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PP1 shortcomings

Hey guys so i've got this Performance Pack GT. Overall, pretty fantastic execution on the part of ford.
I've noticed a couple things i'd like to improve upon but was wondering about other people's experience doing actual track days.
It feels like it doesn't need much but the wheel hop is pretty annoying and it feels a little floaty with sudden elevation changes/bad roads which is not very confidence inspiring.


thoughts?
 
16
15
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Indiana
YOu will get 100 different opinions on this, and lots of guys like to piece meal parts from different manufacturers and hope they work together. I kept it simple and called Steeda and they set me up with a complete suspension package for my car and I couldn't be happier.
 
241
201
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
MD
Have you had your first event yet?
I’m assuming you did the basics like fresh high temp brake fluid and proper alignment.

chassis bracing is a start then struts with springs and camber plates. I believe the bracing will decrease the wheel hop with the dampers and springs fixing the floating feeling. Others more knowledgeable may suggest a different path.
 
51
35
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Atlanta, GA
I'm no expert as I also started this hobby this year and just want to share my experience so far.
I also thought PP1 was competent enough, but once you start upgrading one thing after another, you'll be amazed at the improvements each component upgrades make.

My favorite modifications that I felt helped a ton in no particular order:
  • Steeda's IRS brace
    • Helped with rear floaty feel (But I still have more room for improvement)
  • APR GT250 wing
    • Before the wing, I lost confidence anything above 125mph as my car began to lift like an airplane preparing takeoff lol
    • With the wing, I can now confidently leave my foot to the ground at 145mph feeling 100% planted
    • Also noticed it helped with corner exit stability
  • -3 front camber, -2.2 rear camber
    • I unfortunately had to get the entire SPL suspension package to achieve this $$
    • Initially I was maxed out at -2 front and my tire shoulders were getting beat up
  • Steeda's K Brace, front turn-in is more firm and immediate response
    • I've heard 50/50 on this. Some hate it, some love it.
  • Front sway bar
  • Brake pads
    • I ran Carbotech XP12/XP10 for my first set and I thoroughly enjoyed them
      • Others also start off with XP10/XP8
    • PP1 Factory 6p Brembos are way more than capable, no need to upgrade here
  • 200tw tires
    • Elevates your cornering to another level compared to 300tw street summer tires
  • Corner Balancing
    • This made huge improvement, it's worth every penny
  • Race Louver Hood Vents
    • Extracts a LOT of heat

I think my order of importance would be:
  1. Tires
  2. Pads
  3. Track Alignment (Added bonus if you also can Corner Balance)
  4. Suspension (Adjustable Coilover so you can corner balance, camber plate and/or adjustable LCAs if you can't obtain your desired camber)
  5. Wing
  6. Braces/sway bar

I've also heard of overheating nightmares during the summer, but neither of my trans or diff ever overheated in Georgia weather throughout summer.
I read that A10s are particularly worse with overheating than the MT82s.


Lots of unorganized rambling, but hope it helped even a little bit!
 
to answer the question about my newbiness I've never even had a single track day, I wanna get into it and make bring the family along.

a little backstory, I built a SVT cobra and overshot the Grand Touring mark by a pretty significant stretch (especially when i deleted the back seats).
so I'm trying to really hold off on any unessential/major mods. I think those braces just might be a preventative maintenance item so... they're on the list for sure.

thanks guys. i'm really happy with the car, the idea was to buy something i wouldn't have to mess with and its REAL close to being perfect for me... but here i am thinking of ways to mess with it.

I told the wife i'd give it a little while before i start bolting stuff on but that don't mean i can't get a plan together :D
 
Car is fantastic as is, add front camber, and burn up the stock staggered tires. Throwing a bunch of parts at it is a bad investment. My car had the stock nitrogen in the tires and alignment and lapped most of the "modified" cars on track and several Corvettes.

Wheel hop is a non issue on a road course.
Confidence inspiring is thrown around a lot. Learn how to drive properly, that is far more confidence inspiring. Make sure the brake fluid is fresh and leave the car alone. Out of the box it is far more capable than most drivers are going to be in your run group.

Bring a torque wrench and a cooler with snacks and water. Listen to your instructor.
 
I was really hoping
Car is fantastic as is, add front camber, and burn up the stock staggered tires. Throwing a bunch of parts at it is a bad investment. My car had the stock nitrogen in the tires and alignment and lapped most of the "modified" cars on track and several Corvettes.

Wheel hop is a non issue on a road course.
Confidence inspiring is thrown around a lot. Learn how to drive properly, that is far more confidence inspiring. Make sure the brake fluid is fresh and leave the car alone. Out of the box it is far more capable than most drivers are going to be in your run group.

