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Rear Seat Delete Question

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539
687
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
I'm putting in a roll bar next month and in order to stay in Street Class in my local TT group, I have to have a rear seat delete (can't show bare metal). I'm planning to build the car to Nasa TT3 specs for next year in which case I'll be pulling most of the interior out. So I really only need the rear seat delete through the end of this year.
I'm too cheap to buy a kit that I'll only use for a few months; does anyone have any good ideas how to make one for cheap?
 
1,178
2,175
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
SoCal
I'm putting in a roll bar next month and in order to stay in Street Class in my local TT group, I have to have a rear seat delete (can't show bare metal). I'm planning to build the car to Nasa TT3 specs for next year in which case I'll be pulling most of the interior out. So I really only need the rear seat delete through the end of this year.
I'm too cheap to buy a kit that I'll only use for a few months; does anyone have any good ideas how to make one for cheap?
I used the Shrader kit. It’s complete and fits well, and I believe they supply Watson Racing for their kits now too.

With that said, it’s nothing more than a flat sheet of ABS plastic with speaker box carpet. Even the brackets are formed out of ABS that was heated and formed. I used a large sheet of cardboard to build a template for the roll bar holes - you could fab the whole thing up using cardboard and then build the finished product out of ABS. For that matter, you could do like the OE’s did back in the 60’s and just cover the cardboard templates with carpet or vinyl and let it rip.
 
If you were basing the 'too cheap' decision based off the Watson Racing rear seat delete @ $425, LMR under their SVE brand has a good looking molded one for $248.

Otherwise, you could get some automotive carpet from Amazon or other similar vendors and use push-pin clips in factory hole provisions (like the factory under-hood insulator) and strategically placed self-adhesive Velcro strips on the seat area (same strategy the molded SVE one employs) to hold it down.
 
28
30
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Bay Area, CA
I took Cardboard, traced around the cage mounting point and then cut it out of Sentra (Plastic) and it's held in place by friction and Velcro. The trunk divider is held in place with friction alone - it's a nice press fit. You can totally do this with corrugated plastic if you wanted and just get it in black or spray it.

You might find that you want to secure it in place using hardware so it doesn't move when at speed. I take all of mine out when i go to the track since it's just HDPE days right now.

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4
4
Exp. Type
Drag Strip
Exp. Level
20+ Years
South Coast, Massachusetts
I'm putting in a roll bar next month and in order to stay in Street Class in my local TT group, I have to have a rear seat delete (can't show bare metal). I'm planning to build the car to Nasa TT3 specs for next year in which case I'll be pulling most of the interior out. So I really only need the rear seat delete through the end of this year.
I'm too cheap to buy a kit that I'll only use for a few months; does anyone have any good ideas how to make one for cheap?

Hello, newbie here, I did mine for next to nothing in my S197,, Local junkyard, Found two late model Ford Fusions carpeted rear trunk mats w/ plastic corrugated backing (like plastic cardboard) made templates and did some measuring and done. Use some permatex spray adhesive to do some finish work. The carpet will separate from the plastic backing w/ some heat and force so you can finish as you like. To make additional tray to replace the seat bottoms , Ford Transit cargo vans have the same corrugated plastic sheeting in the interior rear walls................. all in all cost about $35

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539
687
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
Follow up on this....would cardboard in the upright/seatback portion hold up fine at speed? I'm concerned at speed with the windows down that carboard would bend and eventual rip out. Not sure how much air pressure is created with the windows down.

Does that makes sense?
 

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