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Review: MGW race-spec solid mount vs. MGW + Blowfish Racing bracket

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Some forum members have expressed an interest in comparisons between the current options for solid mounted shifters for the MT82, so I thought I would post this. I have driven and tracked my car with the factory shift assembly, a 2013 generation MGW, the same MGW with the Blowfish bracket, and the latest solid mounted MGW race-spec shifter. I have not driven a car with the factory shifter and a Blowfish bracket. The following are my impressions comparing the MGW race-spec solid mounted setup to the older MGW with the Blowfish Racing Bracket and the MGW shifter with the original body mount. My car has a fresh fill of Motorcraft DTC transmission fluid, with the XL-18 additive. The clutch assist spring has long since been removed.

Installation

The Blowfish bracket is an easier installation, requiring fewer tools and less time (unless you insist on keeping the MGW heat shield, like I did). Since the race-spec installation also involves the removal of the existing shifter, a higher level of mechanical comfort is probably a good idea, although neither assembly is particularly challenging to install. In either case, access to a lift makes the job much easier.When installing the race-spec, a transmission jack is a very useful tool to have around, since raising and lowering the transmission is a necessary part of the assembly.

Many owners of earlier MGW shifters report that the shifter had stiff shifts initially. After a break-in period of 500-1000 miles, the shifter loosened up and adopted what would be its normal shift behavior. The race-spec does not seem to require this break-in period. Shifts are smooth and easy from the outset. The one area where a break-in period may exist is with the push down reverse lockout.

Shift precision/feel

Both solid mount units significantly increase the solidity of the shift mechanism. In both cases, the shifts feel very positive, without the flex that I still felt in the body mounted shifter assembly, although the earlier MGW was much improved over the factory assembly. To my mind, both assemblies make the shift box feel like it is anchored in concrete, with only the shift linkage moving. The MGW race-spec’s shift linkage, replacing the factory’s jointed linkage, offers several benefits over the standard MGW/Blowfish assembly. First, there is an additional level of shift precision over the Blowfish/MGW combination. Related to this is a reduced level of shifter effort going from gear to gear, that I would characterize as a “lighter” shift feel as compared to earlier versions of the MGW. It’s been some time since I drove a Boss with a stock shifter, but I perceive the shift effort of the race-spec to be closer to that of the stock unit, without the vagueness or sloppiness. Second, the feeling of not being fully in gear (especially first gear) is gone with the new linkage. In the past, there were occasions when I would engage first gear at a standstill and not be sure I was really in gear (a couple of times I wasn’t!), causing me to shift to neutral and then back into first just to be sure. With the new linkage, shifts are positive all the way to the end of the gate. Third, the 4-5 and 5-6 upshifts are improved with the race-spec linkage. There is less resistance to the 4-5 shift, and the 5-6 shift does not require as much side effort in order to keep the return springs from wanting to shift the gear lever back down to 4th. My initial thought was that the return spring was weker than in previous MGWs, but George told me that the spring was the same and that the new linkage eliminated the resistance in those shifts caused by binding in the jointed factory linkage. This change makes the shifter more pleasant for me to use in daily driving. Finally, my perception is that the race-spec is slightly smoother when the transmission fluid is cold.

NVH

IMPORTANT: I am one of the people that encountered a significant rattle after installing the blowfish bracket. Upon removal of the bracket, we discovered the following: There was NO evidence of any contact between the MGW rear mount and the body studs. There was no wear on the mount, nor was there any wear on the fuel line hose used to wrap the body studs. There was no evidence of any contact between the shift assembly and the body at any point. The Blowfish bracket was in place for 4 months, about 5000 miles, and 3 track events. The race-spec uses a completely new shift assembly, right down to the shift ball and jam nut. It mounts to the transmission at different points than the Blowfish bracket. The rattle I experienced after installing the Blowfish bracket STILL EXISTS with the race-spec, albeit reduced by 80%. I will continue to pursue this rattle, but I believe it is either an issue with the driveline due to removal and reinstallation of the transmission in order to replace the clutch, or a harmonic due to the vagaries of human construction and/or wear and use. It is clear to me that the Blowfish bracket was NOT the cause of the rattle, merely an amplifier.

