RBDETT's '12 Boss autox/track build thread

[rb26dett95]

I had to dig to find the warrenty which is not very good for the price you pay for this battery.

Warranty (from their site) is 0-12 mo. = 100%, 13-24 mo. = 50% , 25-36 mo. = 35% (no better than AGM batteries)

Tim

Agreed, although since I got it through amazon their return policy isn't bad. We will see how this battery does but it is cheaper and lighter than a PC680 and MUCH cheaper than the similar spec'd Braille battery. Hopefully the car won't have to be push started too often

 

[Budget Boss]

Agreed, although since I got it through amazon their return policy isn't bad. We will see how this battery does but it is cheaper and lighter than a PC680 and MUCH cheaper than the similar spec'd Braille battery. Hopefully the car won't have to be push started too often

It's about $100 more than the last PC680 I got for my winch inside my trailer. However, it is a lot lighter. Just make sure you mount it in the trunk to keep it away from the engine heat or the capacity will be severely diminished.

 

[rb26dett95]

It's about $100 more than the last PC680 I got for my winch inside my trailer. However, it is a lot lighter. Just make sure you mount it in the trunk to keep it away from the engine heat or the capacity will be severely diminished.

Wow that is cheap then! I'm not mounting it in the trunk and will trickle charge it when not running (the car gets driven maybe once or twice a week) and also hope the tiger hood and cooling mods will keep underhood temps down. Either way we will find out!

 

[Budget Boss]

Wow that is cheap then! I'm not mounting it in the trunk and will trickle charge it when not running (the car gets driven maybe once or twice a week) and also hope the tiger hood and cooling mods will keep underhood temps down. Either way we will find out!

It will be interesting to see how it does with the Tiger racing hood. The PC 680 handles the heat way better than the Lithium batteries. However, if you need to put it in the trunk the stock battery would be best because you are transferring weight from the front to the rear and lowering where the weight sits in the car.

That being said it's all about what spec you're building your car to. I do not know anything about the AutoX classifications or build specs. I am stuck running 9.4:1 ratio (for now) because I built the car for NASA ST3, so if I loss weight I need to lose HP too. Can't wait to see the pictures.

 

[further]

Monster setup indeed. Could you elaborate on the difficulties with the 302s front control arms, and did you change the steering rack?

 

[rb26dett95]

Monster setup indeed. Could you elaborate on the difficulties with the 302s front control arms, and did you change the steering rack?

The arms come with a grease fitting that is often improperly placed (it intrudes too far into the bushing area) and needs to be ground down after a test fitting of the bushings. It is a time consuming process to get those bushings in and properly fitted to the arms. If you go this route make sure the vendor is giving you the proper Boss 302S bushings and NOT the Prothane ones because there is a difference.

I decided not to change the steering rack, as I've been running some really grippy tires in fairly fast conditions without any sort of steering rack/EPAS errors.

 

[further]

The arms come with a grease fitting that is often improperly placed (it intrudes too far into the bushing area) and needs to be ground down after a test fitting of the bushings. It is a time consuming process to get those bushings in and properly fitted to the arms. If you go this route make sure the vendor is giving you the proper Boss 302S bushings and NOT the Prothane ones because there is a difference.

I decided not to change the steering rack, as I've been running some really grippy tires in fairly fast conditions without any sort of steering rack/EPAS errors.

Thank you for the response.

That's excellent news concerning the steering rack, as I'm considering this modification myself. Are you saying that Prothane makes different bushings and that they make one particular one design for the 302s arms, or did you simply use the FRPP 302s bushings?