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S197 Project oem plus Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

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50
31
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
socal
Hello everyone. This is project oem+

My goal with this long term project is to maintain the car in its best possible shape mechanically and either fix things or upgrade things along the way that are considered “upgrades”. Most of these upgrades will be from Ford,but not all. Whether that's a brand new OEM boss 302 part or an OEM part from a more recent improvement made on a newer model or parts even from companies such as Cortex are game as well, the point is to fix or upgrade things. Another goal with this thread is to organize and declutter my head and notebook with research conducted or that needs to be conducted on parts, whether that's upgrading something that is complementary to another upgrade or if someone would happen to suggest an upgrade. I will be organizing everything by categories or at least attempt to. Categories will include things such as front suspension,rear suspension,audio system,oiling system,cooling system, brake system, and so forth.

This is technically my girlfriends car. With that said, she knows what she has. She was ecstatic when she purchased the car and became the proud owner of a 2013 grabber blue boss 302. She understands how rare they are and she loves the looks and comments she gets from people while driving it. She also takes it out for spirited runs as any enthusiast would and has racked up a decent amount of miles on it (62xxx). I also drive the car sometimes and don't baby it at all. With that said, the upgrades and improvements that will be done to the car won't matter if it's only done to track cars and not to street cars because it increases cabin noise or whatever other reason, because it won't matter. For example, are 2 way coilovers necessary for just being a street car, the answer would be no, but the boss has it anyway because its a huge upgrade over the oem suspension. The car is not daily driven, so cabin noise, stiff suspension, engine noise, and other things like that are not a concern at all.

I'm looking forward to listening to tips and trips or advice from people with more experience. I have been working on cars since I was a kid and I do all of my own maintenance, I am mechanically inclined. I will be asking questions and looking for opinions from others and at the same time I will try to ask educated questions.

Screenshot_20230213-170744_Gallery.jpg

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50
31
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
socal
Rear suspension
-upper control arm (uca)=deleting
-lower control arms (lca) cortex= waiting to be installed
-axle catch can=planned in future ( currently has turkey baster mod)
-cortex torque arm= waiting to be installed
-cortex watts link= waiting to be installed (street kit)
-cortex sway bar= waiting to be installed
-AST 2 way coilovers (180 mm length, 140 N/mm rate, linear)= installed
-op mustang gt4 m14 stids=wairing to be installed

Transmission
-6R80 swap= already in car. full swap from gen 1 coyote mustang.
-ecu/pcm= brand new ford. has pats delete
-trans cooler= derale (p/n 20541) with fragola ptfe lines
-fluid=currently oem. switching to amsoil ATF very soon
-JPC trans dipstick= installed
-thermostatic bypass installed inside transmission

Cooling system
-mmr billet water pump pulley=planned
- gen 2 gt350 water pump kit (m-8501-m52a)=planned
-samco hoses=planned
-boss 302s radiator (m-8005-mgt)=planned
-enclose radiator= planned
-pencool 2000 and distilled water=planned
-thermostat=oem

Front suspension
-sway bar=oem boss 302 non ls
-k member=oem
-control arms=oem
-AST 2 way coilovers(180 mm length, 140 N/mm rate, linear)= installed
-ball joints=oem
-ford racing hubs with S550 extended arp studs=installed
- caster camber plates= AST
-bump steer kit=nothing installed

Engine
-mmr trigger wheel/pulse ring=installed
-2020 gt500 valve covers= waiting to be installed
-2020 gt500 catch can/drain back=waiting to be installed
- mmr head cooling mod= installed
-mmr oil cooling mod=waiting to be installed
-fake engine noise hose=deleted

Brake system
-13 gt500 front 15" rotors= installed
-goodridge 13 gt500 front ss braided lines= installed
-S550 6 piston brembo calipers= installed
-Gloc R10 front pads=installed
- high temp hardware (caliper seals and dust boots) for front calipers= installed
- front titanium brake pad shims= installed
-13 gt500 14" rear rotors=waiting to be installed
-13 gt500 rear caliper brackets= installed
-Gloc R8 rear pads= installed

Gauges
-boss 302 laguna seca pod=waiting to be installed
-innovate motorsports dual afr gauge= installed in pod
-innovate motorsports water and volt gauge=installed in pod
-innovate motorsports oil temp and oil pressure gauge=installed in pod
(autometer now owns innovate. I have had some really shitty service from them in the last 2 months, horrible.)