During steady state driving, both units are quiet. I believe there is slightly more shift ball vibration with the race-spec than the MGW/Blowfish, but neither assembly turns that vibration into audible noise. In neither case is the vibration uncomfortable to the touch nor does the vibration effect shift operation. The MGW race-spec is better at dampening larger vibrations than the Blowfish assembly, as the rattling noise I experience is only a flutter with the race-spec vs. the sound of someone shaking a bag of metal washers with the MGW/Blowfish unit. This is not surprising, as the race-spec has several bushings to attenuate noise and vibration, where the Blowfish bracket does not. Interestingly, applying light hand pressure (resting a hand on the shift ball) decreased the rattle in the MGW/Blowfish rig, but increases it in the race-spec assembly. In both cases, the gear lever displays similar amounts of movement under acceleration; neither is excessive. As an assembly note, when we removed the Blowfish bracket to install the race-spec, one of the rear mount bolts on the Blowfish assembly was only slightly more than finger tight, even with the lock washer and the amount of torque specified in the installation instructions. Even though not called for, I would recommend blue loctite on all fasteners when installing the Blowfish bracket. Because of the amount of heat, one might consider red loctite on the fasteners for the rear mount, especially as there is no need for adjustment on this part of the assembly.

At the track

It is my experience that the MT82 transmission prefers a positive hand when shifting, rather than a tentative one, that it shifts better under heavier loads than under lighter loads, and that it shifts better hot than cold. At the track, where all of these conditions occur, I found relatively little difference between the two set ups. Both allowed me to upshift up to the redline without experiencing lockout. Upshifts above 7000 RPM had been a problem for me in the past, especially the 4-5 upshift, where high RPM lockout would cause me to have to let the revs drop, then attempt the upshift again. In the alternative, I could short shift the transmission, trading power for proper operation. This problem was not eliminated by installing the original MGW shifter. Installing the Blowfish bracket with the MGW eliminated the lockouts, and let me shift at high RPMs with complete confidence. I have also had 100% success with high RPM upshifts using the MGW race-spec shifter. In general, on track shifting with both units was entirely satisfactory to me. Upshifts and downshifts were positive and direct, and I quickly found it easy to drive without fear of missing a gear using either setup. The on throttle rattling noise was again more evident with the MGW/Blowfish setup, but I don’t consider that to be a significant issue on track.

Summary

I think the new linkage in the MGW race-spec shifter is a pretty big deal. It gives a feeling of precision and confidence on all shifts that was missing before, even with an older MGW with or without the Blowfish bracket. It also reduces shift effort for all shifts, especially those at the extreme edges of the shift pattern where the factory linkage was having to twist the most. While the solid mounting systems of the Blowfish bracket and the race-spec display their largest benefits under heavy load, the race-spec’s linkage offers benefits on every shift, regardless of circumstance. In my opinion, the new linkage in the race-spec shifter makes it the performance shifter of choice for everyday driving.

If you already own an MGW shifter, adding a Blowfish bracket will increase the solidity of your shifts and should eliminate the problem of high RPM shift lockout (it did for me). It is an easy installation and can be done with limited facilities. It is also less expensive than the MGW race-spec shifter. On the flip side, it will amplify any existing driveline noise and vibration. If your goal is to make the shifts in your Mustang the best they can possibly be (up to this point), the linkage in the new race-spec shifter does improve the total package beyond the capabilities of the Blowfish enhanced older MGW shifter. The race-spec has better noise attenuation capabilities, which may have additional value over time as the car’s components wear. There is also an elegance in design, construction, and materials to all of MGW’s products that to me is simply unmatched.

Finally, while this review does not address the stock shifter, I believe if you are generally happy with the shifting of the stock unit but would like a little more solidity and precision for daily driving and occasional track use, adding a Blowfish bracket to the stock unit is a simple and worthwhile investment. If you are a more frequent and harder user of your car, you value the features and benefits of the MGW shifter you already own, or you can’t rest until your car is everything it can be, get hold of MGW and order a race-spec shifter.
 
