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[biggsy]

I know we all hate ads but I stumbled across a decent one on FB a while back. Not saying to go this route but can spark an idea for whoever has similar Go Pro issues. A company overseas converts GoPros to have constant power supply and a wire remote you can mount anywhere. They have pretty neat set ups/examples. I’m sure a company stateside can do the same. Just figured I would share even though it may be overkill for some.

Wired-Remote.com | motorsport camera kits

Wired Remote For GoPro. No more missed race footage or wasted battery - control GoPro at the press of a button! Onboard motorsport camera video setups. Race and rally onboard camera kit.

www.wired-remote.com

 

[Ewheels]

I know we all hate ads but I stumbled across a decent one on FB a while back. Not saying to go this route but can spark an idea for whoever has similar Go Pro issues. A company overseas converts GoPros to have constant power supply and a wire remote you can mount anywhere. They have pretty neat set ups/examples. I’m sure a company stateside can do the same. Just figured I would share even though it may be overkill for some.

Wired-Remote.com | motorsport camera kits

Wired Remote For GoPro. No more missed race footage or wasted battery - control GoPro at the press of a button! Onboard motorsport camera video setups. Race and rally onboard camera kit.

www.wired-remote.com

I like the wired remote, that's pretty cool!

This battery door on Amazon worked pretty well for me and then the GoPro app on my phone to interact with it.

 

[flyhalf]

Go pro is one of the most overrated product on the planet. And for us. It sucks. I love the garmin vibe cause is a freaking manual ON OFF switch lol. And super easy to setup for in oard camera (to see out. )
Also if u want external microphone the adapter is a cable. Not a case bigger than the camera (like the go pro adapter)

 

[PaddyPrix]

On/Off switch? If you push the shoot/record button, it'll turn on and start video, if that's where you last left it.

https://github.com/gopro/labs -- The GoPro Labs stuff I alluded to before also does triggering by accelerometer, GPS speed, scripted tasks when the USB powers it on, etc. If you place a simple script file on your card, then when the USB power comes on, so does your GoPro. If you wanted an External mic, and still want to use the full switched, but don't want the hardwire, something like https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Rockstar-Adapter-Compatible-OnePlus/dp/B09F8M9PDG would work as well.

(not defending GoPro per se, I just read the manuals, WHICH ARE ALSO PRINTED IN ITALIAN.)

 

[flyhalf]

On/Off switch? If you push the shoot/record button, it'll turn on and start video, if that's where you last left it.

https://github.com/gopro/labs -- The GoPro Labs stuff I alluded to before also does triggering by accelerometer, GPS speed, scripted tasks when the USB powers it on, etc. If you place a simple script file on your card, then when the USB power comes on, so does your GoPro. If you wanted an External mic, and still want to use the full switched, but don't want the hardwire, something like https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Rockstar-Adapter-Compatible-OnePlus/dp/B09F8M9PDG would work as well.

(not defending GoPro per se, I just read the manuals, WHICH ARE ALSO PRINTED IN ITALIAN.)

How many times when u push the botton and u hope it started. And sometime it doesnt. Or the camera becomes too hot and stop.
Unfortunately garmin decided to not continue with their camera so next will be a gopro anyway.

 

[PaddyPrix]

How many times when u push the botton and u hope it started. And sometime it doesnt. Or the camera becomes too hot and stop.
Unfortunately garmin decided to not continue with their camera so next will be a gopro anyway.

Just funning with ya, its a nice product and most of my Jeep/Offroad friends prefer and have them. I guess they realized their slice of the market wasn't enough to sustain it and the Virb360, and while I don't know if 100% of the team shifted, they likely rolled into the Catalyst, which is pretty snazzy in a market all of its own. Seems somebody smart there read Blue Ocean. The only other competitive GoPro competitor came in focusing on the 360 stuff, which is a nice feature and makes fun stuff, but last I recall it's a strange custom format and seems too fancy for just a simple straight video. Other hard-wired systems get pricy (RaceKeeper) and don't tend to have great video quality, so I guess this is kinda where we're all stuck for the moment. I mean, who wants to see 4k footage of flying rubber strips and bug guts? Nobody.

 

[Theviking]

I know GoPro has as pretty checkered history but their latest have worked very well for me as a track camera. A lot of the issue I experienced in the earlier models have been addressed and the video quality/stabilization was very good.

 

[Hobdul]

How many times when u push the botton and u hope it started. And sometime it doesnt. Or the camera becomes too hot and stop.
Unfortunately garmin decided to not continue with their camera so next will be a gopro anyway.