Oil system
-2020 gt500 oil pump=planned for future
-2020 gt500 oil pan=planned for future
-oil pump gears= oem for now
-ptfe crank scraper=planned for future
-glowshift m22x1.5 (gs-fa-op-02) sandwich. plate=installed
-setrab 948 oil cooler= planned for future. The oem boss oil cooling setup might be efficient, but its very busy and cluttered.


Driveshaft
-ford racing one piece aluminum=waiting to be installed


Rear end
-oem 13 boss 302 rear end and 3.31 gears with T-2 rear diff. (Currently rebuilding)


Exhaust
-corsa extreme axle backs
-QTP electric cutouts for the side exits
- v bands= waitong to be installed

Exterior
-boss 302s tubular front impact with tow hook=installed
-boss 302 laguna seca style front splitter=installed
-roush side splitters=installed
-oem boss 302 9.5" wide wheels square setup=installed
-race louvers hood vents= waitimg to be installed
-aerocatch hood pins=installed
-oem smoked headlights=installed
-oem boss 302s grille=installed

Interior
-watson 4 point roll cage powder coated grabber blue=installed
-boss 302 laguna seca rear seat delete with x brace powder coated grabber blue=installed
-dynavin 8 radio=waiting to be installed
-boss 302 laguna seca gauge pod=waiting to be installed
-custom made shifter console with grabber blue ball shifter=installed
-custom made ebrake boot=installed
-2014 premium mustang door panels with custom inserts=installed



If anyone would like to contribute or scrutinize anything on this list, I am open to it.
 
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50
31
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
socal
Do you plan on going back to a manual with a clutch?
No, never. As this is her car, I tried to teach her how to drive manual as the mt82 was grinding pretty much every gear when we purchased the car, but she gave up after about two attempts. I was upset about her wanting to go 6r80 at first, but I eventually came around to it. The mt82 is garbage and all of the mods for it are just Band aids. Yes a t56 would have been nice, but keep in mind that she was just learning to drive manual and would have probably burnt the first clutch. the 6r80 isn't as fun to drive as the manual, but its a lot more reliable than the mt82 and there are guys pushing almost 800hp out of these trans, so I know they are reliable.
 
6,400
8,291
No, never. As this is her car, I tried to teach her how to drive manual as the mt82 was grinding pretty much every gear when we purchased the car, but she gave up after about two attempts. I was upset about her wanting to go 6r80 at first, but I eventually came around to it. The mt82 is garbage and all of the mods for it are just Band aids. Yes a t56 would have been nice, but keep in mind that she was just learning to drive manual and would have probably burnt the first clutch. the 6r80 isn't as fun to drive as the manual, but its a lot more reliable than the mt82 and there are guys pushing almost 800hp out of these trans, so I know they are reliable.
For future reference, teaching someone, (especially a female for some reason) how to drive a stick, is like teaching one to use a firearm. It's best done by somebody NOT related to the person, and also someone who is accomplished at the task who is the same sex. Male/females just don't operate on the same wavelength when it comes to technical issues. Probably 80% of the people my wife and I have taught to shoot, were female. Comments like " buying a firearm is like buying a pair of shoes, you have to try on the whole store sometimes just to get one that fits right" would never enter a male's vocabulary. Same with with manual transmissions. I had an ex that couldn't drive a stick, but she had a friend who owned a 70 Boss 302 who was female.... problem solved in about 30 minutes.
 