I had the first generation Blowfish bracket, using the original MGW rear mount. As I understand it, the second generation Blowfish bracket for the MGW shifter uses a rear mount that is designed to provide more clearance for the unit in relation to the body studs for the factory remote rear shifter mount. Like the MGW mount, the Blowfish mount uses rubber bushings as an additional insulator. Since I had no contact issues between the rear mount and the body studs, I don't see how the new Blowfish rear mount will have any significant effect on NVH vs. the MGW mount. In fact, the MGW mount uses significantly more rubber isolation between the twin shafts coming out of the back of the MGW shifter box and the metal mount than does the 2nd generation Blowfish bracket.
 
Interesting comparison. I've got the 1st gen MGW with the 1st gen Blowfish bracket, so am using the original MGW rear mount upside down. I swapped to the stiffer of the two elastomers MGW supplies for the rear moung when I installed the BF bracket. I've really had no noticeable change in NVH from stock, the main change is that I can see the shifter moving around a little but very minor. All of my previous manual cars had top-loaded shifters, so this seems normal to me.
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
well done sir! thats a very honest evaluation. the shifting experiences, i expected. the noise is the real interesting one for me, as it has been a main focus in development lately. your driveline is definitely on the outer limits of harmonics, as there are very few who used the mgw and blowfish with noise that couldn't be attributed to some contact...and backed it up by replacing every part of the noise machine (with the race spec) and still have some level of it. i would be very interested to see what a different MT82 would do in your car. i don't wish that problem for you, just from an analytical standpoint. i venture a guess that the noise would disappear.
 
I'm willing to bet that the noise is a result of something involving the removal and reinstallation of the transmission to replace the clutch, pressure plate, and slave cylinder (performed under warranty). I cannot verify this, however, because I was still using the remote/body mount for the old MGW when the clutch was replaced. I can say that I had no rattle using the remote mount with the driveline post clutch replacement, so whether the rattle existed prior to or only after the clutch replacement, the remote mount successfully damped it. The rattle became apparent immediately after solidly mounting the shifter, and displayed the same symptoms (on throttle, most noticeable at 3000-4000 rpm) as contact between the relocated rear mount and the body studs, so it was easy enough to assume the contact was creating the rattle, which in my case turned out to be incorrect. The rattle has some interesting characteristics: more noticeable in the rear shift position gears (2, 4), more noticeable going uphill than downhill, more noticeable hot than cold. I also noticed that, subsequent to the clutch replacement, the notchiness (sic) of the gearbox is worse, especially the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Oh, well, two steps forward, one step back...
 
HELP NEEDED!

I recently installed the MGW Race Spec shifter along with a single drive shaft today. Most everything went without a problem until it came to test drive the car. When I took it out, the shifter (ball, shaft) had a significant rattle to it through all gears. It was less prominent in 6th gear vs the rest.

At first we thought the safety loop for the driveshaft was the cause as it nearly rested on top of it. But we removed the loop just to see if this was the reason for the rattle and it was not.

I am seeking anyone on the boards who has this shifter installed to chime in with their experience or thoughts as to why I am getting such a bad vibration. Next step will be to call George and see what he can tell me or recommend.

Thank you for your help!
 
I have the first generation MGW shifter,Blow Fish bracket & rear mount,and 1 piece aluminum Drive Shaft . I do get a small rattle under hard acceleration. I allways thought this was coming from the sloppy OEM linkage,but it sounds like the Race Spec MGW shifter may rattle as well,so that's not it. Shifting is so much better than the stock unit ,or the body mounted MGW,but the down side more NVH.Thanks for the review,I would love to try the Race Spec MGW, but $$$$, hope to solve the Rattle.
 
1,022
99
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Texas
Some questions that may help us lead you to an answer:

1. Is your car stock ride height?
2. Do you have any after market suspension components on the rear of your car i.e. adjustable upper or lower control arms?
3. Have you checked the length of the driveshaft for wear marks? An aluminum driveshaft will score easily and show you right where it is rubbing.
4. Is the driveshaft the correct length? This will be apparent on the install as it will be difficult to get it to fit properly.

