Poly Bushing Failure at Road Atlanta

[2012-Boss]

If the poly bushing in the UCA failed, there is probably a good chance you also need to replace the bushing in the differential. You might consider having a replacement on hand when you start the job.

 

[steveespo]

Here is a link to the control arm I took out because I didn't like the clunk but now will be putting back in.

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-adjustable-control-arm-555-4113/

I am using that one too Adam, with the steeda mount and the spherical diff bearing. Solid as a rock, no clunk on track, around the paddock see Darren's post above, if you've ever had a Detroit Locker differential you will know the sound.
Steve

 

[cloud9]

Here is a link to the control arm I took out because I didn't like the clunk but now will be putting back in.

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-adjustable-control-arm-555-4113/

That's the one along with the spherical differential bearing that I have been using for 4 seasons Adam. I've put an absolute beating on it and it has held up great. If I haven't broken it, it must be tough : When I ordered it from Steeda they recommended combining it with the spherical differential bearing and I'm glad I did it.

 

[Flyboygsxr]

How did you get the diff busing out? I have heard that is not a fun task. I would like to pull it and replace it. Any advice on how to do this or maybe a video would be nice

Adam

 

[302 Hi Pro]

How did you get the diff busing out? I have heard that is not a fun task. I would like to pull it and replace it. Any advice on how to do this or maybe a video would be nice

Adam

Hi Adam:

Go here: http://www.boss302forum.com/topic/13791-pimp-your-boss/page-50

Beginning at post 983 you'll see pics, tools used and a write up of the upper diff housing bush. You can go a couple different ways here. Some choices are: replace with OEM bush, replace with a suspension energy upgrade bush, or install a bearing, like that sold by Steeda.

If you go with an upgrade bushing, like I did you will re-use the steel sleeve as this sleeve is not sold separately. You will see however that it does clean up nicely. When using heat to press out the old bush, you do not need much heat at all, just 2 or three passes with the touch, then press it out of the sleeve. Also note the position of the sleeve before you press it out of the axle housing. There is a 5-7mm space between the sleeve flange and the housing. You'll see this when you get under there.

Check it out and let me know if you have any questions.
Good luck,
Dave
302 Hi Pro

 

[Flyboygsxr]

It looks like that tool is a must in getting the bushing out. Do you have a link to where I could find it? Thanks

Adam

PS…after having the poly urethane issues I think I would go with a spherical style replacement.

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-spherical-bearing-555-4104/

Has anyone used this application?

 

[cloud9]

It looks like that tool is a must in getting the bushing out. Do you have a link to where I could find it? Thanks

Adam

PS…after having the poly urethane issues I think I would go with a spherical style replacement.

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-spherical-bearing-555-4104/

Has anyone used this application?

Yes that's the bearing I have on my car along with the 555-4106 adj UCA.

 

[2012-Boss]

It looks like that tool is a must in getting the bushing out. Do you have a link to where I could find it? Thanks

Adam

PS…after having the poly urethane issues I think I would go with a spherical style replacement.

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-spherical-bearing-555-4104/

Has anyone used this application?

Several members on the board use that bearing. Your car will clunk like crazy, but it is the best choice for durability.

If you are concerned about the clunk, I really do not think the poly bushing on the axle will fail as long as you have a bearing on the chassis side.

The tool in the link is a Ford specialty tool and is very expensive. You might see if a local dealer will lend you the tool.

The other option is to drop the axle as far as you can and then hole saw and auger the bushing out. If you do go with poly, use a wire wheel and a 120 grit sanding drum to clean up the shell. If you go with the bearing, use an impact hammer to split the steel shell.

 

[Flyboygsxr]

Dave,

Where did you get your tool and how much did it run you? You should rent it out to the members on BMO for a fee, I would be willing to pay

Adam

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Give these guys a call, they probably have it--and will rent it, most likely. http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/Ford-Lincoln-Mazda-Tools_c5.htm

 

[2012-Boss]

You will need:

Adapter 204-034
Adapters 204-590/1 and 204-590/2
Remover / installer 205-813

http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/Axle-Suspension-Bushing-Service-Set-204-S030-T78P-5638-A-204-S030.htm?categoryId=-1

http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/Rear-Knuckle-Bushing-Replacer-Set-204-590-204-590.htm?categoryId=-1

and

http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/searchquick-submit.sc?keywords=205-813

you can also buy the 204-034 adapter by itself here:

http://www.autotoolworld.com/product.asp?itemid=160506&gclid=CjwKEAiAmuCnBRCLj4D7nMWqp1USJABcT4df-97aY48DqOoGUiV2x6Vce6YtUkQVbmxLMUGNB_iO-BoClDDw_wcB

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Dave,

Where did you get your tool and how much did it run you? You should rent it out to the members on BMO for a fee, I would be willing to pay

Adam

Adam:

Just picked up on this, shoot me a PM and I'll send it to you in TN. Then ship it back and we good to go.

