'Race' / lightweight battery installations

Discussion in 'Drivetrain, Exhaust and Electrical' started by Grant 302, Dec 6, 2017.

  1. Fabman

    Fabman Project: "Frankenstang"

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    This is it:
    https://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/shorai-lithium-lfx36l3-bs12.html
    My car is "track only" so it spends most of it's life just sitting in my shop with the battery switch turned off. But for track use, I have to say "so far so good".
     
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  2. JDee

    JDee Ancient Racer

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    So that's a 540 CCA battery and it starts your car no problem? I've been trying to find out how lean one can go on that CCA value without much success. I really think this is fairly cheap weight loss from the right end of the car, I'd just stick the tiny battery in for track days and take it out for DD use, but if I cough the thing on track I want it to restart! Being boosted though, is your compression ratio lower than a Coyote would be?
     
  3. Fabman

    Fabman Project: "Frankenstang"

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    I'm about 10.5-1 compression. So far it's been fine.
    I always carry a jumper box just in case but I haven't had to use it yet.
    More CCA is always preferred, but Kevin bought one of these and wanted me to make a mount for it so the easiest way for me to do that was to get the same battery and make a mount for my car, then duplicate it for him. I guess another track friend of his has run the same battery for a couple years, so it came with a good recommendation.
     
  4. JDee

    JDee Ancient Racer

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    Excellent! Thanks for the info, sounds like it's a workable plan.
     
  5. Fabman

    Fabman Project: "Frankenstang"

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    As always, Your mileage may vary....
     
  6. JDee

    JDee Ancient Racer

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    Totally, as with a lot of stuff found on the interwebs. But it's worth a lot more when the source is very credible and has been there and done that. ;)
     
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  7. Fabman

    Fabman Project: "Frankenstang"

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    Ooohhh....he thinks I'm 'Credible".... :p
     
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  8. spartan

    spartan TMO Race

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    What is the consensus on make and model for a lightweight battery for a track car. (not a DD)
     
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  9. Fabman

    Fabman Project: "Frankenstang"

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  10. JDee

    JDee Ancient Racer

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  11. Fabman

    Fabman Project: "Frankenstang"

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  12. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $665,833 Moderator

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    I wouldn't say there's consensus, but I think one of the lightest lithium variants that you can find would work for track only use. I wouldn't use one that's 16V if you are keeping the stock PCM and OEM electronics. I'd get one that's spec'd for 14.4V to 14.8V charging range and a charger that will top-off in that range and preferably a storage mode that will keep state-of-charge between ~50-60% to ~75-80%. Most Li based batteries will last longest if stored in that range. Storing at a full charge speeds up degradation for Li batteries.

    I have a charger that is capable of doing top-off of a Li batteries, but I went with a lead-acid for cost and reserve capacity / Ah for street and track use.
     
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  13. Black Boss

    Black Boss TMO Addict

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    +1 on Braille. I used the prior version of this on the Boss and have moved it to the Race Car. The newer version has the same capacity but is slightly smaller: https://www.braillebattery.com/index.php/braille/product_batteries/g30

    There is space even with the battery in the same orientation:

    fullsizeoutput_be6.jpeg

    With the Battery box attached to the firewall, Distance from front of Battery box to strut tower is 8" on S550 and would be 5" on the S197, as the firewall is 3" closer to the strut.

    I used the space for a solenoid and positive cable junction terminal, but a pump would fit -- you'll need to extend both battery cables.
     
  14. TMSBOSS

    TMSBOSS TMO Addict

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    Thanks. Extending the cables would be simple.
     
  15. Fabman

    Fabman Project: "Frankenstang"

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    Piece of cake:
    aluminum wire.jpg
     
  16. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $665,833 Moderator

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    Used the same FRP bracket in the Boss. It came with the B2015 kit from Tire Rack for less than I got the other battery from Jegs.
    [​IMG]

    At least this time I put the charger pigtail on the lower terminals: :rolleyes:[​IMG]

    I didn't take pics, but only put permanent reflective insulation on the inboard side and back. I plan on zip tying some on the front for the occasional track day.

    -------

    With the battery tray out, there's a TON of room to mount other equipment.[​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ------

    This battery does need to be charged/driven regularly
    13.18V - Disconnected after charge and 24+ hrs of 13.6V float.
    12.99V ~14 hrs.
    12.92V - 1 day
    12.85V - 1.5 days
    12.82V - 2.5 days
    12.75V - 3.5 days <---add/edit
    12.71V - 4.5 days <---add/edit

    ------

    The solar charging on the FakeR has been working well. I blocked a couple of the cells on one panel to lower the voltage a bit for bright days. Today, it's overcast and both panels are in the windshield and it's floating at 13.30V. Bright days I normally see in the 13.6V to 13.8V range. One panel is enough to maintain charge, but the 'throttled' two panel arrangement works better (IMO) for leaving the same setup regardless of weather. Pushes more amperage over slightly lower voltage than one panel.

    Panel with 3 cells blocked (currently at 2 blocked)
    [​IMG]

    Tested one in the passenger window facing SW and it would extend the charge period, but not worth the hassle and completely unnecessary.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2018
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  17. TymeSlayer

    TymeSlayer Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...

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    Grant,

    I too thought of going this route when my OEM battery died but needed one fast so picked up another OEM replacement at the tyme. I am curious though as in your picture, I see this Braille up close to your Peterson breather can. If you had chosen to, could you have mounted the Braille further away from the can? (To the left in the picture)
    Mine is located pretty much where your's is and the Battery is too close for comfort. My Peterson can is mounted by the cowl rivet from above and it does look like your's is mounted to the firewall but they are in the same general area. I'd actually like to migrate mine to the left a bit more but the OEM battery gets in the way.

    Kirk
     
  18. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $665,833 Moderator

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    Tyme- It certainly could be moved outboard a lot. I mounted it inboard and back a bit mostly for CG reasons. I considered angling it a bit + forward and - back, but I thought it looked weird.

    Overhead pictures might show better than words or the previous angled pics:
    [​IMG]

    With the positive cover moved:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'd be a little more concerned if I used the plastic rivet instead of the nylock nut and bolt to mount the breather.
     
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  19. TymeSlayer

    TymeSlayer Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...

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    Thanks Grant.
    My can actually touches the red terminal boot and I can see some evidence of rubbing, thus the reason I asked. I'm just not comfortable with the way it's set up right now and there's no moving the battery any further to the sidewall. By the way, I use the push rivet to hold it in place but removed the pin and use an black oval head sheet metal screw to secure the rivet in place. It holds the bracket nice and tight.
    Even though I have a new OEM battery, I mat still go this Braille route as well.
     
  20. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $665,833 Moderator

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    If it's still in there, you could remove the spacer/block on the outboard side and I think the battery should move up to another inch outboard. Otherwise, it might be easier to make the breather sit just a bit more inboard. Tweaking the T-bolt clamp, bracket and the AN hose might help pull it in enough.

    I didn't have any rubbing with the breathers in either car when they had the OEM batteries in.
     

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