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Questions...front PP dust shields with BBK and mythical track/street pads

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Currently installing a Baer extreme 15" front and rear kit on my 2016 PP mustang that I purchased from a private seller. Their instructions, which are the same for their 14" earlier model kit calls for the removal of the Brake backing plates/dust shields. On my car being the PP the front are just the small shield that protects the tie rod end and ball joint. Clearance looks good with it in place. Should I leave it or am I over thinking it and remove it as the instructions say. Rears will obviously be removed as they cover the whole rotor and the new rotors are 2 inches bigger.

Also on this kit it came with either "street" or "race" pads. No other details. Being pretty OCD i searched the internet using the fmsi number 10-DR11-APD-FF and found these were made by a Canadian company called ProMax. No offense the them but they did not seem to be huge in the performance brake world. I contacted them and they were very friendly and said these were their ceramic pads. I’ve never done ceramics in a performace car so I am thinking I want to get these all swapped to a metalic pad. I did pick up on set of PFC Z pads but either need to find another pair or something similar. Any recommendations? And if so what pad should I run front and which rear? Car is very aggressively driven on the street and some track will be driven this year. Don’t care about dust but would want something quiet. I am close to Gingerman, the tire rack test track (more like an auto cross corse) and a new track is being built at Osceola dragway. Thinking a few things.

1. Run the ceramics. Put the Z pads on the front when I track.
2. Run the same as above all the time.
3. Run the same but swap the Z pads to the rear and get a true track pad to run in the front when I do track it.
4. Buy a good combo pad (G-loc gs-1, Ferodo ds2500, porterfield r4-s, carbotech ax6, stoptech sport, pfc z) to run in the front with the z pads in the rear.

The pads are the same front and rear as what is used in stoptech st-60. 1247/dr11 pads. This there any oem that uses this size? Would make it easier to do online searches if I could enter a specific vehicle rather than track down and search part numbers.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
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Santiago, Chile
Not to be a downer, but be careful with the Baer brakes on the track. That, and drilled rotors tend to have a very short life at the track... Some times in a rather dramatic fashion, as in with the disc coming apart in chunks.

What was wrong with your OEM PP brakes?
 
I’ll most likely swap to the solid disks in the near future. They sell the replacement rings in slotted or solid as well as the standard drilled and slotted. Nothing performance wise had me really wanting more, but I found this kit for under $2k and it allowed us to move the s550 pp brakes to another s197 in our group. Any issues with the calipers, or more of a rotor issue?
 
2,199
1,065
Bay Area
Id run the ceramics on the street and see how they fell if you like them then stick with them until you need new pads. I don't have any ceramic pad experience but Ive heard from many other people they are good for the street and dont create as much brake dust.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
I’ll most likely swap to the solid disks in the near future. They sell the replacement rings in slotted or solid as well as the standard drilled and slotted. Nothing performance wise had me really wanting more, but I found this kit for under $2k and it allowed us to move the s550 pp brakes to another s197 in our group. Any issues with the calipers, or more of a rotor issue?

I saw several caliper issues a while back and if I remember right, @Fabman had problems with them as well.
 

TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
3,787
2,740
Exp. Type
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3-5 Years
Brighton, Colorado
I've used ceramics on the street and on the track in my early days. They worked fantastic on the street (Mine were Hawk) and okay but not great on the track if your running HPDE. The more you track the car the more you'll need race pads. I'm running G-Loc R-10 and R-16 now and when I am on the street, they can get a bit noisy and lots of dust.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
I've used ceramics on the street and on the track in my early days. They worked fantastic on the street (Mine were Hawk) and okay but not great on the track if your running HPDE. The more you track the car the more you'll need race pads. I'm running G-Loc R-10 and R-16 now and when I am on the street, they can get a bit noisy and lots of dust.

Pads where the number one reason my car started to see the podium. Huge safety and performance upgrade. Nothing like loosing your brakes at the end of the straight to enlighten you to the world of race pads.
 
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Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,519
8,156
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Pads where the number one reason my car started to see the podium. Huge safety and performance upgrade. Nothing like loosing your brakes at the end of the straight to enlighten you to the world of race pads.
Yes, I burned through several sets of calipers, pads and rotors with the Baer Pro Plus set up and went to the Extremes and burned those up in 2 track days as well. I went to the Brembo club race brakes (4 piston) and haven't had a problem since.
 
Hopefully this isn't too late- track running without the little heat shields will cook your ball joints. I ended up needing mine replaced (all 4) the day after the first track day without the shields.
I got lucky and Ford coveted them under warranty, but that could (and should, in my opinion) have been an expensive mistake.
 
Hopefully this isn't too late- track running without the little heat shields will cook your ball joints. I ended up needing mine replaced (all 4) the day after the first track day without the shields.
I got lucky and Ford coveted them under warranty, but that could (and should, in my opinion) have been an expensive mistake.

Thanks I do still have them and may put them on as long as there are no clearance issues.
 

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