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Recommendation for a tow hook

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303
251
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
25 min. to 1½ hrs. from Sonoma (ugh... traffic!)
That's the reason I post questions ;) And I really really appreciate all the help.

The person you are talking about is probably @AJ Hartman. He has great videos about aero dynamics. We are in the process of making the splitter, so we are using cables during the prototyping/modifications, at the end we will another support beam and put rods, still not sure how many [may thanks to @Mad Hatter for help]. But even now, based on the bended support arms, it works ;)

As for downforce, based on what I remember about physics, downforce on the connector will be the same independent of the angle of the cable/rod. If anything cable will reduce the downforce at a single point du to better distribution of the weight. So I don't think there is any way this bracket would work if it would be rod and not cable. Here is a temporary solution we came up with:

View attachment 18029
 
@byronj I will eventually get rods, It is just while we are prototyping and modifying cables are much more flexible ;).

We will be in LS on 5th, and thanks you Alice started to love Thunderhill so we will be there on 12th...
 
Completely agree, now, let's continue with more trig. At the connection to the splitter arm we can split angular force (T) into horizontal and vertical component. Horizontal component is irrelevant since metal has very high tensile strength. Vertical component is the one which create bending and at this point it will be the same as original vertical force we started with (mg in the example).

Am I missing something here?
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Vadim, as mentioned before!! You get a lot of forces working on the splitter... I know mine looks like a teenager with braces and a retainer.... but its not going anyhere.
1593714125386.png

The only rods I found were at a rigging store so they were a little bulky, but they went with my nautical backraound :)
 
31
15
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Arizona
Hey guys I have the blowfish tow hooks brackets front and rear uninstalled. My splitter is currently using the OEM LS bracket using longacre rods with a 101blur (LS style splitter) . Am I downgrading by using the Blowfish splitter rod brackets with tow hook up front ?
Attached is my setup (bumper on , for reference)

I already spoke to Dan on Facebook but I just wanted to check in , so I had plan when I work on the car this weekend !

841555F0-BF40-4A73-8C00-60F2AE4CD8A2.jpeg
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,530
5,247
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
I have the blowfish front hook with the LS splitter.
No not a downgrade.
You are likely concern after seeing the bent mount on the car which used cables transverse across the splitter. The cable configuration exaggerates the forces on the mount. Don’t mount in that fashion and you will be fine.
I have run mine on track north of 140 MPH. With no issues.
 
31
15
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Arizona
I have the blowfish front hook with the LS splitter.
No not a downgrade.
You are likely concern after seeing the bent mount on the car which used cables transverse across the splitter. The cable configuration exaggerates the forces on the mount. Don’t mount in that fashion and you will be fine.
I have run mine on track north of 140 MPH. With no issues.
Awesome , thank you for the reassurance . I was a little nervous. After seeing the post yesterday . I’ll post up mine when done, to hopefully reassure the next guy!
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
1,180
1,419
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
South Carolina
Maybe you all could tell me what you think

5. Roll bar - maybe Maximum Motorsports 6pt with removable door bars

Didn't see this addressed specifically, but I would avoid the removable door bars. I bought it and almost immediately regretted it because I didn't even install them. I saw right away that they intrude too much and I was worried about bouncing any body parts off of them. Adding padding just makes that intrusion even worse. I'm sure someone will disagree, but you gain no additional safety with doors bars, and maybe even become less safe in a side impact if those things bend into the cabin. Full cages have door bars that are reinforced against side impact and pushed out into the gutted doors to keep them away from the drivers, in addition to padding. Save some money and just go with the four point.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Didn't see this addressed specifically, but I would avoid the removable door bars. I bought it and almost immediately regretted it because I didn't even install them. I saw right away that they intrude too much and I was worried about bouncing any body parts off of them. Adding padding just makes that intrusion even worse. I'm sure someone will disagree, but you gain no additional safety with doors bars, and maybe even become less safe in a side impact if those things bend into the cabin. Full cages have door bars that are reinforced against side impact and pushed out into the gutted doors to keep them away from the drivers, in addition to padding. Save some money and just go with the four point.

Yes, they really do intrude too much. We swapped the door bars arround and adapted them so the curve would be away from the driver.. Ment taking out the door lining to make it fit, but it was worth it.
 
106
52
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
So CA
Hey guys, since the Blowfish wrap-around front tow hook is no longer available, is the Ford Performance the best solid option out now? This is what I bought, of course requires drilling into the bumper beam, the tow ring juts out from under the beam (first pic is upside down showing the mount bolts).

IMG_9771.jpg

IMG_9770.jpg
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,530
5,247
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Trackdao

I recently added the Ford hook to the rear of my 350. It’s a solid piece requiring no cutting of the body.
Tip. Zip tie the inner bumper cover, black plastic piece, to the bumper bar. I chased this for 30 minutes, before I could get he t bumper cover in the proper location to snap back in place.
 

cholmes1

400lb Gorilla
350
216
Denver, CO
Trackdao

I recently added the Ford hook to the rear of my 350. It’s a solid piece requiring no cutting of the body.
Tip. Zip tie the inner bumper cover, black plastic piece, to the bumper bar. I chased this for 30 minutes, before I could get he t bumper cover in the proper location to snap back in place.

Any photos of your installation? Being a solid mount without a pin, I assume it does not allow for a license plate
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,530
5,247
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
License plate stays in place. The hook extends through the hole for the rear back up light, below the plate. No cutting beyond the three holes you drill in the inner bumper. Remove the light. tape the plug and harness and put the light on a shelf for when you may want to reinstall.

IMG_4741.JPG
 
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