Re: Front Wheel Spats For 2012 Boss with WC Splitter

Discussion in 'Boss 302 and S197 Technical Forum' started by VoodooBoss, Feb 19, 2015.

  1. 06mach1

    06mach1 TMO Addict

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    Re: Front Wheel Spats

    Rick, how about drilling an taping into the splitter and using a couple of small machine screws to hold the lower portion of the spat to the splitter. That would get rid of the aluminum angle and make the install cleaner looking (IMO). The splitter is quite thick. I would also be in for a set. Mike
     
  2. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    Re: Front Wheel Spats

    A few notes and responses to some of the comments.

    I made these mostly for looks so much of what I’ll say is subjective. After seeing several Z/28’s and new Z/06’s in person I thought the way the spats were installed look good. Any aero benefit is a plus.

    I think blocking off the opening where the fender/valance/splitter join should help aero and keep some air out of the wheel well. Going up higher couldn’t hurt but I don’t think there’s much to gain. Download and zoom in on the photo I posted with my son holding a straight edge against the fender and you’ll see by starting at the edge of the WC splitter and going higher adds very little surface area. This would be different using a LS splitter or going wider beyond the edge of the splitter. I want this to look as “factory” as possible and I’m not looking for an aero monster like the Vorschlag S197 race car.

    With regards to the WC and LS splitters keep in mind it’s more important to have a splitter close to the ground than it is having it larger. Hence previous discussions about making a 1” spacer to lower the splitter as seen on many WC and AI race cars.

    I think the spat looks better being vertical or as close as possible to vertical. I played around with a longer piece of poster board and looked at several angles relative to the edge of the splitter and fender including going up to the bumper seam. Where I ended up is what looked good to me. YMMV

    I did look at screwing the spat to the back of the splitter and may still do that. The splitter is approximately 10mm thick. Two small screws are all that’s needed. My goal is to not drill any holes. Additionally there’s a slight gap from the back edge of the splitter to the back edge of the fender. In other words the splitter goes back beyond the edge of the fender. I am trying to fill in the gap a bit by keeping the spat on top of the splitter rather than behind it. The smooth side of the splitter and spat is as smooth as glass and the 3M Auto adhesive tape should hold well. I’ll initially use the tape at the top edge of the spat and attach it to the fender lip. If that doesn’t hold then I’ll use a small screw. I have some Plasti Dip and will paint the aluminum brackets black with it. The bracket is 1/16” think so it shouldn’t be too noticeable.

    You can easily make your own template by using poster board, I got mine from Staples. Start off cutting a rectangular piece close to what you want to use and tape it into place. Then rub your fingers over the edge of the inner fender lip and two screw holes and cut and drill accordingly. It won’t take you long at all. I used a Dremel Trio to cut mine and the ABS plastic cuts like butter. I would use 1/8” ABS not the 3/32” I bought. Once I have mine fully installed I’ll use them as a template to make another thicker set. While I think the 3/32” will work fine it’s a bit wimpy looking and I think the scale of 1/8” will look more appropriate for this application.
     
  3. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    Re: Front Wheel Spats

    Bolted on. I've decided against using tape and will use one screw to secure the top of the spat to the fender lip and two to attach to the splitter. I'm going to buy the 1/8" material later this week and redo them so they can be mounted to the splitter. The material will be large enough to mock it up close to the bumper seam so others can see what it will look like. I'll be changing brake pads this weekend and will get it all finished when I have the wheels off.

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  4. DGRacing

    DGRacing Darren

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    Re: Front Wheel Spats

    Looks great. Can't wait for my ABS plastic to arrive. Any concern about the screws jiggling out and puncturing the tire? Since that spat will have forces buffeting it?
    I might use rivets.
     
  5. ford20

    ford20 TMO Addict

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    Re: Front Wheel Spats

    I was just looking at the picture of the Z/28 you posted up before. Does anyone know why the spats stick out further than the air deflector or maybe have an idea why? Just curious about that portion of it.
     
  6. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    Re: Front Wheel Spats

    They are covering the whole front of the wheel for better aero. You’d be able to go wider and cover more of the wheel with the LS splitter. I think even the small spats I’m making will keep some of the air out of the fender well which should in theory improve downforce by decreasing the lift. That’s how the Tiger Racing hood works by decreasing lift.

    I just watched the EVO video on the new Porsche GT3 RS and the Porsche engineer stated that the fender vents in the car DOUBLED the downforce on the front end and allowed them to use a larger higher wing on the rear for more downforce to maintain balance.
     
  7. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    Re: Front Wheel Spats

    I picked up some 1/8" Thats longer to see what it looks like. My initial impression hasn't changed. Using the WC splitter there's not much to gain going higher. The 1/8 is the way to go.
     
  8. Roadhouse

    Roadhouse Logan

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    Re: Front Wheel Spats

    Prototype looks good, Rick
     
  9. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    Re: Front Wheel Spats

    I caved to peer pressure and went with longer spats that meet up just shy of the bumper seam. ;D There wasn't much to be gained but I got the angle to blend in a bit better with the fender line. The second photo shows the spat before I trimmed it. I used two plastic push pins to secure the top instead of screws. There's really not much to screw into and this will keep from stripping out the hole. Plus when you remove the spats you can use two more pins to plug the holes.

