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Rear differential options

So I seem to run my boss at the drag strip more than the road coarse. I run ET street bias ply, when trying to do a burnout I can only get the right side to spin, I always notice this in my mirrors and the horrible grinding noise that I hear, once I launch I have no issues both wheels are spinning. In previous cars I would get the one wheel wonder randomly but never the noise I am hearing now. My question is what have you guys upgraded to or what differentials are you running. I do not have the torsen. I may be able to get this replaced under warranty as I know a mechanic at the Ford dealership, or should I just stick something else in? I plan on drag racing it, and still road coarse and a few auto cross events. I am leaning towards the tru trac, and really don't know if the torsen is worth twice the money as the tru trac. What do you guys think?
 
I haven't a clue on which diff to run but welcome to BMO.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
12coBoss said:
So I seem to run my boss at the drag strip more than the road coarse. I run ET street bias ply, when trying to do a burnout I can only get the right side to spin, I always notice this in my mirrors and the horrible grinding noise that I hear, once I launch I have no issues both wheels are spinning. In previous cars I would get the one wheel wonder randomly but never the noise I am hearing now. My question is what have you guys upgraded to or what differentials are you running. I do not have the torsen. I may be able to get this replaced under warranty as I know a mechanic at the Ford dealership, or should I just stick something else in? I plan on drag racing it, and still road coarse and a few auto cross events. I am leaning towards the tru trac, and really don't know if the torsen is worth twice the money as the tru trac. What do you guys think?

Get the Torsen. You don't need to get the Boss specific one...I believe the others are cheaper.

When i kill the diff on my GT it will get a T2R.
 

BLAZN BOSS

There is no reason why what you have doesnt work unless its broke. The Boss's come with carbon fiber clutches, a deeper pack and stronger S spring than a GT gets. This set up is an upgrade that can be bought from the ford parts. Take your car back and have them pull the cover off to see whats going on. You shouldnt be having any problem with this set up for drag racing.
 

steveespo

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Torsen is not really good for drag use. Auburn Tru Trac is similar but better suited to shock loads for drag launches.
Surprised the Traction Lok is burned out on your car already, grinding noise is the clutch plates slipping bad.
Steve
 

ArizonaBOSS

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steveespo said:
Torsen is not really good for drag use. Auburn Tru Trac is similar but better suited to shock loads for drag launches.
Surprised the Traction Lok is burned out on your car already, grinding noise is the clutch plates slipping bad.
Steve

+1, Torsens are notorious for grenading at dragstrips. Not sure if the BOSS version has this issue but not worth the risk, IMO.

Check out the Eaton Detroit Tru-Trac or Auburn Posi.
 
ArizonaGT said:
+1, Torsens are notorious for grenading at dragstrips. Not sure if the BOSS version has this issue but not worth the risk, IMO.

Check out the Eaton Detroit Tru-Trac or Auburn Posi.

Because of how a torsen transfers torque, they generate huge shock loads when you subject them to drag race style launches with sticky tires. they also are known for blowing axles to pieces in that environment as well.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
NewBossowner said:
Because of how a torsen transfers torque, they generate huge shock loads when you subject them to drag race style launches with sticky tires. they also are known for blowing axles to pieces in that environment as well.

He says he's running on the bias ply ET Streets...DRs make for a much bigger hit to the drivetrain.
 
Grant 302 said:
He says he's running on the bias ply ET Streets...DRs make for a much bigger hit to the drivetrain.

Dunno, looks like a street legal drag tire to me, just not a radial.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/mickey-thompson-et-street-tires
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
Grant 302 said:
He says he's running on the bias ply ET Streets...DRs make for a much bigger hit to the drivetrain.
the bias plys hit harder

You don't want an eaton posi had one in my cobra broke it twice. And it weighs a ton. The set up you have now is your best option just have them fix it.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
NewBossowner said:
Dunno, looks like a street legal drag tire to me, just not a radial.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/mickey-thompson-et-street-tires
ive ran all three versions of Mickey Thompson tires the dr the et street and their full slick. So the dr has a stiffer side wall and are easier on the rear the et streets are softer and hit harder and the full slick hits just a little harder
 
Justin said:
ive ran all three versions of Mickey Thompson tires the dr the et street and their full slick. So the dr has a stiffer side wall and are easier on the rear the et streets are softer and hit harder and the full slick hits just a little harder

That's right, so from what everyone is saying I will probably stay away from the torsen. I think I am going to talk to the guy I know that works at the dealership first to see if he can replace it under warranty plus it would be free. If not I'll be looking at the auburn or tru track. Just want something that will be reliable on both strip and road course. I had no issues with my 08 GT stock rear, and I had well over 200 launches above 6200 rpms on the ET streets. I plan to launch the boss hard too, but right now without being able to get any heat in them I'm just spinning anytime I launch over 5000 rpms.
 

BLAZN BOSS

If your ready to spend money then call one of many manufacturers and put a 9 inch in it with a locker. You aint going to break that with 444 hp.
 
I broke an Auburn Pro and a Detroit Locker making the same power as a Boss in a lighter car on drag radials. The only real fix is a spool. A spool will take the fun out of daily driving the car though. Use what you have until it breaks. If it breaks rebuild what is in it.
 

BLAZN BOSS

You broke a nodular 9 inch with a ford detroit locker with 400 hp? Anything is possible but that set up is in cars with way more power, take all the ford fatory drag cars, way way more than 444 hp and on slicks.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Justin said:
ive ran all three versions of Mickey Thompson tires the dr the et street and their full slick. So the dr has a stiffer side wall and are easier on the rear the et streets are softer and hit harder and the full slick hits just a little harder

I've run both the ET Streets and Drags but other brand DRs. My impression is that the DRs hit harder. I don't mean that they have more traction in similar sizing, but that they need to be on a suspension setup to hit hard and launched hard to stick. ET Streets and Drags stick until you overpower them regardless...and with the soft sidewall, they hide suspension tuning deficiencies. Squat or lift, it didn't seem to matter much with the Streets or Drags.

I wasn't thinking that an N/A boss would be too much for the Torsen at the strip. My understanding is that most of the grenaded ones are from high HP/high torque setups...not something I really think of with the Boss. Rebuilding the T-lok or getting the TrueTrac probably do make more sense in the long run.
 
BLAZN BOSS said:
You broke a nodular 9 inch with a ford detroit locker with 400 hp? Anything is possible but that set up is in cars with way more power, take all the ford fatory drag cars, way way more than 444 hp and on slicks.

It was not a 9" locker, it was a 8.8.
 

jneary

Performance Fords
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The only time I ever had a Trac Loc grind was when I forgot to put friction modifier in when I changed the rear end oil. Have you changed the oil since you started driving at the track?
John
 

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