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Rear LCA relocation brackets (05‐14)

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this might be a dumb question, but steeda has the "bolt on" version of the LCA relo brackets. They look very similar in design to the BMR bolt on brackets but steeda insists that you still need to weld their's on after install. Anyone have input on if it is actually necessary to weld the brackets on?
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
They look weld on only to me. Mostly because they don’t have all the bracing and extra bolts to keep them from rotating.

The nice part about these brackets is that the have a setting that is less than the typical minimum of -2” for most bolt on applications.
 
They look weld on only to me. Mostly because they don’t have all the bracing and extra bolts to keep them from rotating.

The nice part about these brackets is that the have a setting that is less than the typical minimum of -2” for most bolt on applications.
The old ones were like that but the new steedas actually have the extra spot to bolt on to the chassis

Screenshot_20200902-142605_Samsung Internet.jpg

Screenshot_20200902-142531_Samsung Internet.jpg
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
I see. Looks like they still want them welded even with the added brace like most others. I wonder if they’ve had issues with their old design. Like alignment or bending. Maybe give them a call?
 
I see. Looks like they still want them welded even with the added brace like most others. I wonder if they’ve had issues with their old design. Like alignment or bending. Maybe give them a call?
Yea, I originally had the old design and decided to sell it so I can avoid having to weld. Ended up buying this new design without looking at the description fully then found out that it still needs to be installed. I called and they insisted that it still needs to be welded even though you bolt it on.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Yea, I originally had the old design and decided to sell it so I can avoid having to weld. Ended up buying this new design without looking at the description fully then found out that it still needs to be installed. I called and they insisted that it still needs to be welded even though you bolt it on.
Ugh...that kinda stinks. Now you have two pairs that need to be welded?
 

Fabman

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xr7

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I went with the UMI relo brackets, they have and additional bolt above the original hole besides the "back straps" to hold things in place. While I don't do track events the autocross hasn't moved mine in three years despite lots of hard launches and hard braking. Only minor issue I had was one hole was off a bit so I had to do slight mods. Brackets were purchased about 6 years ago so I would figure that problem has been fixed. https://www.umiperformance.com/home...rear-control-arm-relocation-brackets-bolt-in/
I also used their adjustable lower control arms with the roto-joint - poly joint set up. I wanted a adjustable arm that could be adjusted without removing it.
One other thought I had was to put a 2" dia. Alum sleeve over the steel sleeve used on the bolt in the original mounting location. Figured that may give a little better clamping load vs the steel sleeve on its own.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
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441
Southeast
I also used their adjustable lower control arms with the roto-joint - poly joint set up. I wanted a adjustable arm that could be adjusted without removing it.

This is a very important point to keep the rear axle centered in the rear wheel well. In other words, RLCA Relo Brackets used with stock length non-adjustable LCA’s will pull the rear axle forward.

Always measure your Pinion Angle before & after & adjust accordingly, especially when using a 1 piece D/S with U-Joints.
 
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Texas
This is a very important point to keep the rear axle centered in the rear wheel well. In other words, RLCA Relo Brackets used with stock length non-adjustable LCA’s will pull the rear axle forward.

Always measure your Pinion Angle before & after & adjust accordingly, especially when using a 1 piece D/S with U-Joints.

What range should the pinion angle remain within to keep a stock DS & U-joints relatively safe? I've got BMR Relo brackets sitting waiting for me to put on. PO had already installed BMR LCA's and a coil over kit, so no idea what the stock pinion angles or ride height looked like before mods.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
This is an excellent article on Pinion Angle management.


I used adjustable upper and lower control arms on my S197. After install of the LCA Relo Brackets, and with the vehicle ride height finalized, I adjusted the LCA’s (lengthen both equally) to push back the rear axle to a more centered position in the wheel well. This caused my Pinion yoke downwards increasing my Pinion angle.

Next, I installed adjustable UCA and lengthen it to rotate the Pinion yoke upwards to attain a total of -7 degrees.

Important note here is -7 degrees Pinion Angle (On my S197) is - 3 degrees at transmission tail shaft slip yoke & - 4 degrees at Pinion yoke.

You need a bit more angel at the differential side because of its tendency to thrust upwards under WOT launch conditions. Your D/S should never go over Zero degrees at the Diff end.

