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RXT clutch with Spec flywheel?

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675
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Thank you for that info about the clutch line, Flyboygsxr. I will check mine this weekend because I did have an aftermarket one installed when I had the clutch put in.

RST seems to be the best choice for me. Are you RST guys using the McLeod lightened steel flywheel? This is the part number Billy@McLeod gave me.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-steel-flywheel-8bolt.html

I would prefer to have an alloy flywheel since I have one already and love how it made the Roadrunner even more responsive.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,551
5,283
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
I run the RST with the lightened steel flywheel.

I considered the aluminum fly wheel but decided against it. I was concerned about the lack of inertia causing drivability issues on the street. If she was a track only car, I would have the aluminum fly wheel.
 
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TMSBOSS said:
I run the RST with the lightened steel flywheel.

I considered the aluminum fly wheel but decided against it. I was concerned about the lack of inertia causing drivability issues on the street. If she was a track only car, I would have the aluminum fly wheel.

I had the aluminum flywheel with my RXT. It is great for a dedicated track car like my Boss, but for a street car I would use the steel. You need to slip the clutch more with the aluminum flywheel which amplifies the on/off type nature of the McLeod clutches.
 
675
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Ok thank you for that advice, guys. My Spec clutch is very off/on and the aluminum flywheel exacerbates it I think but it is manageable for me. Other people would probably hate it but it's not bad.
 
675
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Just a simple google search by part number lists the aluminum one at 15.1lbs

https://www.amazon.com/McLeod-563408-Flywheel/dp/B00TO600OW

Lightened steel is 20.6lbs

https://www.amazon.com/McLeod-463458-Flywheel/dp/B006ZLGLHY

My Spec alloy flywheel is listed as 15lbs.
 
675
253
23lbs?

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/tech-qa/1503-whats-the-weight-difference-between-a-5-0l-and-aluminator-coyote/
 
675
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Thank you for everyone's thoughts on this subject - I had an RST and lightened alloy flywheel installed on Friday and the clutch has 100% eradicated the high rpm lockout. It is like driving a different car. I can shift at 7500+ all day long and it goes in so easily. Makes me love the car all over again!
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,551
5,283
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Good To hear.

I have the RST.

I went the long way around the barn to get one. Shifter, trans lube, bracket etc. then I bought the clutch.

Oh well.

All made some improvement. The clutch made the most. I had no idea how much pressure was required to shift with the stock set up....until I installed the RST.

Now get out there and drive her. LOL.
 
675
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Hah yes sir! In hindsight, I should just have done the RST first. Like you, I did all of the usual stuff first (even going so far as putting in a new Spec Stage 1 clutch and alloy flywheel) and none of it helped the lockouts. At all.
 
It's because we all hope that the cheaper mods will fix the problem... until you listen to everyone's advice and accept the expense of a clutch replacement.
Problem is, when people wait too long and get frequent lockouts, they end up damaging synchros and gears, adding a rebuild to the equation. That's when the "MT-82 is crap" song starts. I know, because I sang it until I replaced the clutch myself ::)
 
675
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Well . . . in my defense I did put a new clutch in after not solving it with Whiteline bushing, stainless clutch line, MGW (early design), and Blowfish bracket. I went with a vendor recommended new clutch (Spec Stg 1) and it changed exactly nothing (except for super stiff pedal).

So yes, I have now had 2 separate clutches/flywheels installed on a car with less than 8k miles total. Donations are gladly accepted.

But, most importantly, it shifts beautifully at all revs now so I could not be happier. I've been lucky enough to drive a lot of hot cars over the years and the Bosses are still at the top of my list.
 
Really glad it worked out at the end, because some people might've ditched the car after the first clutch replacement.
I know that thought would've ran my mind if I were in that situation!
 
675
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Hah yeah I hear ya - the T56 Magnum XL kept coming up but thankfully I don't need it. The MT82 shifts really well and the ratios are pretty much perfect for stock-ish diameter tires.

And, at the end of the day, a Boss is a Boss and that makes it cooler than pretty much anything else out there.
 
F.D. Sako said:
It's because we all hope that the cheaper mods will fix the problem... until you listen to everyone's advice and accept the expense of a clutch replacement.
Problem is, when people wait too long and get frequent lockouts, they end up damaging synchros and gears, adding a rebuild to the equation. That's when the "MT-82 is crap" song starts. I know, because I sang it until I replaced the clutch myself ::)
Been there done that. The stock clutch is the cars achilles heel and it's too bad Ford never did anything about it. Oh well. The Boss 302 and any 2011+ Mustang with an MT-82 that is driven hard would be well served by replacing the clutch immediately with a McLeod RST and lightened steel flywheel. I really think that many of us damaged the trans before we replaced the stock clutch which leads to trans failures further down the road. My trans broke three times (all after my RXT was installed), twice by me and once by the guy that bought my car, and was finally replaced with a new trans the third time all under warranty.

Anyone driving a Boss or any GT on the street and taking it to the track should consider the RST (or similar clutch) before damaging your trans at the track or at high RPM's. @Sydewaysix take note!

Just curious if anyone knows if the 2015+ GT's have the same issue or did Ford install a dual disc clutch in those cars like they did with the GT350? @voodoo child21
 
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Wow that is crazy, Rick - three times?? Synchros or the gears themselves?

To my knowledge, the 5.0 GTs still use single disc clutches. Obviously, the 350 has twin disc and a different gearbox altogether. I will be curious to see if people installing the FRPP Stage 1-3 Performance Packs (with GT350 IM and bumped rev limit) on their '15-17 GTs start having shifting issues.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,015
1,958
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
I run my '16 GT to 7800 rpm with Stock clutch (single plate) and a MGW race spec with no issues except an occasional feeling that the pedal wants to stick to the floor. It never has but anyone that has had it happen knows that feel. I am putting an Exedy Hyper Twin into my Baus to replace the McLeod RST. The RST works well, although I did have a cracked pressure plate mounting tab at Road America in 2015, replaced it and it has been fine. Exedy seems to make the best race clutch according many of the Mustang race teams.
Steve
 

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