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Seeking advice / opinions on set up. If redundant just delete

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2,199
1,065
Bay Area
Here is my current set up and not to specs since I forgot and lost my paper work on the GC coilovers. The springs are Eibach and Koni's rated to as close to stock as possible. (again don't recall exact specs but I know thats what I asked GC for)

Currently I have CG coilers, CC plates, and panhard bar. The car looks great and rides like it should, BUT it gets the usual wheel hop and I don't feel it is balanced quit right.(never has been and thats why I haven been on the track with this set up). I have 18x9.5 rims with 275/40/18s (GF Goodrich Sport Comps) all around. AGIAN This is the way the car is set up currently.

Now I do have LCAs, LCA brackets that I could install and start messing with that but I don't know which location to put them in.

My options are install the LCAs and brackets and see what I get out of that or go back to FRPP K springs with stock struts, install CC plates, and use the LCAs and start from there. I don't track the car much and 2017 should be a pretty consistent track year for me. My track rims will be Apex 18x10 with Nittos 285/40/10 all around.

So what "can of worms" am I opening for myself here. All suggestions and input welcome. And as always it will be a toy when I want to drive it. I am also installing RSD and will upgrade to a roller soon so I don't know where that will come into play with rigidity and suspension.

Thanks in advance for all input.
 
Which LCA's do you have? Upgraded LCA's usually cure the wheel hop problem.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
You did one or two things that will make hop worse (sooner onset) than stock.

1. Lower grip tire. Given no other changes, a lower grip tire will start to hop sooner.

2. Lower the rear end? Not sure you did this, but your hop issues make it seem likely. Forward grip is reduced as the rear is lowered, if the rear LCA connection isn't lowered by at least the same amount using brackets. LCAs reduce hop by restraining the motion allowed by OEM bushings.


Eibach spring rates should be printed on the spring. If they are close to stock, you should have either 200 or 175. If 175, then that would be one more thing to increase hop over stock.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,519
8,155
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Wheel Hop is very often due to flexing control arms/bushings and/or poor geometry.
If your lower trailing arms point down to the front your likely hood of having wheel hop goes way up.
Somewhere else we talked about antisquat and roll steer so I wont get on my soapbox again, but you might want to search those keywords as this has been covered by myself and others and I think you may find the read worthwhile.


But, WTHDIK?
 
2,199
1,065
Bay Area
Fabman said:
Wheel Hop is very often due to flexing control arms/bushings and/or poor geometry.
If your lower trailing arms point down to the front your likely hood of having wheel hop goes way up.
Somewhere else we talked about antisquat and roll steer so I wont get on my soapbox again, but you might want to search those keywords as this has been covered by myself and others and I think you may find the read worthwhile.


But, WTHDIK?

AND THIS IS WHY I love and hate and LOVE this place. Its so easy yet so confusing. Thanks for all your input.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Suspension dynamics are complicated even if the solutions can be simple. My apologies for any confusion I create.

Fabman said:
Wheel Hop is very often due to flexing control arms/bushings and/or poor geometry.
If your lower trailing arms point down to the front your likely hood of having wheel hop goes way up.
Fabman clarifies the hop issues very well^. Especially the 'and/or' part above.

Waaay back...even with stock control arms, with enough anti-squat (bracket plus lowering spring) and a bigger tire, it wouldn't hop at all.

Conversely, hop *can* be fixed by geometry and/or stiffness. Many ways to skin the cat, and not only through controlling flex.
 
2,199
1,065
Bay Area
Grant 302 said:
Suspension dynamics are complicated even if the solutions can be simple. My apologies for any confusion I create.
Fabman clarifies the hop issues very well^. Especially the 'and/or' part above.

Waaay back...even with stock control arms, with enough anti-squat (bracket plus lowering spring) and a bigger tire, it wouldn't hop at all.

Conversely, hop *can* be fixed by geometry and/or stiffness. Many ways to skin the cat, and not only through controlling flex.