I bought a DJI Osmo Action 3 camera last month and have been happy with it, mounted on my roll cage. No glitches so far. Reviews say that it should not overheat and shut down, and performs much better in tests compared to GoPro, although it hasn’t been hot enough for that to be a potential issue.

I also have an Insta360 One R (GoPro competitor that has modular lenses, so you can either use a regular lens or a 360-degree lens). It’s a little glitchy, so not sure that it’s any better than a GoPro. DJI interface on the camera is much better so far.

 

[Hobdul]

A good solution might be an OBD II interface. This way you can pick up speed from the car, which is much more responsive than gps. As an added benefit you get RPM’s, throttle position and lots of other data points directly from the vehicle that can be overlayed on your GoPro videos. I’ve had really good luck with this Kiwi 3 from PLX.

https://www.plxdevices.com/Kiwi-3-OBD-Car-to-Smartphone-Connection-p/897346002832.htm

I bought this and use with RaceChrono on my iPhone, and then pull in the data with video into RaceRender on my Mac. The throttle position metric seems a little inaccurate (e.g., jumping to full throttle where I know I wasn’t yet foot to the floor). This could be a few things:
- My perception of throttle position was wrong—that is, I actually was full throttle that early.
- The drive-by-wire throttle is going to full throttle position even if I’m not putting the pedal to the floor. My mechanic flagged this as a potential factor. Note that I drive the GT350 in Track mode.
- The Kiwi 3 is suffering from the limited refresh rate available to Bluetooth LE devices on iPhones, so it’s kind of a staccato update that misses some of my incremental throttle application. I think the only way to solve this is to buy an AIM Solo 2 DL with a wired OBD-II connection, as all Bluetooth LE devices will have this limitation and I can’t find any of the old WiFi OBD-II devices (which are apparently a bit glitchy to use anyway). At this point I don’t feel like jumping up to the Solo 2 DL, especially because it may not solve the issue.

Any thoughts based on your experience with the Kiwi 3? Thanks

 

[67GTA]

I bought this and use with RaceChrono on my iPhone, and then pull in the data with video into RaceRender on my Mac. The throttle position metric seems a little inaccurate (e.g., jumping to full throttle where I know I wasn’t yet foot to the floor). This could be a few things:
- My perception of throttle position was wrong—that is, I actually was full throttle that early.
- The drive-by-wire throttle is going to full throttle position even if I’m not putting the pedal to the floor. My mechanic flagged this as a potential factor. Note that I drive the GT350 in Track mode.
- The Kiwi 3 is suffering from the limited refresh rate available to Bluetooth LE devices on iPhones, so it’s kind of a staccato update that misses some of my incremental throttle application. I think the only way to solve this is to buy an AIM Solo 2 DL with a wired OBD-II connection, as all Bluetooth LE devices will have this limitation and I can’t find any of the old WiFi OBD-II devices (which are apparently a bit glitchy to use anyway). At this point I don’t feel like jumping up to the Solo 2 DL, especially because it may not solve the issue.

Any thoughts based on your experience with the Kiwi 3? Thanks

It seems there’s a bit of lag on each of the inputs (MPH, RPM, Throttle position). Visually you can see it on the CSV data file that pulls into RaceRender. For example, throttle position will stay at the same value for several points in time, and then step up with the next refresh and repeats. The result in real time playback is a bit notchy and non-linear if you’re looking for it. I have almost 200 sessions logged in Track Addict now so I’ve also been reluctant to migrate to AIM like all the cool kids.

 

[Hobdul]

It seems there’s a bit of lag on each of the inputs (MPH, RPM, Throttle position). Visually you can see it on the CSV data file that pulls into RaceRender. For example, throttle position will stay at the same value for several points in time, and then step up with the next refresh and repeats. The result in real time playback is a bit notchy and non-linear if you’re looking for it. I have almost 200 sessions logged in Track Addict now so I’ve also been reluctant to migrate to AIM like all the cool kids.

Thanks, that’s helpful information.

 

[Ewheels]

@67GTA I did get a Veepeak bluetooth OBD (seems the Kiwi is not made anymore) and it works great with Track Addicts. Though I thought it would get mph from there but it seems mph is still GPS generated.
After talking with @SMGDHG it sounds like iphone's GPS refresh rate is slower than android phones which supports what I've experienced.
I may still end up getting a GPS booster so my speeds are accurate.