I ask some of these questions because I am curious if you pinion angle is set correctly. With the two piece stock unit it isn't as paramount having it set perfectly because there is an angle change in the driveline at the second mounting point going back to the rear differential.

5. Did you remember to remove the small piece of felt (maybe it was foam) from the stock shifter cup and install it in the MGW?
 
Flyboygsxr said:
Some questions that may help us lead you to an answer:

1. Is your car stock ride height?
No
2. Do you have any after market suspension components on the rear of your car i.e. adjustable upper or lower control arms?
No
3. Have you checked the length of the driveshaft for wear marks? An aluminum driveshaft will score easily and show you right where it is rubbing.
Checked and double checked.....proper length
4. Is the driveshaft the correct length? This will be apparent on the install as it will be difficult to get it to fit properly.
Checked and double checked...proper length

I ask some of these questions because I am curious if you pinion angle is set correctly. With the two piece stock unit it isn't as paramount having it set perfectly because there is an angle change in the driveline at the second mounting point going back to the rear differential.

5. Did you remember to remove the small piece of felt (maybe it was foam) from the stock shifter cup and install it in the MGW?
Yes, had Gen 1 MGW installed prior.
 
1,022
99
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Texas
So your car is not stock ride height and you don't have an adjustable UCA?

Which driveshaft do you have and how much lower is your car than stock? Did you check the pinion angle? This might not be your problem but it can be another problem you are facing. When I had my pinion angle set incorrectly I had a vibration. Readjusted the pinion angle and the vibration was gone.
 
Flyboygsxr said:
So your car is not stock ride height and you don't have an adjustable UCA?

Which driveshaft do you have and how much lower is your car than stock? Did you check the pinion angle? This might not be your problem but it can be another problem you are facing. When I had my pinion angle set incorrectly I had a vibration. Readjusted the pinion angle and the vibration was gone.

I do not recall the change in ride height and I do not have adjustable UCA's.

I have a driveshaft from The Driveshaft Shop which was installed in a buddy's 2012 Boss for a short period of time. I don't believe the pinion angle changed if any. Will double check tomorrow but it's unlikely.
 
Flyboygsxr said:
Some questions that may help us lead you to an answer:

1. Is your car stock ride height?
2. Do you have any after market suspension components on the rear of your car i.e. adjustable upper or lower control arms?
3. Have you checked the length of the driveshaft for wear marks? An aluminum driveshaft will score easily and show you right where it is rubbing.
4. Is the driveshaft the correct length? This will be apparent on the install as it will be difficult to get it to fit properly.

I ask some of these questions because I am curious if you pinion angle is set correctly. With the two piece stock unit it isn't as paramount having it set perfectly because there is an angle change in the driveline at the second mounting point going back to the rear differential.

5. Did you remember to remove the small piece of felt (maybe it was foam) from the stock shifter cup and install it in the MGW?

I would wonder about this as well as the plastic cup itself as I just finished this install this past weekend using my previously installed DSS Aluminum DS, BMR DS Loop with BMR adjustable UCA and Hotchkis LCA, lowered on T springs with relo brackets and no substantial NVH increase over the previously installed MGW 2014 shifter. Let us know please.
 
Got everything all sorted out on the rattle problem which was the after market shifter with seperate cylinder sleeve between it and the boot. Switched back to the stock shifter and all noise/rattle is gone.

Problem now is the MGW race spec shifter and aluminum driveshaft are in but adding the safety loop causes a vibration/noise as it rests on each other. There is not enough clearance between the two.

What are my solutions to this?

1. Remove the safety loop all together and run without it?
- Is this a smart decision as the car is not run on the drag strip

2. Grind the loop down to create some spacing?
- Worried to how much would need to be taken down.

3. Reduce the height of the safety loop to avoid the driveshaft?
- Not sure if this is even an option as there is little clearance between the loop and driveshaft.

4. Some other alternative?
- Return to stock driveshaft
 
F.D. Sako said:
How about some high temp rubber or foam padding between the two, before you make any permanent modifications :p

We already tried something along those lines with no success. Over a short duration, the foam padding just got shredded and eventually led to metal on metal again.
 

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