Other notes: I run a 4.0” Aluminum D/S with Spicer U-Joints & after 30k miles she’s still running tight, straight & true with no U-Joint slop.
 
42
23
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Texas
This is an excellent article on Pinion Angle management.


I used adjustable upper and lower control arms on my S197. After install of the LCA Relo Brackets, and with the vehicle ride height finalized, I adjusted the LCA’s (lengthen both equally) to push back the rear axle to a more centered position in the wheel well. This caused my Pinion yoke downwards increasing my Pinion angle.

Next, I installed adjustable UCA and lengthen it to rotate the Pinion yoke upwards to attain a total of -7 degrees.

Important note here is -7 degrees Pinion Angle (On my S197) is - 3 degrees at transmission tail shaft slip yoke & - 4 degrees at Pinion yoke.

You need a bit more angel at the differential side because of its tendency to thrust upwards under WOT launch conditions. Your D/S should never go over Zero degrees at the Diff end.

Other notes: I run a 4.0” Aluminum D/S with Spicer U-Joints & after 30k miles she’s still running tight, straight & true with no U-Joint slop.

That's a great resource. Thanks for the quick info!! I've got the adjustable UCA sitting in a box waiting (im)patiently as well. I'll have this info in front of me next time I get it up on the rack.
Jim
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
In other words, RLCA Relo Brackets used with stock length non-adjustable LCA’s will pull the rear axle forward.
FWIW, this isn’t true of all cases.

First, because the holes in the Ford bracket are arranged in an arc. When lowering in the 1”-1-1/2” range the rear axle will not be drawn forward by the lower trailing arm at stock length.

Second, for any bracket where the holes are all vertically arranged, if the trailing arm mounting points are about 1/2” or less (difference) in vertical position (where the arm is anywhere near level) the axle will be further back than stock.

I wouldn’t try to ‘visually center’ the rear wheels. And I wouldn’t lengthen the lower trailing arms or wheelbase. For other reasons like weight dist. and where the jounce bumpers make contact with the subframe.

I’d make all and any needed adjustments at the upper arm.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
FWIW, this isn’t true of all cases.

First, because the holes in the Ford bracket are arranged in an arc. When lowering in the 1”-1-1/2” range the rear axle will not be drawn forward by the lower trailing arm at stock length.

Second, for any bracket where the holes are all vertically arranged, if the trailing arm mounting points are about 1/2” or less (difference) in vertical position (where the arm is anywhere near level) the axle will be further back than stock.

I wouldn’t try to ‘visually center’ the rear wheels. And I wouldn’t lengthen the lower trailing arms or wheelbase. For other reasons like weight dist. and where the jounce bumpers make contact with the subframe.

I’d make all and any needed adjustments at the upper arm.

I can only speak from experience and in my case, the rear axle most definitely pulled forward, by a lot.

Just remember the axle moves in an arc when changing distances between mounting points. The fulcrum will be opposite of the control arm you’re changing.

As far as your “I wouldn’t try to ‘visually center’ the rear wheels” comment, This is why I said ‘you should measure before & after’ when making these changes’. Perhaps you missed that?

Personally, I use a laser measuring device for distances. My ‘visual’ input only tell me to measure twice.

Last, The Live Axle is not pushed to the rear when using non adjustable OEM spec LCA’s with Relo Brackets.

So sorry to have to disagree with you Grant.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
That's a great resource. Thanks for the quick info!! I've got the adjustable UCA sitting in a box waiting (im)patiently as well. I'll have this info in front of me next time I get it up on the rack.
Jim

And Jim, always take measurements.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
I can only speak from experience and in my case, the rear axle most definitely pulled forward, by a lot.

Just remember the axle moves in an arc when changing distances between mounting points. The fulcrum will be opposite of the control arm you’re changing.

As far as your “I wouldn’t try to ‘visually center’ the rear wheels” comment, This is why I said ‘you should measure before & after’ when making these changes’. Perhaps you missed that?

Personally, I use a laser measuring device for distances. My ‘visual’ input only tell me to measure twice.

Last, The Live Axle is not pushed to the rear when using non adjustable OEM spec LCA’s with Relo Brackets.

So sorry to have to disagree with you Grant.

That would be correct if the OEM arm position was exactly level. It isn’t.
 

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