from Ford, and some aftermarket sources, lastly, red loctite will need heat to remove so I would just replace the nut/ hub with preferably an OEM unit.
Thank you! I’ve not heard or felt anything while driving it. Is the best way to check for play to lift the car and try to wobble the tire from top and bottom? Anything else to do with the wheel off?
 
I read a LOT on TMO, and haven't posted much, but this post hit me, as I recently found the same issue. While doing a rotor and pad replacement, I noticed a SLIGHT wobble in the driver-front tire when moving it by hand. I immediately thought of the front axle nut. (I had found the "factory loose" rears previously, but had never read about front axle issues on any forums.) I was surprised to find that the nut was less than 50 lb-ft! I also found this on the other front wheel, even though there was no obvious movement by rocking the tire. (THIS is the main reason I'm posting what I found.)

The original and replacement nuts have a grey mastic-like putty on them, but I added some blue loctite for good measure. The spec'd torque is 251 lb-ft. Was extra-glad I found this, as it was just before my 19 y-o daughter's first HPDE weekend. [That's another story, but a very proud Dad watching her go from giving constant passes, to not getting passed, to passing almost everyone within 1 weekend. Ha, and all keeping it in 4th gear, as she wasn't used to shifting. My buddy was her instructor and he had her focus on the driving, so good call there.]
 
349
310
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Bulgaria
Ok so as residual expert on Wheel Hubs (replaced 8 in 2.5 years) let me tell you a few things to look for. First make sure you inspect your wheel hubs from time to time preferably every time wheels are off. Also make sure to change your factory lug nuts with something stronger as the lug nuts swallow from constant torquing and then they start to back out for example my rear left nuts moved from 21 socket to 22 socket because of that witch make them easy to back out if they back out your axel nut is next because your wheel hub actually holds on the axel nut + lug nuts so you want them torqued to spec. Also good to have a torque wrench and torque them to spec 150 lbs after every session.
 
Ok so as residual expert on Wheel Hubs (replaced 8 in 2.5 years) let me tell you a few things to look for. First make sure you inspect your wheel hubs from time to time preferably every time wheels are off. Also make sure to change your factory lug nuts with something stronger as the lug nuts swallow from constant torquing and then they start to back out for example my rear left nuts moved from 21 socket to 22 socket because of that witch make them easy to back out if they back out your axel nut is next because your wheel hub actually holds on the axel nut + lug nuts so you want them torqued to spec. Also good to have a torque wrench and torque them to spec 150 lbs after every session.
Thanks. Yes, Ive got ARP studs and Gorilla lugs. Torque them to 135 ft lbs. I listen for noise from the hubs while driving and check for wobble with the wheels off the ground. What do you look for specifically with the wheels off the car?
 
349
310
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Bulgaria
Thanks. Yes, Ive got ARP studs and Gorilla lugs. Torque them to 135 ft lbs. I listen for noise from the hubs while driving and check for wobble with the wheels off the ground. What do you look for specifically with the wheels off the car?
Yeah just wobble and whine noice when driving also with car on the ground a ticking sounds moving forward to backwords in low speeds is a sign of backed out axle nut. Overall checking them for wobble should be good enough.
 
2
2
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
NorCal
Another route could be swapping in the magneride knuckle. Lets you run the strong shelby front hubs and gain some stiffness in the front axle.
 

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