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Rotatable GT350 Square Wheel-Tire Setup

1,097
1,063
In the V6L
Considering a 2016 GT350 Track Pack that has the LMR GT350R replica wheels on it. They are +60 offset according to LMR https://lmr.com/item/SVE-177912H/sve-r350-wheel-black-19x11-15-18 . The car currently has them staggered but I thought I would buy two more 19x11's to run a square setup if the deal works out. What spacer would I need upfront for a +60 wheel or will it even work at all?
I run the factory 11" ET62 rear rims with a 35mm spacer up front and it works fine for me, and it would also work fine with ET60's. The important question is "will the rear rims clear the front brakes with that spacer in place?" They should, but it's best to test-fit first.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
6,524
5,469
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
Wow , that is one giant spacer ( 1.4 inches ) , and I had a hard time using a 1 inch one. Guess that is an option , but thanks for posting the size as that could be a detriment to some, imho. Obviously not bothering you, and I appreciate your honest candor as it may help others makes a decision like yours?
 
1,097
1,063
In the V6L
Actually, I think it's Ford's engineering forethought that we're seeing in action. The OEM 11" ET62 rear rim with a 1.50" (38mm) spacer is the EXACT same dimensions as the OEM front CF rim - ET24. Not only that, the GT350R OEM front studs are EXACTLY the right length for using the OEM lug nuts for that combination. Is this a fluke? I doubt it...

So, since I couldn't find a suitable 38mm spacer, I bought a pair of the Eibach 35mm spacers with the extra row of studs and pressed the studs out. Works like a charm.
 
Another Square / Rotatable Set-Up :
( Shameless TMO Plug: Three year student of GT350, I have learned a lot from this Forum's no B.S. advice & info..Thanks, VooDoo Boss et al...)

Caliperfexion brake caliper studs (of course)
ARP Wheel Studs
25mm Front Spacers from OP Mustang
Apex
11" x 19 ET 52 SM-10 Wheels ( in always dirty race silver )
Pirelli 315-780-19 slicks ( I buy take-offs; these are rear tires from Ferrari or Lambo Cup Cars...)

First Track day on this set-up 3 days ago @ TH felt great, however I think the monster front footprint and 2" wider front stance resulted in a bit of push (understeer), running -1.9 of Camber without plates, but now I think for sure I need Camber plates to run a bit more..Physics suggests understeer would be an expected result of this change, correct? Thinking of buying Steeda Camber Plates @ approx. 250$, as Vorschlag are pretty, but @ 500$ offer no more range/ease of adjustment, and I don't care what they look like under the hood...Yeah? Open to suggestions

Incidentlly, best drive-up/street tires for the GT 350 IMHO is NITTO NT-01 305-30/19 on all four corners. They work with the OEM rims front and rear, Treadwear # of 100 is WAY more sticky than Michelin anythings, and they cost only a bit more than OEM Michelins..( 1600-1800$ mounted and balanced )...

I squeezed the hell out of my lemon; heading back to the juicer with or without the Camber plates in 10 days...
 
John Berget Racing Tires: Family buisness out of Wisconsin, selling tires to racers for 47 years, he mentioned...
The website is JB Racing Tires, its never updated with anything, you have to call and see what he has...(Tele. # on the website)
If you're running 18's like I can't on the GT350 you have a lot more options for sticky rubber.
 
43
23
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Fresno, ca
Bumping from the dead instead of making a new thread.

Does everyone on this site call wheels "rims"? 😂

But seriously...
Am I reading right that the front studs on a 350R are long enough to run an aftermarket wheel along with a full 35mm spacer??
Is the front end of the 350 the same as the R?
I've been trying to find a cheap set of aftermarket wheels for getting to/from the track and it looks like a front spacer is going to be 100% necessary.
Not buying aftermarket studs would be a huge relief.
Thanks, in advance.
 
100
44
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
So CA
They are really easy to clean i just use a wheel brush on the barrels and a mit on the face. I made sure to coat them before i put them on so brake dust doesn't really stick to them.

