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Removing the Stock Oil Cooler, what is needed?

With the failures of the stock oil cooler it might make sense to remove it. Now that Mishimoto has a t-stat sandwich plate specifically for our cars this project just became a lot easier to build.

If you remove the stock oil cooler what size cooler is needed to properly cool the oil? Also what parts are needed? Obviously you need the stock GT hoses to replace the Boss oil cooler hoses, new hoses from the sandwich plate to the cooler, a cooler, a cooler mount and a sandwich plate. Anything else?

Note: I'll update this post with links to parts as they are presented.


Mike is making a cooler mount:

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/any-interest-in-oil-cooler-mount-brackets.7448/

Mishomoto t-stat sandwich plate:

http://www.mishimoto.com/rear-mount-thermostatic-sandwich-plate-m-22.html

Setrab Oil coolers:

http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-25-row-series-oil-cooler-p-193.html

http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-34-row-series-oil-cooler-p-235.html

GT radiator hoses:

Motorcraft KM-5052 or KM-5136

Short oil filter adapter spud:

Ford P/N AL3Z6890A

Oil hoses:

??

AN fittings:

??

Other Oil Cooler Installs:

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/my-diy-oil-cooler-install-a-few-pics.6652/

https://trackmustangsonline.com/thr...or-a-barely-tracked-2013-gt-update-yes.11832/

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=7215.0;topicseen

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=3175.msg51292#msg51292

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=6673.0

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/in-light-of-oil-cooler-leaks.6703/
 
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steveespo

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Gary, All
Here is re post of what I did to eliminate the Boss water to oil cooler.
https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=2494.msg107954#msg107954

Rick has most of the parts listed, I used Setrab's 34 row cooler to maximize capacity and Improved Racings 180 thermostat block. You also need the "short" oil filter adapter spud from Ford P/N AL3Z6890A about $4.50 from Tousely Ford. I used an Ebay sourced adapter plate and it is nicely machined and blue anodized. Pay attention to how the hoses are routed at the engine, I used Aeroquip Braided lines for durability and a straight, and a 135 degree fitting at the adapter. Its real tight in there but I have everything fit with no hits. Where I mounted the T-stat is just about perfect and only requires a small window trimmed in the undertray.
I have run my car the last 2 days to test and the thermostat opens at 180 and closes again around 170, oil warms up much quicker and stays around 160 during cruise. i pushed on the highway, running 60 mph in 3rd gear at 5500 rpm just to get it up to 180. Happy so far, will have track results in a couple weeks.
Steve
 
Doing a bit more research on this the Ford Racing unit uses the Setrab 915 and Cooltech uses the 172 which is a series 1 72 row cooler. This has me wondering if the 925 will be enough. Thoughts?

http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-15-row-series-oil-cooler-p-233.html

http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-72-row-series-oil-cooler-p-247.html
 
NFSBOSS said:
Doing a bit more research on this the Ford Racing unit uses the Setrab 915 and Cooltech uses the 172 which is a series 1 72 row cooler. This has me wondering if the 925 will be enough. Thoughts?

http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-15-row-series-oil-cooler-p-233.html

http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-72-row-series-oil-cooler-p-247.html

I'd agree. Thinking the 934 34-row would be mo' betta.

Wondering also about the Mocal vs. Setrab. Mocal is considerably less cost...$329 for the 235 series Mocal 34 row vs. $408 for the Setrab 934.
 
Yea, I do not believe that the 925 cooler will work without the help of the factory water/oil cooler. 934, 948, 650, 660 and the 172 coolers will be the best when used without the factory cooler inline. Pressure drops across the cooler are something to keep in mind also, noting that the 172 cooler used in Cooltechs kit has the lowest pressure drop of 0.8 psi. The six series coolers are up next with the 9 series coolers with the most pressure drop when comparing equal cooling capacities. I would love to go with the 172 cooler, but price comes into that decision.
 
If the stock cooler circulates the coolant around the oil within the sandwich plate, which is my understanding, then you probably won't gain noticeable amount of pressure from removing the stock sandwich plate. Unless, the sandwich plate design hinders flow considerably, which I doubt.
 

steveespo

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Don't worry so much about pressure drop, I have not noticed any pressure change at all from my previous setup. Don't know how much a restriction the stock setup had but at 5000 rpm the oil pump is already in relief at 100 psi on the Boss and what I believe to be 80 psi on the GT. The benefits of oil in the proper temperature range far outweighs the loss of a few PSI.
Steve
 
After hearing about a friend of mines Aeroquip push-loc hose failure I'm considering having steel braided hoses made or using these from Mishimoto when I build my kit in May. Anyone have a better suggestion? These are somewhat pricey.
http://www.mishimoto.com/3ft-stainless-steel-braided-hose-w--10an-fittings.html
 

TMSBOSS

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HackBoss302 said:
After hearing about a friend of mines Aeroquip push-loc hose failure I'm considering having steel braided hoses made or using these from Mishimoto when I build my kit in May. Anyone have a better suggestion? These are somewhat pricey.
http://www.mishimoto.com/3ft-stainless-steel-braided-hose-w--10an-fittings.html

Making braided hoses is not that difficult. Use brainded stainless lines..

Check YouTube for videos, buy a few tools, less than $40.00, and make your hoses. Vice. Locks and a Koop tool in the appropriate size work great. Tape the line, cut, lube the inside of the line and screw it together.

Shop around for fittings and lines. Brained steel will resist wear. Braided cloth will wear and will require padding to avoid leaks.

Measure twice and then measure again. Work outward from the sandwich plate. Leave some slack and trim the hose at the cooler. Cable tie and clamp the lines where ever practical.

Took about 4 hours to fab and install the cooler on my Boss.

Pricey, yes.

Cost of a failed hose could be extreme depending upon where it fails. Worst case could be going into a corner and oiling down your tires.

Shop around and you can reduce costs.

Good luck
 
CrazyHorse1847 said:
Thoughts on this kit.

http://www.mishimoto.com/ford-mustang-5-0l-oil-cooler-kit-11-14.html
I think the kit looks fine...IF...you leave the stock cooler on. I called and talked to them and the way their kit is setup they won't allow you to upgrade the cooler to a larger one. They did not do any track testing with this kit.
 

drano38

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Can we refill our coolant without special tools/procedure?
I thought I read this winter that dealers have special equipment to prevent air pockets in the coolant system when changing it.
Is that true, or an over-precaution?
 
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NFSBOSS said:
Doing a bit more research on this the Ford Racing unit uses the Setrab 915 and Cooltech uses the 172 which is a series 1 72 row cooler. This has me wondering if the 925 will be enough. Thoughts?

http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-15-row-series-oil-cooler-p-233.html

http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-72-row-series-oil-cooler-p-247.html

The 925 and 172 are basically the same in btu capacity. If you are making your own kit, I would go with the 934 or 948.
 

steveespo

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drano38 said:
Can we refill our coolant without special tools/procedure?
I thought I read this winter that dealers have special equipment to prevent air pockets in the coolant system when changing it.
Is that true, or an over-precaution?

I highly recommend following the Ford shop manual on refilling coolant. The tool they spec is an "Air Lift" tool which after you drain the coolant, uses shop air to create a vacuum on the entire cooling system which you then use to draw the new coolant back into the car. Works like a dream and there are no trapped air pockets in the engine possible as long as the hose used to draw the coolant in remains submerged. It also tels you whether or not your system is leak free, I draw 24" of vacuum on and leave for 15 minutes, if the gauge doesn't drop then no leaks. Easy to use and I think I paid $100 for the kit on Amazon.com
Steve
 

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