You see its just a combination of bits and pieces that I picked up over the years, and cobbled it together from the bits in the bottom drawer of the tool box, so don't have a supplier or link.

Let me know,
Dave
302 HP

 

[Swiss Boss]

Here's some instruction I found so you can make your own tool

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/200/247/247-8017.pdf

 

[Flyboygsxr]

Thank you to everyone for your feedback and especially to Dave. I talked to Steeda today and they are sending out replacement parts to convert the control arms I currently have to a spherical style control arm. You can look at the link to see what this will look like:

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-billet-control-arms-555-4407/

I also ordered the spherical bearing to replace the rubber bushing on the diff housing.

I have always been impressed with Steeda's customer service which is why I continue to order from them. One thing that surprised me though was that the salesman wasn't surprised at all that the bushing failed. Like I said before I have had all three control arm bushings fail on me. I bought these parts when I was just starting to road race the Boss back in 2012 and if I had known what I know now I never would have gone poly on anything. So for anyone out there wondering what they should buy, if you track your car do not go with poly urethane. They bind, restricting suspension articulation which leads to eventual failure. One other thing to note is I believe the sheer heat being conducted to the control arms off the diff also weakens them.

I am actually looking forward to hearing the gear whine now and driveshaft noise with the new control arms I could live without the clunks but whatever. I know eventually it will turn into an all out race car After I have banged it up a little and stop caring about the paint I think I still have a few more years to go on that

 

[DGRacing]

Adam,
I know Steeda's hooking you up with their arms (I run their UCA and bumpsteer kit and diff bearing). I'd double check their use in road racing situations. They look designed more for vertical load than lateral, just looking at the design. But if you haven't pulled the trigger on those, you might want to consider the very stout 302s ones. Pretty much indestructible with spherical ends, and of course designed for our needs.

Just a last minute thought.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-boss302s-lca-0512.html

 

[Grant 302]

Adam,
I know Steeda's hooking you up with their arms (I run their UCA and bumpsteer kit and diff bearing). I'd double check their use in road racing situations. They look designed more for vertical load than lateral, just looking at the design. But if you haven't pulled the trigger on those, you might want to consider the very stout 302s ones. Pretty much indestructible with spherical ends, and of course designed for our needs.

Just a last minute thought.

Gotta disagree with you there. Nothing 'vertical' about that design. FWIW, I wouldn't want aluminum in tubular construction there.

 

[DGRacing]

Yeah. Aluminum is not the strongest metal for lcas. The 302s ones are steel. I'm pretty sure a tubular design is stronger symmetrically than the vertical design of the steedas. By that I mean it's taller than wide and buttressed top to bottom but not side to side. Just my $0.02.

 

[Flyboygsxr]

Adam,
I know Steeda's hooking you up with their arms (I run their UCA and bumpsteer kit and diff bearing). I'd double check their use in road racing situations. They look designed more for vertical load than lateral, just looking at the design. But if you haven't pulled the trigger on those, you might want to consider the very stout 302s ones. Pretty much indestructible with spherical ends, and of course designed for our needs.

Just a last minute thought.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-boss302s-lca-0512.html

My biggest concern is one side is spherical and the other is delrin. How much stronger is delrin than poly? I wish both were spherical but I can't justify spending that much money right now to buy the Ford Racing control arms. Just bought the race spec MGW shifter and some other parts plus another set of tires. Man this sport is expensive but I LOVE IT!!!

 

[Grant 302]

Yeah. Aluminum is not the strongest metal for lcas. The 302s ones are steel. I'm pretty sure a tubular design is stronger symmetrically than the vertical design of the steedas. By that I mean it's taller than wide and buttressed top to bottom but not side to side. Just my $0.02.

I think you're thinking about it the wrong way. A simple 'pin' connected member primarily acts in tension or compression. For aluminum, it just means you need more material/cross section to be as strong as a steel member. When spherical ends are used, any torsional forces are negligible. There are no 'vertical' forces or bending acting on the LCAs.

 

[DGRacing]

I think you're thinking about it the wrong way. A simple 'pin' connected member primarily acts in tension or compression. For aluminum, it just means you need more material/cross section to be as strong as a steel member. When spherical ends are used, any torsional forces are negligible. There are no 'vertical' forces or bending acting on the LCAs.

Good point about the spherical ends. Yeah, I can see how they allow for angular movement without putting force on the arms themselves.
I'm not really sure why Ford made theres tubular and steel. I did wonder when I put mine on why they were so hefty. I just assume its a part that requires it.

Would be cool to see a force plot (the spectrum-y looking ones) of one in action. For that matter, I'd love to see one for every part to know where most of the forces are concentrated on it. I bet we'd find some surprises there for some parts!