Post Up Your Lowered Boss Pics + Details

[vista6019]

Vista6019, what wheel/tire sizes are you running?

Hankook Ventus V12 EVO's 255/40/19 front and 285/35/19 rear. Wheels are Forgestar CF5's

 

[NOLIMIT]

noise vibration harshness

PS - agreed with the above, you should definitely consider LCA relocation brackets. Your LCA's are totally angled upwards!

Tks for the input all. I looked into the Whiteline LCA Relocation brackets and have ordered a set to put on when I get home next time. I would never have known about them with out being on BMO!

 

[GR8TOZ]

Mine on Eibach Pro Kit and adjustable panhard bar

 

[batman48195]

Mine on Eibach Pro Kit and adjustable panhard bar

Great photo. Reminds me of my motion photo.
Brian

 

[Senderofan]

Not to go off topic, but since LCA where brought up. Everyone car looks great and I am thinking about the hotchkins sport springs and lower relocation brackets. What should I do for control arms? Adjustable UCA and Non-adjustable LCA, or Adjustable LCA and Non-adjustable UCA or both adjustable.

Thanks
Stephen

I went with Hotchkis....purchased their Stage 1 TVS kit ( found under the Boss area and not GT )...which has the lowering springs and adjustable sway bars. I also went with the Hotchkis rear suspension kit.....this contains new LCA's, adjustable panhard rod and an adjustable UCA. With the Hotchkis lowering springs....the UCA required adjustment to get my pinion angle correct. The adjustable panhard rod works like a dream...since lowering the vehcile shifts the rear axle. I, personally, like having most components from one manufacturer...whether that be Hotchkis, Whiteline, FRPP, Steeda etc. I may have a false understanding....but I figure the components were designed to work together.

Also....I would highly recommend LCA relocation brackets if you're using the Hotchkis springs. I used the BMR brackets.....It has two choices for a new relocation. I used the upper hole.....just below the factory nounting position. My new LCA's are slightly tilted down towards the rear axle. Without the relocation brackets...I'm sure my LCA's would have been higher in the back...which is not the configuration you want to reduce wheel hop.

Good Luck....I think the consensus is.....suspension upgrades seem to enhance the Boss's handling characteristics and feedback.

Wayne

 

[Justin]

Mine on Eibach Pro Kit and adjustable panhard bar

how is the ride compared to stock? same/harsher/softer?

 

[Boss949]

GR8OZ,

Make/Size of Tires and Wheels?

Thanks

 

[four-walling]

FR M-5300-P springs (rears only)
FR M-5570-A jounce bumper kit
FR M-4264-A adjustable panhard bar

 

[further]

Regarding adj UCA and LCA: I'm no expert and my understanding is very basic, so if any of this is off, please be respectful and correct what is wrong. From what I'm learning, as said above, the adjustable components line up the rear once the car is lowered and angles are thrown off.

UCA: The pinion angle, I believe, is the angle the drive shaft makes with the ground. It will apparently become slightly diagonal (or off from the the two degrees mentioned in this video). This is more imprtant with a one piece drive shaft, which has less slop than a two piece. Tightening one of the adj UCA will pull one side up, changing the angle of the driveshaft. Check it out:

[youtube]http://m.youtube.com/results?q=stang%20tv%20pinion%20angle%202005%20mustang#/watch?v=i8FNgaNqS8s[/youtube]

LCA: Apparently, lowering the rear may render one tire to be slightly farther forward than the other, depending on the amount of drop. Shortening or lengthening your adj LCA's will pull or push that side of the axel back or forth, lining things back up to true.

Panhard: The stock is a diagonal brace connecting the frame to the axel. Dropping the back, the stock PB acts like a swing arm, throwing the back out sideways. Shortening an adj PB will line this back up.

LCA rear relo brackets: lowering the back pulls the back end of the rear LCA up. I guess when you accelerate, this will somehow pull the back up, making the car hop. Changing the angle back to parallel by lengthening the downward back attachment for your rear LCA, fixes this. I think over correcting by rendering the back of the LCA to point down, would do even more, by pulling the car down when you accelerate, a very nice plus for drag racing.

