Rear brake wear

[Black Boss]

Nothing like getting every last lick of pad life out of those Nick! ;D

Gary,
I was a bit more conservative this time



Having changed the pins, the wear is a little more even, but these rear left side (Pagid) pads only did 3 track days (6 hours) Still a few days left on the rights.

The majority was on Slicks, including 4 hours on the R6's, and I had XP24's up front, which lasted 2 days/4 hours.

The rear Left caliper dust seal is toast after 6 hours also.......

Am now installing XP10's on the rear.

 

[steveespo]

My XP24s sized for the 6 piston 15" GT 500 brakes are lasting me 7-8 hours. Much larger pad than the 14" 1001 shape. This has to help wear rates. Rears are about the same as yours at 5-6 hours. Heavy car, higher speeds with R compound tires=more brake wear. Guess we are within spec on the brakes.
Steve

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

I picked up a set of the Performance Friction pads with the 12 Endurance Compound. We'll see what they do on Labor Day.

Bite on those should be pretty smooth, if they are anything like the '08s they replaced--they need some heat before they really start working; that shouldn't be a problem back there, however.

 

[wwilde001]

I don't want to get too far off this topic, but I've been using Pagid RS-14 Compound up front (25mm thick pads) and those things are lasting forever. I've got 12 track days on them and they still have 50% pad life left on them.

 

[KNS Brakes]

I don't want to get too far off this topic, but I've been using Pagid RS-14 Compound up front (25mm thick pads) and those things are lasting forever. I've got 12 track days on them and they still have 50% pad life left on them.

What kit are you running with 25mm thick pads?

 

[DEye]

Here are my Left rear pads after 12.5 hours of track time. Wear is extremely un-even, but Right rear pads are even.

Have replaced guide pins and springs to see if there's any improvement.

What material do the guide pins run through ? The MINI had rubber gromets that nearly burnt in the rears, I replaced with a brass set of bushings, coated with high temp anti seize , the rear calipers slid easily after that and pads wore evenly.

Just wondering...

Don

 

[steveespo]

What kit are you running with 25mm thick pads?

Fancy pants race Brembos

 

[Boone]

Resurrecting an old thread as I'm having the same issue as the OP. The outside rear pads are wearing at about twice the rate as the inside pads. I planned to flip them, but I'm wondering if there is a root cause here that we're missing.

Most of the discussion in this thread focused on "I use ****-## pad", but I'd like to know why the wear is uneven on my '05 GT. I know the pad discussion is relevant, but there is a physical reason the outside pad is wearing more, and I'd like to get to the bottom of it. I've done nine sessions on these new pads and rotors, the rear gear was changed, and a BMR upper control arm was added before these nine sessions.

1. I know there is a little side to side play in any solid rear axle, and I'm leaning on that as the most likely suspect. Especially since I believe the movement in my rear axle is a little excessive. Is there a published allowable distance that is acceptable for an 8.8 rear axle?
2. Another issue I'm looking into is the disc brake lube I am using (NAPA off the shelf stuff) feels like rubber after a weekend at the track. I'm looking at using a high temp anti-seize compound as an alternative.
3. I have an issue with a wheel speed sensor or the ABS module I can't seem to work out. My ABS and traction control lights will sometimes go haywire on track, and the systems will shut down. I had the Ford dealer flush my ABS this winter, and I managed to not lock up a front right at 140mph like the last time out, but I still have issues. Can this be contributing to the uneven wear? I do turn off traction control before each track session.

All responses appreciated, even the bad ones.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

@Boone
Usually I see the INSIDE pads wear faster in the rear as there is "less" cooling there.
You can rotate the pads between weekends (or between days, if you are bored) to help even the wear out.

Make sure to keep the slider pins greased to prevent pad taper front-to-rear.
If you are getting pad taper wear top-to-bottom, it's likely that the caliper has overheated and flexed, and should be replaced (IMO).

If you have some funding, you have the option of upgrading your ABS hydraulic unit to the 11-14 Mustang GT module, which will then accept a BOSS 302 R/S ABS controller module. You will lose Stability Control/Traction Control/Advance Trac but you will have race-focused ABS.

Finally, make sure you get a good ABS bleed. The dealer can do this, or you can do this on your own if you have Ford's IDS software. Or you can do the "gravel road + hard brake" method, which seems like more trouble than it's worth.