Rear Wheel Hub

[Nick20GTPP]

During my last track day (Roebling Road 11/7) I got the AdvaceTrac, ABS, and Airbag light. I connected my OBDII and no codes were displayed. In addition, I checked the engineering screen (held ok on startup) and no codes. Today I took it to Ford and they said the left rear hub and ABS sensor needs replacing. Unfortunately the parts are on back order with Ford until the end of the month. I am able to source the part aside from the dealer and able to do the install myself. However, will I need to have anything reprogrammed or is it a "plug and play" with the new part the caution lights will extinguish? Thank you all in advance, I really appreciate your time and advice!! Cheers

 

[JAJ]

During my last track day (Roebling Road 11/7) I got the AdvaceTrac, ABS, and Airbag light. I connected my OBDII and no codes were displayed. In addition, I checked the engineering screen (held ok on startup) and no codes. Today I took it to Ford and they said the left rear hub and ABS sensor needs replacing. Unfortunately the parts are on back order with Ford until the end of the month. I am able to source the part aside from the dealer and able to do the install myself. However, will I need to have anything reprogrammed or is it a "plug and play" with the new part the caution lights will extinguish? Thank you all in advance, I really appreciate your time and advice!! Cheers

No calibration required - new parts are all that's needed.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Axle nuts are notorious on these cars for backing out, especially the drivers side. I've torqued to spec with red loctite and still had my driver's side back off. Once they back off enough the hub bearings eat themselves. They're supposed to be TTY nuts so you can decide if you'd like to re-torque when loose or re-tighten. I just keep snugging mine back up, but that's up to you. I suggest to check torque on these before or after every track day and mark with indicator paint.

 

[Nick20GTPP]

No calibration required - new parts are all that's needed.

Awesome. Thank you!

 

[Nick20GTPP]

Axle nuts are notorious on these cars for backing out, especially the drivers side. I've torqued to spec with red loctite and still had my driver's side back off. Once they back off enough the hub bearings eat themselves. They're supposed to be TTY nuts so you can decide if you'd like to re-torque when loose or re-tighten. I just keep snugging mine back up, but that's up to you. I suggest to check torque on these before or after every track day and mark with indicator paint.

Great advice. I’ll add this to my pre/post track day checklist.

 

[mikeD4V]

The errors won't show up on an engine ECU code scanner, you'll need a code scanner that can also read ABS. A good ABS scanner will also identify which sensor has the communication error. OBDLink MX+ will also detect the sensor error but cannot tell you which one it is.

Both driver side wheel speed sensors on mine failed a few weeks ago causing ABS/drive mode/advancetrac service errors and dash lights. Replacing the sensors fixed my problem. The rear sensors are on top of the rear knuckle and retained by an 8mm bolt; 5min job with the wheel off. The reluctor ring is on the hub and is shielded by the knuckle so it's difficult to damage. The hub R&R will be a few hours of work. Guessing the dealer wanted to address all components of the system to be sure it's fixed.

The front sensors are side specific but the rear is not. They're $20-$30/each.

Front:
- DS: FR3Z2C205A
- PS: FR3Z2C204A
Rear: FR3Z2C190B

 

[Nick20GTPP]

The errors won't show up on an engine ECU code scanner, you'll need a code scanner that can also read ABS. A good ABS scanner will also identify which sensor has the communication error. OBDLink MX+ will also detect the sensor error but cannot tell you which one it is.

Both driver side wheel speed sensors on mine failed a few weeks ago causing ABS/drive mode/advancetrac service errors and dash lights. Replacing the sensors fixed my problem. The rear sensors are on top of the rear knuckle and retained by an 8mm bolt; 5min job with the wheel off. The reluctor ring is on the hub and is shielded by the knuckle so it's difficult to damage. The hub R&R will be a few hours of work. Guessing the dealer wanted to address all components of the system to be sure it's fixed.

The front sensors are side specific but the rear is not. They're $20-$30/each.

Front:
- DS: FR3Z2C205A
- PS: FR3Z2C204A
Rear: FR3Z2C190B

View attachment 59756

Thank you! This is really helpful, I need to invest in a scanner. My new hubs will be here tomorrow and I’m picking up new speed sensors at the dealer. I’ll do the install this weekend. Thanks again!!

