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Rear Brake Cooling Options

17
10
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
FL
Hi Folks - just wondering if anyone has incorporated more active rear braking cooling on GTs and whether that is needed. 2020 stock PP1, A10.

I took out my OEM rear pads after ~5 good sessions. Pretty even wear down almost to the backing plates. Granted it just OEM, so can't expect much but still surprised. Never seen rear pads go that quickly. Front OEM pads worn down as well with an incredible amount of taper (LE to TE of the pad, ~0.300+ of taper). Never seen front pads look like that. I'm thinking maybe the stability control was coming on in the rear and just cooked the fronts. Thoughts? Ran in the "sport" mode (only have 3 modes, ON, Sport, OFF). Will certainly be stepping up to track pads for the next event. Just figured I would try stock. Got the answer I expected.

Would appreciate some thoughts on cooling the rear brakes. Will look to modify or remove the splash plates on the rear and replace the front splash plates with the -H "shorty" design. But just wondering if you experience track guys have found the need and benefit of more active rear brake cooling and if so, what seems to work. Thanks.
 
1,021
956
In the V6L
Hi Folks - just wondering if anyone has incorporated more active rear braking cooling on GTs and whether that is needed. 2020 stock PP1, A10.

I took out my OEM rear pads after ~5 good sessions. Pretty even wear down almost to the backing plates. Granted it just OEM, so can't expect much but still surprised. Never seen rear pads go that quickly. Front OEM pads worn down as well with an incredible amount of taper (LE to TE of the pad, ~0.300+ of taper). Never seen front pads look like that. I'm thinking maybe the stability control was coming on in the rear and just cooked the fronts. Thoughts? Ran in the "sport" mode (only have 3 modes, ON, Sport, OFF). Will certainly be stepping up to track pads for the next event. Just figured I would try stock. Got the answer I expected.

Would appreciate some thoughts on cooling the rear brakes. Will look to modify or remove the splash plates on the rear and replace the front splash plates with the -H "shorty" design. But just wondering if you experience track guys have found the need and benefit of more active rear brake cooling and if so, what seems to work. Thanks.
Two factors are combining to burn through your rear brakes - OEM pads and stability control. AdvanceTrak works the rear brakes hard unless you have it either off or in Track mode. OEM pads make it worse, not because they're bad pads (they aren't) but because they're not really intended for that duty cycle.

If your car has no "Track" mode, then run in OFF. Swap out the pads front and rear to a track pad, and run as little stability control as you can and things will improve. There are lots of other threads on this forum on how to swap parts to improve the front brakes - Vorshlag deflectors are a great start.
 
17
10
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
FL
Two factors are combining to burn through your rear brakes - OEM pads and stability control. AdvanceTrak works the rear brakes hard unless you have it either off or in Track mode. OEM pads make it worse, not because they're bad pads (they aren't) but because they're not really intended for that duty cycle.

If your car has no "Track" mode, then run in OFF. Swap out the pads front and rear to a track pad, and run as little stability control as you can and things will improve. There are lots of other threads on this forum on how to swap parts to improve the front brakes - Vorshlag deflectors are a great start.
Thanks for the input, JAJ. Unfortunately I don't have the Info3 packaging on my car, so the "Track" features are not available. I have wondered if I could pay Ford to install the track software w/o the larger display, etc, so I could have the track features. But for now, OFF is it. Never have run w/o the stability control on this or my previous track car (C7 Z06), ... too chicken. So will be an interesting experience and hopefully uneventful.

I have read a bit about cooling the front brakes. I have the factory PP1 deflects, but also the factory splash shields which make the deflectors totally ineffective. Hence I will change those to the -H splash shields which are essentially wide open. Only $13/each to protect the joints at 2 locations. Probably the most cost effective mod ever 🙂. Will find some info on how the Vorshlag deflectors compare to the stock PP1. Track pads coming for sure.

@carver. Thanks, good to know that Ford suggests to remove the splash shields. Have to believe the S550 is not any different than the S197 in that regard. So on the rear, I will remove. Just curious how big of a mess the dust will make w/o the shield. I guess I will find out.
 
528
354
sfo
The problem is using TC as others posted. The PP1 fronts are perfect with zero taper. I think your taper problem is not the right heat rejection either in cooling or the pads heat capacity. All I do is race the S550. No street miles. Giant home made deflectors like vorshlag and no backing plates. Real 2 piece floating PFC V3 rotors slotted. real race brake pads that I just changed because I wore them out. Al that makes a difference.

20211205_140923.jpg

20211205_140902.jpg
 
17
10
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
FL
The problem is using TC as others posted. The PP1 fronts are perfect with zero taper. I think your taper problem is not the right heat rejection either in cooling or the pads heat capacity. All I do is race the S550. No street miles. Giant home made deflectors like vorshlag and no backing plates. Real 2 piece floating PFC V3 rotors slotted. real race brake pads that I just changed because I wore them out. Al that makes a difference.

View attachment 70728

View attachment 70729
Good to know, Bob. Thanks for the tips and for sharing your experience. Those pads look great compared to mine. Literally had one end near metal and the other at 0.310" (new is 0.385"). Shocking amount of taper.

