Rear upper control arm.

[Tri-bar]

I'm in the market for a good rear upper control arm. Testing out a non-adjustable BMR right now, so far not a fan. I have used the Kenny Brown arm and the stock arm. Running a Steeda bearing in the axle right now. I like the stock arm but the big bushing is now blown out. The Kenny brown arm is okay, but way to much noise for my taste with the bearing in the axle. So hit me with your best shot, what are you guys using.

 

[cobrarob]

Been using this one from BMR for a couple years,so far performed well. Just ordered the Steeda spherical for the axle end,hopefully i like it!

 

[Flyboygsxr]

http://www.jegs.com/i/Roush+Performance/832/421120/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710645698&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000850787&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKEAiAmeyxBRCJxoKk7IWLl2oSJABvZjhh0b8Ve_JiEBvgP4MySxc0R6TErWJ5MzgyE9sHAcNStxoCPn_w_wcB

This ^^^ or the stock control arm are the only two I know of that won't increase NVH

 

[Brandon302]

Why not do a poly bushing in the pumpkin and then a poly arm. I still have the stock bushing in the pumpkin and the Whiteline poly upper, the only added noise is diff whine, no knocking or clunking.

 

[Tri-bar]

Why not do a poly bushing in the pumpkin and then a poly arm. I still have the stock bushing in the pumpkin and the Whiteline poly upper, the only added noise is diff whine, no knocking or clunking.

I tried the Poly at the axle with the Kenny Brown arm, It was ok but I didn't like the way it felt. Seem to add a tad of rear end bind/oversteer. I still have the poly bushing from steeda, I can always but it back in..Right now I'm looking at the RTR upper arm. The C-Max bushing looks like it would work well.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/rtr-adj-up-control-arm-1114.html

 

[Brandon302]

I tried the Poly at the axle with the Kenny Brown arm, It was ok but I didn't like the way it felt. Seem to add a tad of rear end bind/oversteer. I still have the poly bushing from steeda, I can always but it back in..Right now I'm looking at the RTR upper arm. The C-Max bushing looks like it would work well.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/rtr-adj-up-control-arm-1114.html

That would make sense that you had bind since you had a spherical bearing at the arm and poly at the axle. I had asked Kelly from BMR about adding a spherical bearing to the axle to pair with my poly arm and he had said that wasn't the best option. The spherical allows for much more articulation and the poly doesn't, so you introduce bind in at one point or the other. With poly on both ends it is stiffer and shouldn't bind as much from my understanding.

 

[2012-Boss]

That would make sense that you had bind since you had a spherical bearing at the arm and poly at the axle. I had asked Kelly from BMR about adding a spherical bearing to the axle to pair with my poly arm and he had said that wasn't the best option. The spherical allows for much more articulation and the poly doesn't, so you introduce bind in at one point or the other. With poly on both ends it is stiffer and shouldn't bind as much from my understanding.

If you are doing a Polly / bearing combo, BMR / Kelly recommend a poly bushing in the pumpkin and the bearing on the UCA. This combination eliminates most of the bind associated with the third link but is not as noisy as the a diff bearing and poly UCA or pure bearing combinations. Kelly does not really recommend poly / poly for a handling application like road coarse use.

Also, the Steeda bearing is know to be very noisy and clunks a lot.

 

[BMRTech]

I'm in the market for a good rear upper control arm. Testing out a non-adjustable BMR right now, so far not a fan. I have used the Kenny Brown arm and the stock arm. Running a Steeda bearing in the axle right now. I like the stock arm but the big bushing is now blown out. The Kenny brown arm is okay, but way to much noise for my taste with the bearing in the axle. So hit me with your best shot, what are you guys using.

May I ask, what is it that you do not like about the BMR Poly UCA? The way it looks? Noise? Design?

As I have stated in other threads, and what I tell my customers, I am a huge fan of a Poly/Bearing combo up top "like" you have....BUT, I prefer a Poly Diff bushing with a Bearing UCA End.

The reasons are because:

-I have found that Poly lasts longer when installed in the differential, than in the fore end of the UCA.

-I have experienced much more noise from bearings in the diff, than I have with bearings on the fore end of the UCA

The primary reason for this is because of the designs of the available diff bushings + the design on the OEM sleeve that those bushings fit in.

In all honesty, I do NOT like to see cars that race on a track (any track, handling/drag) use Poly Bushings. Thousands do it, and that is fine...but Poly on any companies product and any type of design can/will fail under the right circumstance.

If you want the best value UCA, that happens to be the best in every way UCA available today for the S197, we have our "Ultimate" UCA Part # UTCA033 that I highly recommend. It is adjustable, unlike the MultiMatic, uses a massive 1" FK Bearing and features engineering beyond anything available as I type this.

I am confident in those words.

I urge anyone who is curious about our UTCA033, to read this:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?968242-All-of-this-UCA-talk!

 

[Tri-bar]

May I ask, what is it that you do not like about the BMR Poly UCA? The way it looks? Noise? Design?

As I have stated in other threads, and what I tell my customers, I am a huge fan of a Poly/Bearing combo up top "like" you have....BUT, I prefer a Poly Diff bushing with a Bearing UCA End.