Thanks Grant, neither you you Sal are confusing me. It just all the variables involved. If I was smart I would have don't it right when I installed the GC set up but obviously I wasn't and wanted to lower the car right away. At that time I dint think it would become a track car. And now that I want to get on the track I want to get it semi-sorted before I get on tracks I don't know.
But, I did drop the car significantly and I know that when I changed the angles it made the wheel hope a little worse with stock rims / tires and my current set up.

Thanks
B
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,519
8,155
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
byronj said:
Thanks Grant, neither you you Sal are confusing me. It just all the variables involved. If I was smart I would have don't it right when I installed the GC set up but obviously I wasn't and wanted to lower the car right away. At that time I dint think it would become a track car. And now that I want to get on the track I want to get it semi-sorted before I get on tracks I don't know.
But, I did drop the car significantly and I know that when I changed the angles it made the wheel hope a little worse with stock rims / tires and my current set up.

Thanks
B
Bring it over and we'll put it on the lift and have a look at 'er....
 
2,199
1,065
Bay Area
UPDATE on my GC coiler set up. "Original setup the CG coiler kit is with 7"/430# front springs and 10"/200# rear springs"

Currently I have CG coilers, CC plates, and panhard bar. BUT it gets the usual wheel hop and I don't feel it is balanced quit right.(never has been and thats why I haven been on the track with this set up). I have 18x9.5 rims with 275/40/18s (GF Goodrich Sport Comps) all around.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,519
8,155
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
byronj said:
UPDATE on my GC coiler set up. "Original setup the CG coiler kit is with 7"/430# front springs and 10"/200# rear springs"

Currently I have CG coilers, CC plates, and panhard bar. BUT it gets the usual wheel hop and I don't feel it is balanced quit right.(never has been and thats why I haven been on the track with this set up). I have 18x9.5 rims with 275/40/18s (GF Goodrich Sport Comps) all around.
Personally, I would go straight to the Lower control arm brackets and set the angle a few degrees (3 or so) up to the front of the car and start with that.
If the geometry is messed up it will be harder to balance using other means.
Once that is right I'd check all the sway bars for binds.
Then I would ask you...what's it do that you don't like? And go from there.
Balancing the car is easy....finding the fastest possible combination is a whole other thing.
 
2,199
1,065
Bay Area
Fabman said:
Personally, I would go straight to the Lower control arm brackets and set the angle a few degrees (3 or so) up to the front of the car and start with that.
If the geometry is messed up it will be harder to balance using other means.
Once that is right I'd check all the sway bars for binds.
Then I would ask you...what's it do that you don't like? And go from there.
Balancing the car is easy....finding the fastest possible combination is a whole other thing.


Thanks, maybe I can tackle that this weekend.
 
598
536
When I ran the same Ground Control coil overs on my 2005 GT. , I ran 475 lbs front 150lbs rear with the Eibach sway bars 35mm front on full stiff, 22mm rear. BMR wield in Anti squat brackets, Polly bushings in stock lower control arms, Upper arm was Edlebrock's. Ground Control panhard bar. This set up was used for Autocross. The balance was dead on, turn in was sharp, no mid corner push, corner exit was floored using 275-35-17' Kumho's DOT race tires at the time. I won the Fresno ESP Championship in 2005 with that set up. Now with wider wheels and tires, I feel it would be much faster. Just my $.02
 

Gab

Bullitthead
Tri-bar said:
When I ran the same Ground Control coil overs on my 2005 GT. , I ran 475 lbs front 150lbs rear with the Eibach sway bars 35mm front on full stiff, 22mm rear. BMR wield in Anti squat brackets, Polly bushings in stock lower control arms, Upper arm was Edlebrock's. Ground Control panhard bar. This set up was used for Autocross. The balance was dead on, turn in was sharp, no mid corner push, corner exit was floored using 275-35-17' Kumho's DOT race tires at the time. I won the Fresno ESP Championship in 2005 with that set up. Now with wider wheels and tires, I feel it would be much faster. Just my $.02

What struts/shocks did you run on this setup?
 

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