My current plan with the T springs is to install a PB, adj LCA's, and fix the two mentioned associated parameters myself. Then I'm going to a performance shop to have the camber/alignment set. While up, I'll have the pinion angle checked and decide if I need the adj UCA's.

 

[Brandon302]

Regarding adj UCA and LCA: I'm no expert and my understanding is very basic, so if any of this is off, please be respectful and correct what is wrong. From what I'm learning, as said above, the adjustable components line up the rear once the car is lowered and angles are thrown off.

UCA: The pinion angle, I believe, is the angle the drive shaft makes with the ground. It will apparently become slightly diagonal (or off from the the two degrees mentioned in this video). This is more imprtant with a one piece drive shaft, which has less slop than a two piece. Tightening one of the adj UCA will pull one side up, changing the angle of the driveshaft.

LCA: Apparently, lowering the rear may render one tire to be slightly farther forward than the other, depending on the amount of drop. Shortening or lengthening your adj LCA's will pull or push that side of the axel back or forth, lining things back up to true.

Panhard: The stock is a diagonal brace connecting the frame to the axel. Dropping the back, the stock PB acts like a swing arm, throwing the back out sideways. Shortening an adj PB will line this back up.

LCA rear relo brackets: lowering the back pulls the back end of the rear LCA up. I guess when you accelerate, this will somehow pull the back up, making the car hop. Changing the angle back to parallel by lengthening the downward back attachment for your rear LCA, fixes this. I think over correcting by rendering the back of the LCA to point down, would do even more, by pulling the car down when you accelerate, a very nice plus for drag racing.

My current plan with the T springs is to install a PB, adj LCA's, and fix the two mentioned associated parameters myself. Then I'm going to a performance shop to have the camber/alignment set. While up, I'll have the pinion angle checked and decide if I need the adj UCA's.

That seems pretty on point for all of the components. The relo brackets also help in road racing and normal street driving since the axle will not hop and the power is actually forced down into the wheels during acceleration.

 

[GR8TOZ]

how is the ride compared to stock? same/harsher/softer?

A little stiffer,

 

[GR8TOZ]

how is the ride compared to stock? same/harsher/softer?

A little stiffer, not bad.

 

[GR8TOZ]

GR8OZ,

Make/Size of Tires and Wheels?

Thanks

Forgelines GAIR, 19x9F with 255/40/19, 19x11R with 295/35/19


Sorry for the double post above

 

[Jeff]

damn i love those forgelines.

 

[BossLady82]

Eibach Sportlines
Steeda LCA's/PHB
MM caster camber plates

 

[VoodooBoss]

I have the P springs also, have you noticed any noise from the rear after having them swapped over? I believe my sway bar endlinks are moving back any forth since they are too long now that the car has dropped.

My complete package includes:

FR P Springs
FR 18000-C adjustable dampers
FR adjustable panhard bar with poly bushings
FR LCA's with poly bushings
FR relocation brackets
Maximum Motorsports camber plates

Because of the poly bushings I have increase NHV but I do not think it's coming from the sway bars. Read more here:

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=2041.0

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Roush Trak Pak / KW coilovers. Actually going to raise the front 1/4" or so and lower the rear 1/4" or so to even her out a bit.
That pic is with 18" wheels and 35ish series tires so there is a bit more gap than you would see on the street.

 

[boro92]

Roush Trak Pak / KW coilovers. Actually going to raise the front 1/4" or so and lower the rear 1/4" or so to even her out a bit.
That pic is with 18" wheels and 35ish series tires so there is a bit more gap than you would see on the street.

IMO, the present gap is perfect
What wheels are those? They look siiiiiiiiiiiiiiick

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

IMO, the present gap is perfect
What wheels are those? They look siiiiiiiiiiiiiiick

Roush Trak Pak wheels, as well 18x10. They don't make them anymore

 

[boro92]

Roush Trak Pak wheels, as well 18x10. They don't make them anymore

Damn, that's too bad.
That's arguably the best car/color/wheel combo I've seen on the Boss yet