Bring a torque wrench and a cooler with snacks and water. Listen to your instructor.
I was hoping for something like this, its definitely a better car than i am driver at the moment.
so about the wheel hop, it'll actually do it on the 1-2 shift even. I just wonder if that movement is going to cause problems over time.
it feels like something is breaking every time :D
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,973
4,293
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
A 1-2 shift usually only happens while entering a road course. Chasing wheel hop for a 1-2 shift will likely yield few benefits.
Keep in mind, Tim from OP Mustang sells hard bushings and such designed to remove wheel hop and firm up the suspension, feel of your suspension. Tim is saying you don’t need this. That’s good news in a couple different ways. You don’t need to spend coin on those parts. Tim is a track guy first. Be careful of vender, found on other sites, who will sell just about anything to someone new to the sport.
The best mod for new folks, once their car is safe is Always Seat Time.
 
2020 Bullitt (aka PP1 w different air sucky in bits and a burble tune) I went with the full BMR bushing kit, Ford track suspension kit (magneride), mgw shifter, bmr alignment bits (camber plates, toe links, etc) then apex wheels w 285 / 19s all around.

MGW Shifter (~$500) probably the best bang for your buck upgrade in terms of driving enjoyment. It won't necessarily lead to better lap times but I enjoy rowing the gears way more with it. 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd is cleaned up / much tighter and the feel of the engine vibrations thru the shifter (its a direct connection to the tranny) is just cool.

For lap times / performance, an alignment with lighter wheels and square tire set up is probably the biggest upgrade. I went with forged wheels and shaved about 50lbs of rotating mass while sizing up on tires. Felt like I ditched 2 well fed passengers. The increase in responsiveness, feel and turn in was huge but would I spend the extra $$ on forged if i did it again? The regular apex wheels will still give you some weight savings, are stiffer than stock, and are like $2k to $2.5k less. 🤷‍♂️

The Ford suspension kit is great, although the non magneride version could be too much for the street depending on how you use it. The magneride version was like $900 - $1k, the non magneride like $1.2k. Never heard anything but praise for these kits.

The bushings definitely helped me from a confidence perspective but I could see them not making a huge difference from a strict performance stand point. There's less squish in every direction and there's more communication from the chasis. I can put power down no problem and bang thru gears when stock I would be chirping tires and have the butt wagging around.... which sometimes I miss on the street for the fun / hooligan factor 🤠

My intention was to shift from a super capable grand tourer to a tight driver's muscle car / track weapon, which definitely happened but could have spent probably half the cost and still had a super capable track day set up.

With that said, I've been shopping drive shafts for a winter project 🫠
 
My intention was to shift from a super capable grand tourer to a tight driver's muscle car / track weapon, which definitely happened but could have spent probably half the cost and still had a super capable track day set up.

this is the scope creep I aim to avoid. the car is 98% there. any quibbles I have have little to do with road course work and i'm scrutinizing heavily. the wheel hop and staggered wheels/no spare. i really wish ford just put 19x10's all the way around on these cars or at least 19x9.5's. the staggered crud is fine until you destroy a tire 300 miles from home and it can't be plugged or patched.
 
this is the scope creep I aim to avoid. the car is 98% there. any quibbles I have have little to do with road course work and i'm scrutinizing heavily. the wheel hop and staggered wheels/no spare. i really wish ford just put 19x10's all the way around on these cars or at least 19x9.5's. the staggered crud is fine until you destroy a tire 300 miles from home and it can't be plugged or patched.
Yeah then just get wheels / tires and drive the hell out of it. I think someone else mentioned this but with 285s all around you can't get much more than 2* negative camber on the front without adjustable mounts or some other hardware solution. So I actually lost negative camber when I upgraded my wheels so my tire wear is outrageously unbalanced inner to outer. Again not really an issue unless you're tracking a lot. Highway cruising is fine at 2*, around 3* it's a bit twitchy.

Anyway love the clean look on your '22. Did you option a spoiler delete or is the spoiler not standard for the new models?
 
thanks man, i optioned thes spoiler delete. with the forged PP1 upgrade wheels it really transforms the look of the car. the only options are PP1, spoiler delete, forged wheels, and 301A.

so from the factory apparently stock our cars don't have camber adjustment. I figured if i got the 1" lowering ford performance springs that are engineered for the PP1 struts that would give me a little more negative camber when the time came. then some PP2 19x10 reps all the way around (with a full sized spare in the trunk) with fresh rubber once i wear out these pirelli's are the plan on that front.

whats funny is the thing that sold me on these was test driving a 19 bullitt. i tried to find one, looked at boss 302's, and ultimately it just made sense to order Bluey (the kids named her).
like i said, its a really nice compromise of sport and comfort that I don't really wanna disrupt. I remember when stock GT's were a joke, ford really has brought these things a long way.
 
122
129
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
San Jose
The basic suspension advice for your car is a front swaybar, ford performance shocks/struts and bmr handling springs. Add steeda or vorshlag camber caster plates and that should be a very capable car that is still street friendly.

That with the right brakes / tires will definitely hurt some feelers out there once you learn how to drive the car. I don't believe most people need any more than this, and if you do... By then you will know what you need and why you need it... Not just to throw parts at the car.
 

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