OK, what do you guys 'coat' these Apex wheels, or others, with before events? Any current best products?
 

Ludachris

Chris
Staff member
Moderator
1,411
1,618
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Newcastle, CA
Does everyone on this site call wheels "rims"? 😂
Not all of us :)
OK, what do you guys 'coat' these Apex wheels, or others, with before events? Any current best products?
I hadn't even noticed people talking about coating their wheels to protect them at events. Interesting.
 
1,097
1,063
In the V6L
Bumping from the dead instead of making a new thread.

Does everyone on this site call wheels "rims"? 😂

But seriously...
Am I reading right that the front studs on a 350R are long enough to run an aftermarket wheel along with a full 35mm spacer??
Is the front end of the 350 the same as the R?
I've been trying to find a cheap set of aftermarket wheels for getting to/from the track and it looks like a front spacer is going to be 100% necessary.
Not buying aftermarket studs would be a huge relief.
Thanks, in advance.
1. Yes the R front studs are long enough for up to a 38mm spacer, so anything shorter works too. Keep in mind if you only run 25mm spacers, you'll need open-end lug nuts because the studs will be too long.
2. Yes, with the exception that the wheel hubs on the R have the longer studs, the mechanics are the same on both versions of the GT350. And yes, before someone corrects me, the 2020 R has a different knuckle, but it still takes the same hub. Now, when it comes to money, think this through carefully. The R hubs just bolt into place on the GT350 knuckle - it's a direct swap. Downside, the hubs are not inexpensive, and a set of R wheel studs, which are available separately, are priced in the stratosphere. If you don't need the full length, say you're only going to run a 25mm spacer, you might find it less expensive to swap in a set of ARP 1" extended studs.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,715
3,916
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
Brake dust, usually, and a lot of it.
What he said. I have run stock and Pagid pads. Both make dust and both clean off with soap and water. Not sure if the reason they clean up easily is because of the materials Apex uses or the pads I use. If you are looking to keep brake dust off the wheel, the only proven method is to park the car. Dust happens.
 
4
0
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Jose, CA
I'm looking at ordering wheels. I have a stock'ish GT350 with stock wheels.

Option 1:
  • Apex EC-7RS 19x11 ET 52 square all around
  • ARP 100-7733 studs
  • OP Mustange 25mm spacers
Option 2:
  • Apex EC-7RS 19x11 ET 52 rear
  • Apex EC-7RS 19x11 ET 26 front

I think (trying to clarify my understanding here) the benefits of Option 1 is I can rotate (not sure exactly how helpful this is). Benefit of Option 2 is I can swap back to stock wheels with more street oriented rubber. I'm new to tracking (only 3 days), but felt like my PS4S were getting greasy on track and am thinking about running PS4S on street and Goodyear SC3 on track wheels. Seems with Option 1, I'm not sure if its easy to swap back to stock wheels.
 
I run square on all my track cars (Miata NC, GT350, 302S clone). Heavy front engine cars like Mustangs make them more prone to understeer. The more meat you can put up front, the less likely that will happen. You also get a bit more life out of your tires being able to swap front to back. And yet another advantage: being able to monitor tire wear from corner to corner offers you additional info about your suspension set up....and driving style/technique.
 
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41
49
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Erlanger, KY
I will second @TMSBOSS that going between stock and square is quick and easy (assuming you have the studs needed to fit the offset in the front). I use Apex SM-10 in 19x11 in ET52 offset. I also have a pair of Apex 25mm spacers in the front for these wheels. I do not rotate wheels between sessions unless I am going between stock and Apex wheels. I just lift the car on one side, change both wheels (and use a Sharpe to write which location that tire goes next to cross-rotate), and repeat. This helps a lot with wear for someone like me who is 10 HPDE days in and still learning to not over-drive the entry and oversteer the entire outside shoulder away while the inside looks new.
 

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