The reasons are because:

-I have found that Poly lasts longer when installed in the differential, than in the fore end of the UCA.

-I have experienced much more noise from bearings in the diff, than I have with bearings on the fore end of the UCA

The primary reason for this is because of the designs of the available diff bushings + the design on the OEM sleeve that those bushings fit in.

In all honesty, I do NOT like to see cars that race on a track (any track, handling/drag) use Poly Bushings. Thousands do it, and that is fine...but Poly on any companies product and any type of design can/will fail under the right circumstance.

If you want the best value UCA, that happens to be the best in every way UCA available today for the S197, we have our "Ultimate" UCA Part # UTCA033 that I highly recommend. It is adjustable, unlike the MultiMatic, uses a massive 1" FK Bearing and features engineering beyond anything available as I type this.

I am confident in those words.

I urge anyone who is curious about our UTCA033, to read this:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?968242-All-of-this-UCA-talk!

It is a very well made part, that's for sure. With that said, the poly end is making a lot of noise. Even after greasing, it still squeaks like mad but no popping which is good for using the stock mount . Seems very stiff/firm in the rear now as well and added slight over steer and makes the rear rotate more. I'm losing off corner grip under power. It raised my ride height by a 1/4 of an inch in the rear without any other changes. Not sure how that happened. The poly bushing is not giving me the movement I need or the feel I want.

I don't really want to go with a bearing on both ends, I have tried that, too much banging as the arm moves. I have invested it the the axle bearing for now it's staying in place at the moment. Going to try the RTR Tactical Performance Adjustable upper control arm. I like the idea of the Max-C bushing. If it works, great. If not I will move onto a bearing control arm like the BMR. For now I'm hoping the RTR will give me the grip and feel I liked with the Stock upper arm.

 

[Flyboygsxr]

Just a curious question...what did you set your pinion angle to? Changing the pinion angle will change the ride height and have an effect on rear grip. You are essentially rotating the rear axle when you set the angle.

 

[Tri-bar]

Just a curious question...what did you set your pinion angle to? Changing the pinion angle will change the ride height and have an effect on rear grip. You are essentially rotating the rear axle when you set the angle.

right now it's a 3*

 

[Flyboygsxr]

3 degrees down I am assuming? One more time, what are your mods to the rear suspension? Do you still have the stock lower control arms? Have you installed the Steeda bearing yet and you went with their spherical not the the poly bushing correct?

I ask this because these mods will help determine what angle you should have your pinion set to. Mine is set at 1 degree down but I have spherical upper and lower control arms so there isn't a lot of flex on acceleration or braking.

 

[Tri-bar]

rear:
JRI Single Adjustable Coil Over Shocks.
Eibach 0800-250-200 Race Springs 200 lb/in.
Steeda Mustang Rear Axle Spherical Bearing.
BMR Poly Non-Adjustable Upper Control Arm.
Ford Racing M-4264-A Adjustable panhard bar.
Ford Racing M-5649-R1 Boss 302R Lower Control arms.
Ford Racing M-5650-A Anti-Squat Brackets.
Watson Racing 1/2 in. Rear Sway Bar.

this is with a Ford Racing aluminum drive shaft.

 

[Flyboygsxr]

I would set your pinion angle at 1-2 degrees down. The goal is to set an angle that will keep you from going positive.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

I would set your pinion angle at 1-2 degrees down. The goal is to set an angle that will keep you from going positive.

I totally agree, and closer to the 2.0 - 2.5 degree mark for loose rear control arm bushes. The noise of the pinion drive hard upwards when the car hooks, or goes to WOT conditions. The key is to keep the DS slightly below or from going past the zero degree plane under WOT conditions. So each suspension set up maybe slightly different.

But the above recommendation will get 90 percent of us in the safe zone.

Good luck,
302 HP

 

[Tri-bar]

Once I get the Adjustable arm in. I will set it, thanks guys.

 

[Brandon302]

If you are doing a Polly / bearing combo, BMR / Kelly recommend a poly bushing in the pumpkin and the bearing on the UCA. This combination eliminates most of the bind associated with the third link but is not as noisy as the a diff bearing and poly UCA or pure bearing combinations. Kelly does not really recommend poly / poly for a handling application like road coarse use.

Also, the Steeda bearing is know to be very noisy and clunks a lot.

My memory isn't the best, thanks for the correction, that makes more sense than what I suggested.

 

[Tri-bar]

Just a update.
I installed the RTR Tactical Performance Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm. Install was the same as installing any other arm of this kind. The arm it's self is very nice, well built. The Max-C bushing is nice. The test drive even better. The rear moved much freer with no other changes to the setup. It was planted coming off corner, ride height went back to what I had it set for in the first place. No squeaking but have a little bit of more road noise. It feels like having a bearing at both ends with out all the banging and popping. there is no fore and aft movement, up and down and rotational movement are free.

 

[blacksheep-1]

further info

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=10573.0

 

[Tri-bar]

Thanks Rob for your link. Not driving the car much with all the rain we have been getting here lately. But the upper arm is still holding up when I do get to drive her. I did check the holes when I installed the arm, It was still round and not hogged out..All is good, My lower arms make more noise than the upper, the Boos 302s arms will do that as you know.