 

[Nick20GTPP]

Update on my project. I removed the left rear wheel hub and found the problem. The bearing had play in it. I’m replacing with an OEM hub. When I removed the hub I found this retaining ring loose and mangled. Any tricks for these? Important to keep installed? Thanks in advance!!

 

[JAJ]

Update on my project. I removed the left rear wheel hub and found the problem. The bearing had play in it. I’m replacing with an OEM hub. When I removed the hub I found this retaining ring loose and mangled. Any tricks for these? Important to keep installed? Thanks in advance!!

View attachment 59829

I've done hubs and I don't recognize that ring - where did it come from? Is it the reluctor ring for the wheel speed sensor? If so, the new hub has a new ring - it's sealed in behind that ring of soft rubber coating that's on the inside of the hub.

 

[Nick20GTPP]

I've done hubs and I don't recognize that ring - where did it come from? Is it the reluctor ring for the wheel speed sensor? If so, the new hub has a new ring - it's sealed in behind that ring of soft rubber coating that's on the inside of the hub.

Thank you for the fast response! Here’s a pic of the ring in the passenger side (I’m replacing both hubs).

 

[JAJ]

Thank you for the fast response! Here’s a pic of the ring in the passenger side (I’m replacing both hubs).

View attachment 59830

It looks like it's actually part of the half-shaft, maybe a dust seal or something. What does the side that the destroyed one came off look like?

 

[thelostotter]

Here is the part number. I've heard of people running without them but I like the fact that they take the brunt of the damage when the bearing goes out. Might save the half shaft from the fretting.

 

[Nick20GTPP]

It looks like it's actually part of the half-shaft, maybe a dust seal or something. What does the side that the destroyed one came off look like?

Good point, maybe it’s a part of the half shaft. The drivers side half shaft looks perfect. Just the mangled seal/ring. I removed it and the hub fits on perfectly. I’m curious if the ring being mangled on the drivers side is what caused the hub bearing to fail.. I’ll do some more research to see if it’s needed before I do the final install. Thanks again!

 

[Nick20GTPP]

Here is the part number. I've heard of people running without them but I like the fact that they take the brunt of the damage when the bearing goes out. Might save the half shaft from the fretting.

View attachment 59831

Thank you! Any safety risk to running without them?

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

I’ve wondered if it’s ok to run without them too. Another theory I’ve read is that they prevent the half shaft from rust-welding to the hub.

Whatever the reason that thrust ring/washer could not get mangled until the nut loosens or the hub bearing starts coming apart already. In normal conditions It’s clamped between the hub and axle with 250-300ft lbs it’s not going anywhere.

 

[Nick20GTPP]

I’ve wondered if it’s ok to run without them too. Another theory I’ve read is that they prevent the half shaft from rust-welding to the hub.

Whatever the reason that thrust ring/washer could not get mangled until the nut loosens or the hub bearing starts coming apart already. In normal conditions It’s clamped between the hub and axle with 250-300ft lbs it’s not going anywhere.

Good point, makes sense that it was the bearing failure that caused the mangling of the ring. Looks like the aftermarket half shafts and the Ford Performance shafts do not use the ring.

 

[JAJ]

Good point, makes sense that it was the bearing failure that caused the mangling of the ring. Looks like the aftermarket half shafts and the Ford Performance shafts do not use the ring.

I suspect they're like the little spring clips that used to come on S197 wheel studs - put on during manufacturing to keep the pieces together until final assembly but otherwise not needed once the car's complete.

 

[Nick20GTPP]

I replaced both rear wheel hubs and the drivers side speed sensor. Advance trac, ABS, and Airbag lights all extinguished! However, the Steering Assist light is still on. I tried pulling/reseting the fuse and disconnecting the battery. Light is still on. Any ideas? Thanks again for all the feedback, I really appreciate it!

 

[thelostotter]

Do you still have power steering? One time my battery went low while loading a tune and I got that steering assist fault that I could not clear with my SCT X4. I had no power steering while that fault was present. I had to use Forscan to clear the code in the BCM and then the fault went away and power steering went back to normal.

 

[Nick20GTPP]

Do you still have power steering? One time my battery went low while loading a tune and I got that steering assist fault that I could not clear with my SCT X4. I had no power steering while that fault was present. I had to use Forscan to clear the code in the BCM and then the fault went away and power steering went back to normal.

No power steering. It’s not clearing with my generic OBDII scanner. I’m going to buy a Forscan code reader, I’ll give that a try. Thank you!