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  10. TMSBOSS

    TMSBOSS TMO Addict

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    Re: Front Wheel Spats

    Very clean looks

    Overall length?
     
  11. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    Re: Front Wheel Spats

    The cut pieces were 19.5" x 3.5" before I cut them to match the fender lip. Problem with longer pieces is the cost to ship goes up. Mine are ready for the track and I'll test them out next weekend to see how they hold up at 130+ mph.
     
  12. superhero

    superhero TMO Addict

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    Re: Front Wheel Spats

    now thats what I'm talking about. they look so much better. Real nice job!!
    How long before your order banks open up... ::)
     
  13. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    I'd also purchase the screws and push pins so they would be ready to install. I'm not planning on making any money on these and they will be a one time offer. The cost should be right around $22 delivered but could change. I'll create a separate order thread. I can make up some sets and ship them out but here are a few things to consider:

    1a. They will not be predrilled. I found from my first template that the splitter was not perfectly centered. So while I made both sides the same one side stuck out past the end of the splitter by about 2mm. You'll need to make a template of your own for each side and determine where the holes should be drilled.

    1b. You'll need to drill two holes in the splitter and I suggest drilling them before you make holes in the spat. You need to have them as close to center in the vertical plane as possible. There is not much room for error.

    1c. If I did drill the holes I guarantee they won't fit perfectly! ;)

    2. Shipping is going to be the most expensive part. Because of the length they won't fit into a regular USPS flat rate envelope. I might be able to roll them up to fit into a medium flat rate box but again that will be the largest expense.

    3. I can purchase the plastic push pins but the hardware store didn't have that many. I'll check my local Autozone to see what they have.

    4. I'll post specific instructions on how I made the template with drill bit sized and recommendations on where to drill the top two holes.

    5. These are designed for a 2012 Boss 302 with the WC splitter. I have no idea how they will fit on a 2013 Boss 302 with the stock LS splitter. If you're using the LS splitter on a 2012 you'll want larger (wider) ones. My instructions will enable you to make them for any size splitter or year car.

    6. They won't be available for shipping until mid April due to some travel I have planned.
     
  14. steveespo

    steveespo Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child Moderator

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    Rick do you have your template? I could cut my own, maybe you can charge a license fee for your pattern? :)
    Steve
     
  15. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    With some poster board you'll have your own template in five minutes. For the WC splitter cut a 3.5" x 19.5" piece of poster board and tape it at the bottom of the splitter. Then you'll attach the upper piece with the outer edge aligning with the fender edge. You can adjust the angle to your liking. Rub your finger nail along the edge of the bumper on the inside and around the two existing bolts for where you'll make your drill holes. Cut out your template and apply it to the 1/8" ABS plastic sheet. If you purchase the plastic locally have them cut two 3.5" x 19.5" pieces. I used a Dremel Trio to cut the curve but a jigsaw or other saw with a fine blade should work just fine. This plastic is relative soft and easy to work with.
     
  16. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    Can someone with a 2013 Boss with a LS or 302S splitter take a measurement for me. Measure how wide the rear of the splitter is where it meets the wheel well and lower valance. See below. For example on a 2012 WC splitter it's 3.5" wide. I believe there is only one splitter on a 2013 where the 2012's had two sizes of splitters. TIA

    http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=22733

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  17. ls110

    ls110 John

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    Rick - I measured my splitter on 2012 LS. It measured 1-5/8". Does that make sense with the other splitters you have measured? Am I correct this is enough of a departure from the WC splitter that I should plan to cut my own splat?
     
  18. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    I asked Rob what he thought of this project and if he thought it was worth doing and here's his response:

    @blacksheep-1

    I would say yes, without the winglets and end plates. in the kart days we would aero up anything over 50 mph average race speed, under that we'd rely solely on mechanical grip. In the rain this past weekend (PWC @ COTA) we (Phoenix Performance) were all over the aero on all the cars, mustangs and the porsche, and it made a big difference, unfortunately there is nothing to adjust on the fronts because the splitter is stationary, but that in itself adds quite a bit of downforce. Also , you must realize that the air over the tire is not measured the same way as aero over the body because the wheel is traveling (the top of the wheel anyway) much faster than the car itself. As an example, IMSA wanted to slow down the p1 cars, so they exposed the tire tops...major drag was created."
     
  19. Swiss Boss

    Swiss Boss TMO Addict

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    Also when you have cut them to your liking, put them into the oven @200F for a few minutes. You'll be able to shape them to follow your wheel arch nicely and won't put any excessive pressure on the screws holding in it place.
     
  20. Swiss Boss

    Swiss Boss TMO Addict

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    I finished mine tonight.
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    I used 1/4" ABS which was some left over from my custom splitter (about the same size as a WC).
    The dimension are 3,5"@bottom, 3/4"@top and 18"@height
    I used 1/4" plastic rivet from Autozone #799-146 for the big one and #961-050 for the small one at the top. Then it's glued where it connect to the splitter.
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    I also bend it to shape the wheel arch so it doesn't put to much pressure on the rivets
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