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50
31
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
socal
For future reference, teaching someone, (especially a female for some reason) how to drive a stick, is like teaching one to use a firearm. It's best done by somebody NOT related to the person, and also someone who is accomplished at the task who is the same sex. Mele/females just don't operate on the same wavelength when it comes to technical issues. Ptobably 80% of the people my wife and I have taught to shoot, were female. Comments like " buying a firearm is like buying a pair of shoes, you have to try on the whole store sometimes just to get one that fits right" would never enter a male's vocabulary. Same with with manual transmissions. I had an ex that couldn't drive a stick, but she had a friend who owned a 70 Boss 302 who was female.... problem solved in about 30 minutes.
I couldnt agree with you more. I continue to learn valuable life lessons. The "wavelength" hypothesis you speak of applies on many different levels, Including when asking her what she wants for dinner lol.
 
50
31
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
socal
just ordered some oem 2013 gt500 rear caliper brackets so I can put the larger gt500 rear rotors. should arrive early next month. will also order some vorshlag caster camber camber plates in the next week or two.
 
50
31
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
socal
The reason there are a bunch of parts waiting to be put on and not on already is because I am having fan issues. The car has a 13 gt500 fan and oem radiator and has melted 2 fan plugs within the last 6 months. I suspect the culprit is the lower temp thermostat that I installed without modifying the tune(170 degree), but I really think that the issues was coupled with the fact that ford royally screwed up by under sizing the wiring for the fan plugs. I believe the wiring is 14 gauge and the fan pulls like 30 amps on initial start up and 24.5 amps continuously. This means that at 3' the 14 gauge wiring can handle a maximum of 30 amps, which is right at the limit. But after a few years, vibrations causes loose connections and degradation of the non tinned wiring occurs and that in turn causes the fan motor to draw more amps and poof, either a melted BEC (fuse box) or a melted fan plug pigtail to melt.

so now I am switching back to the oem thermostat and upgrading the wires to tin plated 10 gauge wires (less than 3') so over the long term, It will be able to handle the amperage well. What I am looking into though is also sealing the connector or getting tinned ford box terminal connectors. Sealing the connectors at the fan plug will help with dirt getting inside and preventing a loose connection from all of the vibrations. The tinned box terminals will help with the flow of electricity and degradation.
The fan plug melting/ fan issues is a very very common issue on mustangs. even the s550 guys are also starting to have issues with them. So at the end of the day its not if the fan plug melts, its when...
 
6,400
8,291
The reason there are a bunch of parts waiting to be put on and not on already is because I am having fan issues. The car has a 13 gt500 fan and oem radiator and has melted 2 fan plugs within the last 6 months. I suspect the culprit is the lower temp thermostat that I installed without modifying the tune(170 degree), but I really think that the issues was coupled with the fact that ford royally screwed up by under sizing the wiring for the fan plugs. I believe the wiring is 14 gauge and the fan pulls like 30 amps on initial start up and 24.5 amps continuously. This means that at 3' the 14 gauge wiring can handle a maximum of 30 amps, which is right at the limit. But after a few years, vibrations causes loose connections and degradation of the non tinned wiring occurs and that in turn causes the fan motor to draw more amps and poof, either a melted BEC (fuse box) or a melted fan plug pigtail to melt.

so now I am switching back to the oem thermostat and upgrading the wires to tin plated 10 gauge wires (less than 3') so over the long term, It will be able to handle the amperage well. What I am looking into though is also sealing the connector or getting tinned ford box terminal connectors. Sealing the connectors at the fan plug will help with dirt getting inside and preventing a loose connection from all of the vibrations. The tinned box terminals will help with the flow of electricity and degradation.
The fan plug melting/ fan issues is a very very common issue on mustangs. even the s550 guys are also starting to have issues with them. So at the end of the day its not if the fan plug melts, its when...
Your answer is near the end of the article


Thread 'mustang 05-09 cooling mods' https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/mustang-05-09-cooling-mods.19155/
 
