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Discussion in 'How To Forum' started by Nvrfinished, Jan 10, 2018.
Why use any of it? My calibrated eyeball is better.
Why the smartass response? I was trying to help. I've raced for over 25 years, SCCA GT1, IMSA GTO, Super Late Models touring series, many wins, track championships, regional championships and a track record. I know what I'm doing. Just because you post the most does not mean you know the most.
So rhetorical questions and criticism are helpful?
You're criticizing everyone who uses string and 'makes it harder than necessary'.
You're calling use of bubble levels and plump bobs 'a bother'.
We have race professionals here who actually help. But thanks for setting me straight.
I think the message here is that there is more than one way to skin a cat.
It's nice that we have a place to share our experiences.
I didn't criticize anyone. You just get pissy when I disagree with you. It started with the shim thing and now this bs. My point was digital levels are easier than plumb bobs and bubble levels, (both of which I used before digital levels). And toe boards work very well and are also easier and faster. It is just toe. Its not that hard so why make it harder than it needs to be? That is not criticizing. That is my opinion based on doing my own alignments for a very long time.
Pretty bad ass but probably far more money than they are worth for the majority of our members.
I am about to make a string rack setup from extruded aluminum tube that I can hard-mount to points in the trunk as well as the hood pin locations.
Have a set of toe plates as well (use a couple smooth, thin boards on top of each other for turn-plates/sliders on the front)...that set @racer47 posted is about half the price of what I paid for mine so I'd suggest getting those if you want some toe plates!
Unrelated note: Everybody calm down. You are arguing with each other on the internet. Post what you want to post and keep it objective.
That's not the way I see it. JAJ put up a nice detailed post that included the use of a plumb bob. You called use of a plumb bob 'a bother'. To be clear, I get very defensive over our membership. Seems more like a dig to me than just an opinion.
I wasn't aware you were disagreeing with me in your first post.
Strike two in my book. Thanks for the reminder.
Strike two in my book. Thanks for the reminder. - flower off
Reading through the thin skinned rants. Nice....Not really.
Racer47 You may want to take your own advice. Or just grow a thicker skin.
I don't really care how many trophies you have, how long you have been on track etc... Comments like yours take this from being a hobby, you know, something that is enjoyable to something that is not.
It appears you have something to contribute. Great. Then contribute in a positive manner.
From where I was sitting, you took something out of context, likely said in humor, and blew it up into something it was not.
This is just not one of those sites where guys cut each other down. Just does not happen here....or at least not for long.
Advice from me to you. Assume the comments are positive or at the least said with a bit of humor. If not, Send me a PM and I can send you a whole list of other sites where its common for folks to tell others to F*** Off. Thats just not done here.
Just ordered some Longacre toe plates and a digital angle gauge. Thanks for all the tips everyone.
Couple of comments I should have posted a long time ago but never got any notices of other replies. Still not sure I'm going to even now - I've had other problems using XenForo elsewhere.
If the floor is flat and doesn't slope much, you can "adjust" your camber readings by the amount of pavement slope. IOW, there's no need to be 1/16" fussy here. Or even 1/8" fussy.
There's an easier way once you've determined where the strut tops need to be for either your track or street time. Make up a set of physical gauge blocks that you use as hard stops to strut top movement. Loosen fasteners, move strut shaft until it runs into your stop, tighten. Since you aren't measuring angles (or anything else) any more, jacking the wheel clear of the ground will make this physically easier.
This is about as close as you can get to the "alignment with shims" method you might have used on older SLA-suspended cars, where you either added or subtracted known amounts of shimming.
That said, it doesn't hurt to occasionally check cambers with the measuring apparatus of your choice . . . when you aren't under other time constraints.
I used the Longacre toe plates and Smart Camber gauge this weekend for the first time prior to my first track day. I had an alignment scheduled with the tire store down the street but decided to try the new tools first. It was the best money I spent. I set camber at 4.0 then toe out at 1/16 after about an hour of careful measuring and adjusting. The beauty was at the track when my tire temps indicated I had too much negative camber. I pulled out the Smart Camber tool, reduced camber to 3.5 and went out on track. The car was transformed and I was literally catching and passing everything in front of me. As Norm said, I don't think you need to be super worried about leveling the gauge as they recommend to get the desired effect. I did that in my garage but I can tell you that I just whipped the gauge out at the track, hit my number and it worked like a charm.