Possible bent subframe or any other components

[blacksheep-1]

You can pound on these S197s with impunity..

 

[blacksheep-1]

I've pretty much stayed out of this but a few observations, Don't measure the tire to fender clearance, these front fenders can be bent to come up with almost any measurement, you should probably measure from the inside of the inner fender panel and measure from there to the tire's outside edge, rather than the fender lip.
Another point is that caster is a good thing, at some point (like in the SN97s) you have a phenomenon known as camber gain, which is a benefit to handling.
Why the car is pulling to one side, needs to be answered, it could be something as simple as low tire pressure. Many standard alignment shops never even check tire pressure before the alignment process. I'd try to find a legit race car shop with a frame machine to check the frame alignment, then build from there using a performance alignment shop.. I was scrolling around trying to find some old Boss 302, Pirelli World challenge tech sheets, but to no avail, I've posted them here before, but I don't recall if they have the alignment specs on them, one of these other guys can maybe help you out. I don't know of any shops in Arizona, I'd suggest Phoenix if you were up north.

 

[Joseeevelez]

Interesting thread, but I need to ask two things;

1) What the H3LL kinda curb did you hit to cause this apparent carnage, and...
2) How fast...to do this w/o cracking or bending a rim, popping a strut/top mount, etc???

Might be a good idea to visit a reputable dealer to get a baseline vs trial-and-error shopping for advice at bodyshops and alignment stores...

It was just a regular curb?
I was going around 20-30. And yes I bent my other rim. Nothing popped out, I drove it home that night with a crooked steering and bent rim. Put on the stocks for now.

 

[blacksheep-1]

I recall, back in the day, when we had something like this happen and what it turned out to be was a cracked subframe, it was very hard to find as it basically separated, then went right back together and was hardly noticeable. Finally we raised the car and had 2 different guys look over the car just to get a different set of eyes on it and sure enough, it was broken, but you'd never see it unless you were looking right at it.

 

[Joseeevelez]

I recall, back in the day, when we had something like this happen and what it turned out to be was a cracked subframe, it was very hard to find as it basically separated, then went right back together and was hardly noticeable. Finally we raised the car and had 2 different guys look over the car just to get a different set of eyes on it and sure enough, it was broken, but you'd never see it unless you were looking right at it.

Currently at another body shop. From the reviews I read. He’s very knowledgeable and has a good reputation. I just hope I don’t get my time wasted. Not really concerned how expensive it will be. Just want the stang to run clean again so I can start doing performance mods

 

[Joseeevelez]

Thanks everyone for the help & information! Means a lot!

 

[Joseeevelez]

I took it to another body shop. Even they said they don’t see any frame damage. They said everything was where it was supposed to be. They said the people that did my alignment most likely sucked. But I don’t think they noticed that my wheel sits closer to the fender than the other. They recommended me to another alignment shop and claimed “they know what they’re doing”. That’s what the other body shops told me. Could someone please help me that lives in the Phoenix metro area find me a amazing body shop that knows what they’re looking for! It’s so frustrating. I’m limited at one I can do and look for on my vehicle

 

[S550AZ]

Forza is about the best for alignments. Located in Tempe. http://forza-auto.edan.io/ I have a message into a buddy that manages a body shop in Scottsdale to see who he recommends.

 

[Joseeevelez]

BMR Street K-member - Black Hammertone (2015-2024 Mustang GT / Shelby GT500 / V6 / GT350) - KM760H

The wait is finally over!! Our friends at BMR have been receiving requests for quite sometime to offer a Street K-Member for the 2015+ S550 & S650 platform. Well it's finally here and saves 36lbs versus the stock k-member. Product Features:Replacement K-Member for 2015+ Mustangs 26% Lighter than...

www.lethalperformance.com

Will this fit my mustang? The other BMR k member removed the sway bars. Does this one too?

 

[Sjohnson1800]

Honestly I would stay away from tubular k member for the street but that’s just me I know @TymeSlayer has one and likes it. Im also thinking about a K membersometime down the road, and for me who does maybe on a good year 4 track days a year and some Saturday cruises with my kids the I would get the maximum Motorsport so member would fit the bill IMO there one of the better mustang places around

MM K-member, Mustang, 2005-2014

 

[Joseeevelez]

Honestly I would stay away from tubular k member for the street but that’s just me I know @TymeSlayer has one and likes it. Im also thinking about a K membersometime down the road, and for me who does maybe on a good year 4 track days a year and some Saturday cruises with my kids the I would get the maximum Motorsport so member would fit the bill IMO there one of the better mustang places around

MM K-member, Mustang, 2005-2014

What would be good for my dailying my mustang? That piece doesn’t fit mine since I have. 2019 gt

 

[Sjohnson1800]

Oops sorry I thought u had a s197.

 

[Joseeevelez]

Oops sorry I thought u had a s197.

All good bro

 

[TMSBOSS]

My two cents. You bent a stock and much stronger K member. I would want to look for something stronger or at least as strong as stock.
There are many post with failures of light weight front suspension pieces. Duane had a failure at VIR just last week. If you had a quarter mile warrior, maybe.
Like I said, my two cents, walk away from this light weight piece.

 

[Joseeevelez]

My two cents. You bent a stock and much stronger K member. I would want to look for something stronger or at least as strong as stock.
There are many post with failures of light weight front suspension pieces. Duane had a failure at VIR just last week. If you had a quarter mile warrior, maybe.
Like I said, my two cents, walk away from this light weight piece.

So I’m gonna buy a brand new OEM k member. Don’t wanna do anything aftermarket with it since it’s basically a brand new vehicle still. The part is 700 plus 300 for shipping (1000). How much do you think I’m looking at for a body shop to remove the old one & put a new one. Also, what do I do after getting an installed? A regular alignment?

 

[TymeSlayer]

Being the BMR poster boy I am, I've had nothing but good things to say about any BMR product I've used on the car but I'm not out there banging doors like some others. That being said, anything could go wrong at anytyme. Taking some weight off the front end was important to me when I made the switch and so far, so good with the BMR A-arms, K-member, radiator support and end links. I check them frequently. I suppose if you really drive the car hard, any brand can break, yes including OEM heavyweights.

 

[Joseeevelez]

Being the BMR poster boy I am, I've had nothing but good things to say about any BMR product I've used on the car but I'm not out there banging doors like some others. That being said, anything could go wrong at anytyme. Taking some weight off the front end was important to me when I made the switch and so far, so good with the BMR A-arms, K-member, radiator support and end links. I check them frequently. I suppose if you really drive the car hard, any brand can break, yes including OEM heavyweights.

What type of alignment did you have to do after getting the new k member installed? Just a regular one or no?

 

[Joseeevelez]

Forza is about the best for alignments. Located in Tempe. http://forza-auto.edan.io/ I have a message into a buddy that manages a body shop in Scottsdale to see who he recommends.

What’s that body shop that your buddy works at?

 

[TymeSlayer]

What type of alignment did you have to do after getting the new k member installed? Just a regular one or no?

Used Les Schwab since my Mustang shop didn't have the tools to complete it but basically all they did is max out my chamber to -2.6 with my MM caster/Chamber plates and square up the K-member.

 

[Joseeevelez]

So I replaced the knuckle and hub bearing. After getting the alignment. The caster went up from a 5.4 to a 6.7. Here’s the last alignment I got. My steering wheel used to be crooked to the right. After installing the knuckle and hub bearing. It’s crooked to the left. I even told them to fix it & they said they did. So I gave up and left. But I’m noticing it still wandering to the right even though it’s pointed left. What else could be wrong? K-member is my final solution for this