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I had no idea, thanks !!!!Close. You put it in track mode, then hold the advance trac button for about 8 seconds until message comes on center of dash that advance trac is off
Until the car decides your crazy and turns it all back on again!!! Very fustrating.Track mode turns off Traction Control but leaves Stability Control in a less intrusive mode. TC will let you light up the tires as long as you want if you're going straight. If the car feels the back end coming out too far, it'll intervene and use the brakes to bring things back in line. Just like O-Man said, the only way to turn it all off is to hold the TC button until AdvanceTrac (Stability Control) turns off.
Until the car decides your crazy and turns it all back on again!!! Very fustrating.
They do not - the only real "fix" for track s197's is to switch to a race abs unit (though for dual purpose cars that has its own caveats)Do S197's have a 4 wire plug on the driver's front fender well? Sometimes referred to as they "dyno plug". I have friends who drift S550's and when that is unplugged advancetrac does not turn back on. I've never had to unplug it, but maybe worth a shot if your car has such a plug Mr. Hat Fabricator.
My first impressions were also that the rear brakes really aren't working, it is light rust in the discoloration..... I have been to 3 track days so far, maybe they just to be bled?OP I could be wrong but to me that looks more like a caliper that is binding and not applying the brakes firmly than it does overheating. On my computer monitor it looks more like light rust that hasn't been scrubbed off.
If your rotors look like that after daily driving on the street I think it is unlikely you overheated them.
On my s197 when the rear brakes overheated the rotors turned blue-ish especially down by the hubs. Switching to larger gt500 rotors and turning off stability control at the track helped.
It depends on the circumstances. Brake rotors can rust just sitting overnight if the humidity is high enough. But if they look like that after driving for a bit, I would guess your caliper is binding and not applying the brake pads firmly enough. Regardless, I don't think it's an overheating situation.My first impressions were also that the rear brakes really aren't working, it is light rust in the discoloration..... I have been to 3 track days so far, maybe they just to be bled?
What about just tuning it permanently off??.... like in the AED track tunes/They do not - the only real "fix" for track s197's is to switch to a race abs unit (though for dual purpose cars that has its own caveats)
Fronts look great, I did put the Vorshlag deflectors on before the last track day.That's not rust, it is pad deposits. My rear rotors looked the same when I tracked with stock pads. They will go back to normal if you put some street miles on it.
What do you fronts look like? My fronts are typically in much worse shape than the back.
The Boss 302 supplement manual says to remove the rear brake dust shields before tracking the car, could this impact any of this discussion? Do people actually do that?That's not rust, it is pad deposits. My rear rotors looked the same when I tracked with stock pads. They will go back to normal if you put some street miles on it.
What do you fronts look like? My fronts are typically in much worse shape than the back.
I did. I have had no issues with stones getting into the pads, calipers since doing this. Cooling has to be improved.The Boss 302 supplement manual says to remove the rear brake dust shields before tracking the car