I agree with you. Likely a combo of overheating and low temp OEM pad just hammered the front. And TC/ESC on the rear.. Backing plate change coming soon and more defector on the front and backing plate off on the rear.

If I'm not overheating the engine or diff or tranny or oil, it's the brakes. These GT's are tough and need some major work to make them track worthy. But that's okay, look at all the fun we get to have learning new "stuff". I just like to ignore the money part, makes me feel better that way ;).
 
174
175
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
NC
Maybe I'm just lucky but I don't think they need much. My Bullitt has springs, camber plates, the Vorshlag brake deflectors, and race pads front and rear. Other than the big 305 tire wheel combo , that's it. Pads wear evenly, but like others have said, try running without the TC on which should improve pad wear. Good luck and track on!
 
Thanks for the input, JAJ. Unfortunately I don't have the Info3 packaging on my car, so the "Track" features are not available. I have wondered if I could pay Ford to install the track software w/o the larger display, etc, so I could have the track features. But for now, OFF is it. Never have run w/o the stability control on this or my previous track car (C7 Z06), ... too chicken. So will be an interesting experience and hopefully uneventful.

I have read a bit about cooling the front brakes. I have the factory PP1 deflects, but also the factory splash shields which make the deflectors totally ineffective. Hence I will change those to the -H splash shields which are essentially wide open. Only $13/each to protect the joints at 2 locations. Probably the most cost effective mod ever 🙂. Will find some info on how the Vorshlag deflectors compare to the stock PP1. Track pads coming for sure.

@carver. Thanks, good to know that Ford suggests to remove the splash shields. Have to believe the S550 is not any different than the S197 in that regard. So on the rear, I will remove. Just curious how big of a mess the dust will make w/o the shield. I guess I will find out.
FWIW even though I have only participated in 1 HPDE I quickly reached the limits of "sport" mode. The back rotors were considerably hotter than the front. The car would pull HP and would I think would go into "limp mode" and wouldn't respond to throttle in certain situations. It's really scary to have a car do weird stuff in or coming out of a corner. With everything off the car is responsive and can be managed with feathering the throttle. My instructor said with my setup I was fine with everything I was doing and the way the car was performing - the computer didn't think so and was overriding the cars capabilities. On and off is a completely different world. I think you will find out very quickly that you are happier with it off only after a couple laps.
 
17
10
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
FL
Maybe I'm just lucky but I don't think they need much. My Bullitt has springs, camber plates, the Vorshlag brake deflectors, and race pads front and rear. Other than the big 305 tire wheel combo , that's it. Pads wear evenly, but like others have said, try running without the TC on which should improve pad wear. Good luck and track on!
Glad it's been working for you. That's great. Wish I could say the same. Nothing has worked, actually. Stock 2020 PP1, A10.

1st event, overheated the engine, oil, and diff. The only thing that didn't overheat was the A10. Only ran 2 sessions.

2nd event over heated the engine and oil again after replacing defective OEM t-stat. Diff mods worked. Trans okay. Plenty of head scratching why the cooling issues. 3 sessions.

3rd event finally reasonable temps after sealing the radiator and modifing the fan shroud (241F CHT, 227 ECT, 280 oil, 251 diff, 228F trans) but the brakes were gone, frt and rear. Pushes badly, has some mid corner oversteer, corner exit oversteer (3rd gear is low), can't handle transitions or the slighest bump while turning. Spun the car ~mid corner and went off track. Thank goodness I didn't hit anything. Pushing to hard and couldn't catch it. Just poor driving with a bit of frustration at the lack of grip.

Modifing the suspension (FP struts, BMR springs/bars, Camber plates, -3/-2 deg alignment F/R), brakes (track pads), tires (305 RE71 square), and adding a hood vent/louver. Hopefully the car will be more behaved and have some grip. Next event in Jan (year round track fun in FL).

@Kaz, TC will be off from now on. I hope you are right, that it will be easy to handle. I will plan to go out soft ... but I say that for every event. Maybe I will listen to myself this time around.

In the end, still an awesome hobby .... even with all the car issues. This GT has some potential. Will never be like my last car but this one is 1/2 price :).
 
174
175
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
NC
Let’s hope with the suspension and square tire upgrades, that will solve your handling ills. Being a PP1 it should have the small shields like my Bullitt. The Vorshlag brake deflectors should take the place of the factory deflectors.
Try not to get frustrated with the car. It does take a little bit to get used to, at least for me coming from a fwd background. Work up to the limits of the car since nannies won’t kick in until late
 
17
10
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
FL
Let’s hope with the suspension and square tire upgrades, that will solve your handling ills. Being a PP1 it should have the small shields like my Bullitt. The Vorshlag brake deflectors should take the place of the factory deflectors.
Try not to get frustrated with the car. It does take a little bit to get used to, at least for me coming from a fwd background. Work up to the limits of the car since nannies won’t kick in until late
Should be a lot better. 255 PS4 to 305 RE71R's front tires alone should go along way. Plus 52% stiffer front springs and 2 degs of additional negative camber up front. Going to be a different car. Looking forward to seeing how close I can come to my previous car lap times. Likely a few seconds slower, but those seconds come at quite the cost. Thanks for the input. Cheers.
 

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