Shifting into 2nd and 3rd gear

[seca954]

Try giving just a hint of right pressure when you shift to 3rd after you let it self center. I have eliminated 3rd lock outs this way, by twisting my arm so my palm faces straight to the right I naturally apply a tad of right pressure and it goes right in. But I have not had the clutch stick to the floor issue, just the clutch stuck at half way issue. I haven't figured out an angle for the other sticky gears either, I was focusing on the worst one. I suspect the MGW would help with this type of lock out, though yours may be from a different source.

The stock shifter is sloppy but I agree that a change in technique may help your 2-3 shift. After I shift to 2nd I push hard forward with a open hand. I never take my foot off the gas. The motor starts to lose power somewhere around 6500. When the power drops off, the shifter just pops out. As soon as it pops out, press you clutch and it shoud go right to 3rd. I also bring my sitback forward so I'm not reaching for 3rd. It will feel like a long power shift. I really think the open palm has a lot to do with the shift as well.

 

[badasbullitt]

Did anyone see the review from Motor trend on the 2013 gt mustang? He was very against the shifting in it.

http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/coupes/1206_2013_ford_mustang_gt_premium_first_test/

 

[CaliMR]

I have always been an open palm shifter for 3rd, it does not work with my car. I need to apply right pressure, as if the centering spring is just a little off and only when it is at high rpm and warm. I get grinding sometimes coming out of 2, 3 or 4 as well.

Are you saying you shift at 6500 rpm and don't run it up to 7500? For the 2-3 shift even at redline it drops to the bottom of the power band when it goes into 3rd, at least it seems that way to me.

 

[Justin]

I have always been an open palm shifter for 3rd, it does not work with my car. I need to apply right pressure, as if the centering spring is just a little off and only when it is at high rpm and warm. I get grinding sometimes coming out of 2, 3 or 4 as well.

Are you saying you shift at 6500 rpm and don't run it up to 7500? For the 2-3 shift even at redline it drops to the bottom of the power band when it goes into 3rd, at least it seems that way to me.

just save up for the MGW then you dont have to do magic tricks to nail third anymore

 

[jeepinocala]

The stock shifter sucks there is no more about it your not going to get the stock shifter to do anything good it is stamped steel I can send you some pictures of it just send me a message with your email you will know right away the stock shifter is good for only one thing throwing away. No joke at all JUNK. Mgw is the fix for this car as for the shifter then the clutch assist spring removal and the clutch line upgrade that is just how it is.

 

[CaliMR]

My concern with the MGW is that I am having clutch issues as well, and I am worried that Ford will deny the repair once I figure out what it is (the dealer refuses to do anything about it) if I have an aftermarket shifter. Once I get it sorted out, I will be installing it.

 

[VoodooBoss]

I'd discuss that with the dealer that services your Boss. I had that conversation last week with the service manager at my dealer including the owner of the dealer who owns a Boss and is having shifting problems as well. They said don't worry about it adding a shifter won't void your warranty with us.

 

[CaliMR]

Yeah but you aren't dealing with my local dealers. They still refuse to fix the caliper that is squirting from the bleeder.

 

[gremlinsteve]

you have brake calipers squirting from the bleeders and they wont address it?

whats there reason?

steve

 

[CaliMR]

Because that is "the nature of aluminum calipers" though none of the other bleeders do it nor did they on the Brembos on my old Evo. A little moisture on the track happens sometimes, but this one is doing it around town. Also it was way too tight from the factory, I really had to muscle it to get it open when I bled the brakes. And it isn't that I over tightened it, I have done this many, many times on Brembos. I'll take it up with Ford once the oil consumption test is done, I have it in the service record.

To be fair, I don't think they are trying to **** me as they get paid even if it is warranty work, the service department is just completely clueless when it comes to anything but hybrid tauruses and escapes.

 

[gremlinsteve]

calipers are not supposed to be leaking fluids....thatwould mean air can and prolly is being introduced into the system.

 

[CaliMR]

Poke around the track and a lot of peoples' brakes leak a little. But not around town. I will be bringing it up with Ford corporate as I said, just trying to get some other stuff resolved first.

 

[gremlinsteve]

hmm. maybe a heat related issue? got a lil bit hot at some point in a race?

steve

 

[CaliMR]

Yeah I think it has to do with the different metals getting hot and expanding. But it should not be doing it on the street just futzing around. I just poked around google a bit and found a few other people with just the outside passenger bleeder leaking on Brembos. Weird. I may try replacing the bleeder next time I bleed the brakes just to see if there is an affect before going crying to Ford.

It isn't a ton of leakage, at the track there was visible drips and you can see the stains running down, but when just rolling around town it looks like this. It is not leaking out the top, the top is dry, it is around the sides. I suspect the original install was too tight and it damaged the threads but that is just a guess at this point. I have done at least 20 bleeds on Brembos and more when including regular brakes and have never seen a bleeder so hard I had to use my palm and grunt before.

 

[gremlinsteve]

yea. that might be the case. materials heating at different rates ect.

i pulled my pcv lines yesterday myself. there already coated with oil. so the pcv system is drawing oil just the same way the chevy and mopars do.

first mod for me is the catch can. its on the way already..

 

[CaliMR]

Let us know which one you go with and how it fits, it is on my short list of mods

 

[gremlinsteve]

i went with the moroso one.
i get a discount on them since im a vendor for them...lol

if yall need one i think after shipping there roughly 140 or so.



steve

 

[loco pantelonez]

One thing I have found to work for me is to shift with my fingers (hold the shifter like if you were going to pitch a baseball, but with 3 fingers instead of two) instead of shifting with my palm. I only see this as a work around until I get a T56 Magnum, gotta start saving though.

 

[CaliMR]

Sig pic looks like you're at the track before you got your plates (based on the windshield sticker). My kind of guy ;D


Or maybe PW Bosses are just so fast, they can't be kept off the track.

 

[seca954]

I have always been an open palm shifter for 3rd, it does not work with my car. I need to apply right pressure, as if the centering spring is just a little off and only when it is at high rpm and warm. I get grinding sometimes coming out of 2, 3 or 4 as well.

Are you saying you shift at 6500 rpm and don't run it up to 7500? For the 2-3 shift even at redline it drops to the bottom of the power band when it goes into 3rd, at least it seems that way to me.

I'm not saying you don't need a better shifter. Yes, I am saying I am shifting around 6500 rpm. Try this test. Put the car in 2nd gear. Accelerate at full throttle with your hand pushing forward on the shifter the whole time. I bet you it pops out of gear around 6500 rpm. It does that because the power drops off. Unless you've had the car tuned, you should not be shifting at 7500 rpm. The ignition cuts off at 7200 rpm.