6,400
8,291
The reason there are a bunch of parts waiting to be put on and not on already is because I am having fan issues. The car has a 13 gt500 fan and oem radiator and has melted 2 fan plugs within the last 6 months. I suspect the culprit is the lower temp thermostat that I installed without modifying the tune(170 degree), but I really think that the issues was coupled with the fact that ford royally screwed up by under sizing the wiring for the fan plugs. I believe the wiring is 14 gauge and the fan pulls like 30 amps on initial start up and 24.5 amps continuously. This means that at 3' the 14 gauge wiring can handle a maximum of 30 amps, which is right at the limit. But after a few years, vibrations causes loose connections and degradation of the non tinned wiring occurs and that in turn causes the fan motor to draw more amps and poof, either a melted BEC (fuse box) or a melted fan plug pigtail to melt.

so now I am switching back to the oem thermostat and upgrading the wires to tin plated 10 gauge wires (less than 3') so over the long term, It will be able to handle the amperage well. What I am looking into though is also sealing the connector or getting tinned ford box terminal connectors. Sealing the connectors at the fan plug will help with dirt getting inside and preventing a loose connection from all of the vibrations. The tinned box terminals will help with the flow of electricity and degradation.
The fan plug melting/ fan issues is a very very common issue on mustangs. even the s550 guys are also starting to have issues with them. So at the end of the day its not if the fan plug melts, its when...
Thank you, I appreciate it. Im assuming that only part 2 of that project (with the wiring) would only apply to my 13, correct?
Yes, your car has " normal" coolant routing. The pin #s may not be the same in the fuse box either, but you get the idea.
 
50
31
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
socal

Yes, your car has " normal" coolant routing. The pin #s may not be the same in the fuse box either, but you get the idea.
Thank you, I appreciate the info.
 
50
31
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
socal
A little bit of an update. The thermostat was switched out for a brand new oem one,pencool 2000 with distilled water was installed.

I have partly installed the s550 brembos in the front,but i need to remove some carbon fiber material from the boss 302r oem brake ducts as its not allowing the top caliper bolt to slide through the hub to thread into the caliper.

Ast coilovers installed front and rear. Im really not liking how the oem front swaybar end links are sitting woth the coilovers so I ordered some cortex adjustable swaybar endlinks a few days ago.
 
6,400
8,291
A little bit of an update. The thermostat was switched out for a brand new oem one,pencool 2000 with distilled water was installed.

I have partly installed the s550 brembos in the front,but i need to remove some carbon fiber material from the boss 302r oem brake ducts as its not allowing the top caliper bolt to slide through the hub to thread into the caliper.

Ast coilovers installed front and rear. Im really not liking how the oem front swaybar end links are sitting woth the coilovers so I ordered some cortex adjustable swaybar endlinks a few days ago.
Cortex = good
Ford Performance = good
 
50
31
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
socal
2013 boss 302 gauge cluster (bottom) and 2013 mustang mycolor gauge cluster (top) been working on a little side project and trying to add mycolor to the boss cluster. Looks like the boss is missing 4 of the soldered led pieces (circled in blue)that change the color of the halo. After I get those pieces micro soldered on and change some setting in forscan, It should light up and work like a mycolor gauge cluster.

20230920_170840.jpg



20230920_172706.jpg20230920_180525.jpg
 
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50
31
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
socal
Just picked up the freshly powder coated (prismatic powders playboy blue) rear end and matches grabber blue pretty much spot on. I picked it up on Saturday morning and already installed the 2014 gt500 caliper brackets (partially). I noticed that the carrier caps felt and looked very rough. I left the caps threaded on so I didn't lose the side and orientation of them and put the diff cover on for the powder coat guy. I'm pretty sure they feel and look rough because he backed the rear end at 460 degrees F for about 8 hours to burn off all of the excess diff fluid. After bugging @blacksheep-1 he recommended that I clean the caps with brake cleaner and some emery cloth and to not forget to use some hot water and a little tide detergent on the inside of the diff so that no remaining sand blast or bead blast material that made its way inside is left there and is squeaky clean. I will be pretty much rebuilding the whole rear end in the next week and will update more later.

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